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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Reason I ask is while the car is not running you can go thru the gears w/o using clutch, also while driving you can shift with no use of the clutch and sometimes after diving for a while you can't get the car to go into gear. Then when I return home the car has a burnt odor coming from that area. I've also had the car in the shop for tranny problems where the dealer did everything but replace the tranny. Any thought's or similar problem's ?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Well, Guess what ? I just picked it up from the Dealer and they said Clutch and Tranny were fine no Problem's Found. Go figure that one.
 

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Reason I ask is while the car is not running you can go thru the gears w/o using clutch, also while driving you can shift with no use of the clutch and sometimes after diving for a while you can't get the car to go into gear. Then when I return home the car has a burnt odor coming from that area. I've also had the car in the shop for tranny problems where the dealer did everything but replace the tranny. Any thought's or similar problem's ?
Here's my take:

Shifting with no clutch when not running: That's OK. I've rowed through the gears in a bunch of cars when they're parked. Usually have to push the pedal once to get things going, but once every blue moon you're able to do it without.

Shifting with no clutch when running, unable to shift after a while and a clutch/maybe oil smell with use: That's bad -- and indicative, to me, of a clutch that isn't fully disengaging even though the pedal has been released. Throwout bearing or sticky linkage are possible causes. What's happening is the clutch is still partially engaged, so you're essentially speed shifting at all times (which is what old school drag racers do for best ET -- they just tap the clutch while throwing the shifter). After a while -- everything heats up and starts to stink from the heat.

Definitely have the dealer look at it. Since your transmission is going to need a lot of work, and the clutch they did last time didn't solve the problem, I'd push for them to put a completely new transmission in.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
It's getting hard to find GM dealer's in my area worth a sh*t. That's ok, next time it starts acting up on me, I'm going straight to the dealer and tell the Tech to get in... My main reason for the dealer inspect was to check the clutch, which isn't even covered under warranty, it falls under the same category as brakes. And I told them if it needed a new clutch I was willing to put a new LS 7 or Spec 2 Clutch in it. And have them perform all the work. Now if it had been the Tranny the warranty would have kicked in. But none of that matter's now that I'm having an ATI Procharger installed. Got the best deal in North America. Where you ask ? http://www.jdsperformance.com/index.asp?initemuid=1163&fcmd=item&inmake=0 Ask for David.
 

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My main reason for the dealer inspect was to check the clutch, which isn't even covered under warranty, it falls under the same category as brakes.

BULL.. FU*%#N..$hit....who told you this?????? A clutch IS NOT a normal wear item like the brakes. It's part of of the transmission..... You got a 36 month 30K warranty. Don't let them pull that bull$hit on you.

Be prepared to go above them.
 

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BULL.. FU*%#N..$hit....who told you this?????? A clutch IS NOT a normal wear item like the brakes. It's part of of the transmission..... You got a 36 month 30K warranty. Don't let them pull that bull$hit on you.

Be prepared to go above them.
You may or may not be covered by warranty on the clutch. Clutch linings, like brakes and tires and several other items are listed under the Maintenance section of the warranty. If the repair or replacement is due to a manufacturing defect then it is warrantied. Now if the dealer determines that the clutch is gone due to not getting it adjusted when adjustment was called for or if the clutch needs repair from obvious driving abuse then it is not covered. For example if a GTO with only 5000 miles comes in for repair with a slipping clutch and nearly slick rear tires, I would hazard a guess that unless the dealer is a generous soul, the owner would have to eat the repairs.

Here's what is listed verbatim under the Maintenance Section: "All vehicles require periodic maintenance. Maintenance services, such as those detailed in the owner's manual are at the owner's expense. Vehicle lubrication, cleaning, or polishing are not covered. Failure of or damage to components requiring replacement or repair due to vehicle use, wear, exposure, or lack of maintenance is not covered."

"Items such as: Filters, Brake Pads/Linings, Clutch Linings, Keyless Entry Batteries, Audio System Cleaning, Coolants and Fluids, Wiper Inserts, Limited Slip Rear Axle Service, Tire Rotation, Wheel Alignment/Balance are covered only when replacement or repair is the result of a defect in material or workmanship." It went on to say that wheel alignment and balance are normal owner maintenance items after 7500 miles."

Most dealerships tend to lean over backward to help the customer with warranty work. Some are A**H**les and won't help. Here's hoping you have the former. -Jim
 

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I just got off the phone with my service adviser. I asked him...... "Is there any part of the clutch / transmission that is not covered under warranty?" His response was "NO, it's all covered." I then specifically asked... What about the clutch and the clutch linings, is the clutch linings and everything else covered? I was told, everything is covered under warranty, as long as we don't see any signs of abuse. I asked, your sure about this right... everything is covered unless it's been abused? Again he said yep, it's covered.

Take your car to the dealer and have them drive it, and have them tell you it's not covered, go above them and seek satisfaction.

Make damn sure you are confident it wasn't abused.
 

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i've shifted just about every car i've ever driven without using the clutch
as long as road speed and rpms line up it will go, don't use that as your only evidence of clutch failure. mine is brand new with only 3000 miles and i can shift without the clutch :)
 

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i've shifted just about every car i've ever driven without using the clutch
as long as road speed and rpms line up it will go, don't use that as your only evidence of clutch failure. mine is brand new with only 3000 miles and i can shift without the clutch :)

I've never experienced that, I have been driving stick for nearly 34 years.

Shifting without a clutch is known as an automatic clutch. I haven't heard of those since the VW Carmingia, or older VW bugs.

Grinding was and is prevalent on all the ones I ever had if the clutch wasn't depressed properly while shifting.
 

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Trust me when I say you can shift without the clutch. I drive Heavy trucks and you have to shift without the clutch and yes grinding will happen if wheel speed and engine rpms are not matched for the gear you are trying to shift into. I know your saying what the the heck do big trucks have to do with gto's. The difference with the gto is you dont have to match wheel speed with rpm's for desired gear because we have synchronizers. So if you are in your gto and you match everthing i mentioned above than yes you can and will be able to shift without the clutch
 

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I've never experienced that, I have been driving stick for nearly 34 years.

Shifting without a clutch is known as an automatic clutch. I haven't heard of those since the VW Carmingia, or older VW bugs.

Grinding was and is prevalent on all the ones I ever had if the clutch wasn't depressed properly while shifting.
Oh yeah, I've done it many, many times driving trucks, pickups and a 4 speed Dodge I used to own. With judicious use of the accelerator pedal and proper timing and it can be done smoothly with no grinding or clunking. To do it, when you are ready to make the shift, put a slight amount of pressure on the stick to take it out of gear, take your foot off the gas pedal and if the pressure you exerted is right, the stick will come out of the gear it was in. Now smoothly apply pressure on the stick for the next gear selection and when the input and output sections synchronize the stick will go into gear. Takes a bit of practice to get it right but once mastered it's quite easy.

You can even make a downshift with no clutch but the technique is a bit harder to learn. The difference is that you have to apply gas to speed the engine to the proper rpm before the gears syncronize and allow the downshift to be made.

Many drivers of big rigs never ever touch the clutch pedal when shifting the transmission or changing rear end ratios. Doing so will guarantee gear grinding and likely make an upshift or downshift impossible without coming to a stop.
 

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Agreed you can do that -- but in this case Dragon wasn't trying to match revs or anything like that. Plus the stinky clutch smell is an indication of partial engagment.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Gto Judge, I went over their head's. I have a meeting tomorrow with the Customer Relations Manager who advised he personally, will take my car to the Dealer and have it inspected inside and out. And that they would have to report all there findings to him. And that he would have what ever's wrong with the car fixed or replaced under warranty. I will post how this turn's out.
 
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