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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I need to move my drivers side door of my 65 GTO about 3/32" is there a way of doing it ?
Heres a pic of my problem the door scrapes the front Q panel just a little
I have the inside comletely stripped installing sound deading
I looked at the screws holding the hinges maybe loosed it a bit? Im hoping its possible otherwise Im thinking will have to grind it
 

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Without seeing it up close it's hard to say.
At the least here is the gap guide from the '67 Fisher Body Manual and this should apply to the '65 as well.
If the gap is equal between the fender and the door, you should be able to support the door and loosen the hinges so you can move the door slightly back towards the B pillar.
If your fender-to-door gap is not equal top to bottom then you may have a worn hinge.
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It may be possible to adjust the lower rear of the fender forward as well. Or a combination of both the fender and the door. There should be a bolt (or 2) beneath the lower rear of the fender that can be loosened, then you could try wedging the lower section forward and re-tightening the bolt/s. Your photo seems to show some damage to the door at the paint chips on the fender. It may just be the photo angle, but the gap seems to close more so at the paint chips the above and below. Some door metal work may also be needed.

Given that the door gaps are decent everywhere else...I would open the door, loosen the lower fender, use a washcloth folded a time or two or three or four, tuck it in the door-to-fender jam where it rubs, slowly close the door, watch to see if the fender presses forward, and then tighten the fender back up. You may get just what you need.

If your 65 is anything like my 67...door adjustment will be a pain with the front fender still on the car!

EDIT: If you think you have to do some grinding, that folded lip of the door is only about 0.04" thick. 3/32" is twice that. You will grind through and it would require welding it back up.
 

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Don't want to step on the thread but since a door adjustment question was asked maybe I can get some advice...my '65 passenger door falls slightly when opened and has to be slammed hard to close but closed the lines are good. So while open I lift up on the end of the door and can't feel any slack in the hinge. I have the door apart and vent windows out so thought it would be a good time to address this, what else should I be looking for? This problem caused me a broken pinky finger because after taking my wife and mother in law for a ride a few years ago she didn't get the door latched completely so I went and slammed it as someone distracted me and the pinky was hanging in the way, then it got infected...not a good time.
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Lovely photos! I'm tempted to compete, but my a finger accident was not car related...so I will refrain.

A door that drops once it is released from the door striker is a sure sign of worn hinges. I guess it is possible to adjust the hinges so the door hangs a bit higher and you would not be relying on the striker to raise it up to a good fit. A small amount of hinge wear can be adjusted out this way, but too much is just too much. The door striker purpose is not to align the door, but to keep it closed. Make sure your striker is not worn down too.

I would consider removing the striker and making hinge adjustments until the door closes with a good gap fit and then re-installing the striker. If you remove the striker, you will likely find that your good fit disappears.

Before you do anything...you could jack the car up and block it (our use jack stands) high enough that the tires are off the ground (at least the front tires)...then open the door and lift on it. A minor amount of hinge pin wear may not be noticeable with the suspension allowing the car to gradually lift up with the lifting of the door, but with the suspension out of the picture, hinge pin wear will be more noticeable.
 

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Ok good stuff, I just thought I would feel some movement up and down in the door if the hinges were worn but it feels solid. I'll try jacking it up and maybe get my lovely assistant to lift on the door while I watch the hinge ;) Thanks Droach for letting me butt into your thread (y)
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Without seeing it up close it's hard to say.
At the least here is the gap guide from the '67 Fisher Body Manual and this should apply to the '65 as well.
If the gap is equal between the fender and the door, you should be able to support the door and loosen the hinges so you can move the door slightly back towards the B pillar.
If your fender-to-door gap is not equal top to bottom then you may have a worn hinge.
View attachment 149921
I have removed the inside of the car and its pretty obvous the prior owner haad some body work done and it looks like the front fender is new, the alignment of the fender and door, drivers, is really bad it got more damaged when I jacked the car up and not noticing open the door and that did aloto the damage. They didnt align the fender well at all so I think tryto move the fender a bit is my best bet. Hadnt thought to do that. Ive watched utubes and they always says say take the fender off its a 100 times easier adjusting the door. I dont know about removing the door though. I was hoping something in the hinges is adjustable, like a house door.
Got anything on removing the front fender?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Lovely photos! I'm tempted to compete, but my a finger accident was not car related...so I will refrain.

A door that drops once it is released from the door striker is a sure sign of worn hinges. I guess it is possible to adjust the hinges so the door hangs a bit higher and you would not be relying on the striker to raise it up to a good fit. A small amount of hinge wear can be adjusted out this way, but too much is just too much. The door striker purpose is not to align the door, but to keep it closed. Make sure your striker is not worn down too.

I would consider removing the striker and making hinge adjustments until the door closes with a good gap fit and then re-installing the striker. If you remove the striker, you will likely find that your good fit disappears.

Before you do anything...you could jack the car up and block it (our use jack stands) high enough that the tires are off the ground (at least the front tires)...then open the door and lift on it. A minor amount of hinge pin wear may not be noticeable with the suspension allowing the car to gradually lift up with the lifting of the door, but with the suspension out of the picture, hinge pin wear will be more noticeable.
Jacking the car up is wht did all the damage. I jacked it up to do some other work and when I opened the door bang it is bad alignment from prior owner.
 
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