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I want to replace the stock speakers. I don't really want to change the HU just yet. So I looked at the wattage on the back of the stock speakers...

The FRONT pair and rear kick panel speakers say 30W-2 ohm on them.
The REAR DECK speakers say 50W-2ohm.

Now Im not an expert so do these numbers mean RMS or Peak Watts??? and what speakers would be good replacements for them?

Does anyone think something like 40-60W RMS 2 ways for front and maybe 60-100RMS mid range for the deck? IF the numbers mean RMS. or do i need peak wattage at these numbers? also most aftermarket speakers I've seen are 4 ohm... does this matter that much?

I just want to get rid of the distortion so I feel that beefing up the speakers a little will accomplish this. Im not looking for louder just want to get rid of the ****ty paper cone sound!
 

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Speakers are typically rated at continuous RMS watts. Most of the cheaper amps will rate at peak watts to artificially inflate the wattage, but that's another story. Chances are, any decent aftermarket speaker will handle the stock stereo and more.

A lot of the guys like the JBL GTO's, see
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-bGnyDcskgxn/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=410&I=109GTO607C

Aftermarket component speakers will require a little bit of extra wiring because of the crossover, but it's easy to do. Actually any good 2-ohm speaker will do, of the same size. Crutchfield has a good search engine for this. If you go with 4-ohm you will get a 3 dB drop in volume, and this may introduce distortion because you are driving the amp too much. So stick with 2 ohm unless you plan on replacing the head unit down the road.

Problem with aftermarket subs in the rear deck is, there aren't any aftermarket 2-ohm subs that will fit in the rear deck. You can go with 4 ohm and turn up the gain on your amp, or mount a 2-ohm 8 inch sub on top of the rear deck mounting ring. Or you can keep the stock rear deck speakers, they don't suck as bad as the other speakers.
 

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Speakers are typically rated at continuous RMS watts. Most of the cheaper amps will rate at peak watts to artificially inflate the wattage, but that's another story. Chances are, any decent aftermarket speaker will handle the stock stereo and more.

A lot of the guys like the JBL GTO's, see
JBL Grand Touring Series GTO607C 6-1/2" component speaker system at Crutchfield.com

Aftermarket component speakers will require a little bit of extra wiring because of the crossover, but it's easy to do. Actually any good 2-ohm speaker will do, of the same size. Crutchfield has a good search engine for this. If you go with 4-ohm you will get a 3 dB drop in volume, and this may introduce distortion because you are driving the amp too much. So stick with 2 ohm unless you plan on replacing the head unit down the road.

Problem with aftermarket subs in the rear deck is, there aren't any aftermarket 2-ohm subs that will fit in the rear deck. You can go with 4 ohm and turn up the gain on your amp, or mount a 2-ohm 8 inch sub on top of the rear deck mounting ring. Or you can keep the stock rear deck speakers, they don't suck as bad as the other speakers.
so are you saying that the component SET up front, the door and the dash tweet together draw a 2 ohm load from the radio? what is the rating of just the door speaker by itself? i want to replace just the front door speaker, leaving the dash tweeters, rear side panel speakers, and subs alone...
 
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