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· Registered
7,567 Posts
Let the hurt begin! More to follow

And you know about this, right?


NEVER break in a new or rebuilt engine with ceramic coated headers. Excessive heat will damage the coating and void the warranty.

When you break in a new camshaft, lifters, and piston rings, excessive heat is produced. Ignition Timing and carburetor jetting can also cause the engine to run hot.

Do not install your ceramic coated headers until after the engine is broken-in and properly tuned. We recommend you use an old set of headers or manifolds for engine break-in.

Curing Coated Headers

Most ceramic coated headers will come partially cured. The following break-in procedure will help to fully cure the coating. The same procedure will also help freshly painted headers.

  1. Install the headers according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
  2. Make sure the parking break is set and the vehicle is in neutral.
  3. Start the engine.Run it up to 1,500-2,000 rpm.
  4. When the engine reaches operating temperature, continue to run between 1,000-2,500 rpm for about 5 minutes.
  5. Turn the engine off and let it cool down.
  6. Repeat steps 3-6.
  7. Take the car for an easy drive (30-45 minutes).
  8. Turn the engine off and let it cool down.
  9. Repeat steps 3-5 again.
Why is this important?

Fully curing your header coating will help it last longer.

No coating is 100% guaranteed forever. All coatings will fade and eventually allow corrosion to form. How long the coating lasts depends on many factors. Individual results may vary.

· Registered
7,567 Posts
I have. Not sure your motor mounts are up to snuff. Do you have a clearance issue with crossmember to oil pan clearance?

1) At least two options come to mind. You can shim the mounts as 67 ragtop suggested. He has 326 but shouldn't make a difference. You can dent the tube allowing extra clearance for the wrap if you intend to go that route.
2) My brake lines are in the exact position as yours. One of the benefits of ceramic coating is heat transfer. However, it's not enough for the purposes of this conversation. A good wrap would definitely stop enough heat transfer.
3) I did not have to modify rag joint on mine. Hard to tell from your photo. It looks like you have over 1/2"+ clearance. That would be fine. a straight down photo would help. Shimming the motor mounts or better would solve two issues.
Do not use solid motor mounts. This puts a lot of strain on the block as the torque twists the casting. This in turn puts more pressure internally at the main caps near the mounts. This is one of the causes for a split block on high HP engines. The SD 455 engines had a beefed up oil pan rail just because of this issue.

The poly mounts can be a little stiff and I think I would go with the Ames engine mounts as they are said to be close to factory. Some mounts will cause the engine to sit lower because they are aftermarket. You might try the Ames mounts first before going with shims -which can be done.

As GrandTO mentioned, your driveline angle may be changed since true factory type engine/trans mounts are not available and aftermarket is what we mostly use. It may be easier to check once the engine/trans is in the car and driveshaft installed - you then measure driveshaft/pinion angles and adjust from there IF needed.

The brake line appears a little close to me and I would be concerned the header heat could have an affect on the brake fluid. You might want to use a short piece of thermal sleeve heat wrap used on spark plug wires over the brake line. You will have to slice the sleeve and wrap it and then use stainless steel zip ties.


· Registered
7,567 Posts
Install the bellshousing, trans, mount, and crossmember. You don't have to install clutch, linkage, shifter, etc.- just the basics. Then see if the pipe hits. With only the engine mounts, you won't have any idea of clearances as the engine will drop back when it hangs. Mock up the needed items and then you will also know if shimming will be needed or do anything for you.

If you want to check the angle of the engine, get the frame level front to back first. The AMA spec for the 1967 GTO engine installation angle is 4 degrees 42 minutes, or according to an online calculator = 4.7 degrees.
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