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I am getting my engine components back from the machine shop and had a question that may make a good thread.

Should you paint individual components or assemble the engine and then paint? What are the pros and cons? How were they painted from the factory? What specific things, if any, should be masked such as freeze plugs?

I know there is an element of personal preference, but looking for an overall feel from the group.
 

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I painted mine after it was put together minus the carbs, dissy, and pulleys. Also I taped off the intake runners of the heads and painted the intake manifold off the motor so I could paint the lifter valley pan. I then put the intake bolts through a piece of cardboard and painted every thing at the same time.
 

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I am going to paint my motor soon and have painted another motor before for my other car. I always have painted them separate. This way you know when you take it apart if needed there is no paint build up that will flake. I think this would be the preferred way. My 2 cents.
 

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I painted mine once it was assembled, this approach reduced the likelihood that I would scratch something else while assembling + allowed me to paint nuts and bolts in place. I attached a pic, I probably took around 300 photos of my restoration but my favorites are of the engine.
 

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Looks awesome Tony!
I'll be painting mine in a few months and wondered about the same paint procedure?!?
Especially where the intake manifold mounts to heads.
I should have kept them old intake gaskets with tape to act as a template.
 

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I shot mine with it masked and assembled, minus the intake (which I shot separately). I used Eastwood's ceramic 2k paint, mixed and shot through a gun. That would have allowed me to paint the intake bolt heads with a brush afterwards. I didn't actually DO that because I knew I would be removing/installing it several times when I later took it to the dyno, and the paint would get messed up then anyway.




Bear
 

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Did you tap your intake on the passenger side for a second sending unit or did they come that way from the factory in '69?
My intake has the flat spot but it isn't drilled and tapped.
I thought about doing it so I could have the idiot light and the mechanical gauge, is that for both or does something else go in that?
 

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Just another way to achieve a gauge and idiot light together and much easier is to get speedhut gauges, Made in Utah, they are pricey...but nothing good is cheap and nothing cheap is good...

Anyway Speedhut let;s you have both and the idiot light is high and low and set by you at the mark, temp, volts etc. so on my temp with my 160 degree thermostat, I set my low idiot light at 140 and my high at 180...

volts I set high at 15.2 and low at 13.8....in between no light..and it is easily changeble by a button....Hookup is very easy, the gauges glow completely in the dark and you can have any custom wording put on the gauge...you can see I choose blue to match the car and had LeMans put on the gauge face...

I like gauges and idiot lights, they warn you if something is amiss...they won't let you forget to look....Vacumn gauge is period not speedhut

just another way to do it...they come in all sizes as well:thumbsup::thumbsup: well....:thumbsup::thumbsup:
 

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Those look very nice, I already bought a set of Greenlines for temp, volts and oil pressure.
I have both lights for charging and oil I just need a place for the sender for temp.
I am trying to keep the original look so I am debating whether I should drill and tap that spot for the gauge and put the sender in the original spot for the idiot light.
I have a Pontiac vacuum gauge but one didn't come on the car and I have no console to mount it to, automatic with shifter on the tree and I don't want to drill the tunnel to mount it.
I went with the S/W Greenlines because even though they are not original equipment they are period correct aftermarket add ons.
I like the idiot lights because as you say they alert you to look at the gauges if they come on.
 

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I have seen guys mount the RPM or vac gauge on the column with just a clamp,..kinda old school period and you would not have to drill the column...seems like you could drill the intake as described and it would work just fine....

I have also seen some cars, may not have been pontiacs that have a sending unit tap in in the thermostat housing, so you could get a housing like that and use one sending unit in it I suppose...not sure how good they were but may work
 

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My original Tstat housing was pretty pitted and warped, I just replaced it yesterday and no more leaks so I am not going to mess with it.
I will eventually drill and tap the manifold but for now I have been working on this car for so long it is time to drive it.
After fixing the rocker problem and tweaking the timing it runs great and the temp only goes up to 200 and that is pushing it going uphill.
I am going to just sell the vacuum gauge, I don't really want it on the column and I would rather pass it on to someone who needs it.
 

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That is the ticket..to get it out and drive it....you can tweak those little things along the way..and regular driving keeps everything lubricated and charged up and you get a feel for the car as well when anything changes......

They are meant for fun.....so now is your time for cruising!
 

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I have about 200 miles on it making short runs @ 6,000 feet fixing problems and dialing it in and now it is time to take it down to sea level and run it on the freeway and maybe some of Route 66 once I get to Hesperia.
I will order the sending unit from Ames so I have it on hand when I am ready to drill and tap the manifold.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Hello All,

I wanted to post this so no one makes the same mistake I did.

I started this thread a while back when I was planning how to paint my engine. I read in some of the other threads that the paint on the exhaust ports on the heads and the exhaust cross-over on the intake manifold burn off over time. Based on that I wanted to see if I could head off that problem, so I started with my intake manifold.

I purchased VHT-SP100 High Temp Primer. VHT used to have the right Pontiac color for a 67, but apparently no more, so I was forced to mix products. I am using the PlastiKote 227 I purchased from Ames as the color top coat.

I figured I could use the VHT on the intake manifold and the heads only and then just paint the rest of the engine with only PlastiKote.

VHT has some specific instructions on how to cure their paints. First, you paint with two light coats, and then a medium coat or two. Once dried, you heat treat the part. First, at 250 degrees for 30 minutes, cool for 30 minutes, 400 for 30 minutes, cool for 30 minutes, and then 650 for 30 minutes. These are their instructions for both their primer AND their top coat.

Because I wasn't using VHT as the top coat, I called VHT and asked them if I was supposed to heat treat before the top coat or apply the top coat first and heat treat everything. They told me to apply the top coat and heat treat everything.

The 250 went fine and looked great. 400 did as well. It wasn't until I tried to get the temperature up to 650 that things went wrong. I was able to get my barbecue up to about 600 degrees so I left the manifold in for a little longer, about 5 or 10 minutes.

When I opened the barbeque, my intake manifold was gold. It is really a cool look, but not what I was shooting for.

The PlastiKote says it resists temperatures up to 500 degrees and I guess they mean it.

I plan to sand it down with 320, per both the VHT and PlastiKote instructions and just try shooting another couple of coats of PlastiKote over it and see if it sticks.

If anyone has any experience with this and thinks this is a bad plan, let me know.
 

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