Pontiac GTO Forum banner

1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I am rebuilding my 400 6.6 from my 69 GTO. Original engine.
Im researching and ordering a rebuild kit for the engine, everything included. The problem is cant seem to find a kit that includes the crankshaft. So I need to know that the original stroke should be so it and the kit wont clash. Ive rebuilt everything on a engine multiple times just never the entire engine itself.
If anyone has any links to kits, sites, or any helpful knowledge it would greatly be appreciated. I plan to post some pictures on the progress.

I also need to know that the clearances should be.

Sorry if this seems somewhat unnecessary, you'd be amazed at how useless google can be for such detailed info.

69 GTO, 400 4bbl

Kyle
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
128 Posts
u could try northern auto parts they have name brand parts and good prices
i think i would keep an eye on your crank (get it reconditioned localy)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
No the rod bearings overlapped each other and ground it down a pretty significant amount. If I were to get it refurbished that would be taking off alot of material, and I mean alot.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
163 Posts
My advice if you're rebuilding the engine to include boring the cylinders, pistons and crank to match, would be to purchase a complete rotating assembly for the motor. If your budget allows. Several reputable Pontiac suppliers sell those assemblies including Kens Machine Shop , Kauffman Racing, Pacific Performance Racing (PPR), and others. I bought mine off ebay from CNC Motorsports and it's a solid performance assembly.

As for clearances, they are available in the Pontiac service manual (you should definitely have one of these for any resto... cheap to buy on ebay) and more performance oriented info is available in Jim Hand's book "How to Build Max Performance Pontiac V8's" , another "MUST HAVE" resource for building a great motor that costs less than $20. Specific optimal clearance numbers will depend upon the equipment you're using, oil your running and vehicle usage (street/strip, race only, street only, or any combo of the above).
Most engine "rebuild kits" are a set of gaskets and such, if you're replacing hardware you will likely need multiple items in order to get the job done, i.e., a rotating assembly, gasket kit, and any other hardware items you want for the build (distributor, head studs, cam, rockers, lifters, etc...).
Some basic engine info is available on P-Dude's website, original stroke for a 400 was 3.75 with a 4.12 piston and 6.625 rod. Best bet is to get an entire kit if it fits your budget, if not, you'll need to use stock parts. No worries though, you can find most of those parts either completely reconditioned or in a condition that your local machine shop can work for a minimal charge. These parts can be found on the for sale section of this forum and at the PY forum as well.

Your challenge is to decide what your real goals are, and how much you have to spend.

If you have more specific questions, please ask. There are a lot of very knowledgeable folks here that have been through most of this before (I'm not one of them, but I have benefitted from their advice!). Good luck with your project.

And I agree with Rukee, if you're starting over -- STROKE IT!:shutme
Dave
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
I have had nothing but good expierence with butler performance. Gave me great advice through some sticky problems. Service was also excellent. Got what I needed when they said I'd get it. Worth a phone call. would not hurt.
 

·
64-67 Expert
Joined
·
8,569 Posts
As much as I love "original", I have to agree with the stroker crank. If I needed a new crank, that's what I'd do. More power, better drivability, all at usable rpm....there is no downside. It's a big improvement in every way.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
112 Posts
When I rebuilt my 455 I purchased a new crank from Jim Butler. I reason for this was that I was increasing the hp by 150. With all of the other money spent a good parts I just did not want to use a 40 year crank that could cause a problem and destory a expensive engine. The one that I purchased had 20% more steel in it then the original cranks. I felt that it was just good insurance.
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top