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I use it in my Nova with a ZZ4 350 and it’s really a great product. No more overheating problems nor worry of corrosion issues as it does not interact between the steel block and aluminum heads. Never worries of it boiling over either and it’s safe for the environment when it does have to be eventually changed. It’s expensive but worth it especially if you don’t drive the car often.
 

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Like all things, you will find someone who swears by it and another who has a bad experience.

Reading the reviews, the stuff has too many "Cons" versus "Pros" and some of them in my book would suggest I would never use the stuff. In no particular order:

From - https://greengarageblog.org/17-waterless-coolant-pros-and-cons

5. There is a conversion cost to consider with going waterless. When you’re converting from a traditional coolant, however, then your system must be purged. Over 97% of the original coolant must be removed from the system for the waterless coolant to be sufficient. If you do not achieve that rate of success, then you lose the corrosion-resistance benefit. The cost of purging the system varies per location, but it typically falls into a range between $250 to $400.

4. Engines typically run hotter at the cylinder heads. Although the overall process creates a cooler engine for many vehicle owners, using a waterless coolant does make an engine run hotter at the cylinder heads. For a high-performance engine, the issue could change conditions by over 100°F. The stabilized coolant temperatures are increased by at least 30°F when the conversion takes place as well when compared to a 50/50 or traditional coolant. You’re also faced with an inhibitor disposition on aluminum surfaces, which may be problematic for some radiators.

9. The fan on your vehicle may start operating continuously. Because waterless coolant changes the temperature profile of your vehicle, some owners may find that their fan triggers on continuously because of the heat at the engine. Although the waterless coolant provides better protection, you may need to reprogram the temperature settings of your fan to prevent this issue. Some owners may also change their engine timing to prevent knocking after a switch to this product and look at the specs of their water pump since the viscosity of waterless coolant is a little different.

6. Waterless coolant may reduce your horsepower rating. When a full conversion to waterless coolant occurs, owners notice a small dip in the horsepower possible from their engine. Some high-performance engines see a drop of 5% or more. At the same time, the fuel octane requirement for the engine increases by up to 7 points, which further reduces performance if a shift in gasoline quality does not happen.

2. There are availability concerns to think about with waterless coolant. If a slow leak occurs with your vehicle, then you can make it home easy enough before repairing the issue. Just stop at any store, purchase replacement coolant, then make sure your reserves never get too low. That option disappears for you when using waterless coolant. Availability is not as widespread as traditional antifreeze or coolant options because only authorized service providers have the product. Adding water eliminates the benefits of going waterless too.

8. There are flammability concerns in high-performance settings. “Only dealt with that stuff one time,” is an observation written on a tech talk forum about waterless coolant. “Guy dumped it on the starting line and made a full pass that was a 3-hour clean-up. Worst stuff I have ever cleaned and extremely slippery.” There are also flammability issues reported with waterless coolant when exposed to high-heat situations on racetracks and other high-performance areas. Although reviews on this potential disadvantage are mixed, the issue should be approached with caution at the very least.


This is from another forum and mirrors the above site in that the Evans coolant will get considerably hotter in temps before ever boiling over.

"(8) High temperatures. In long, hard races where the terrain is muddy, it is possible that mud can get packed into the radiators and restrict airflow and engine cooling. Regular coolant is going to boil out. If you don’t let the engine cool down or refill it, you will damage the engine. With waterless coolant, the engine will continue to run fine with restricted airflow, although it is possible that the plastic parts in the cooling system, such as the pump impeller or fittings holding the radiator hoses together, can melt. If these parts are plastic on your machine and you ride in extreme conditions for long periods of time, replace the plastic parts with metal ones.

LOL. Re-read that one folks. :yesnod: "Regular coolant is going to boil out. If you don’t let the engine cool down or refill it, you will damage the engine." OK, I get that statement. BUT, what do you think happens when you run your engine that hot that it would normally boil over? A 50/50 anti-freeze mix with a 15 lb radiator cap boils over at around 265 degrees. So the Evans stuff will successfully surpass that temperature without boiling over - OK, I get it. But what do you think will happen to your favorite Pontiac engine running it 265-300 degrees?

The partial answer is already given, "although it is possible that the plastic parts in the cooling system, such as the pump impeller or fittings holding the radiator hoses together, can melt." LOL, and that's it?? At those temps, all I can hear in my mind is the death rattle of cylinder detonation as those temps. Oil temps soar causing the oil to thin waaaay out and I can only imagine how hot those pesky rod bearings will get. Blown head gasket or even heads warping comes to mind as well.

So the stuff may be great for enduro racing where synthetic oils, tight bearing clearances, oil coolers, aluminum blocks & heads, etc. are designed to handle and survive in such an environment, but for the average street Pontiac engine, boiling over may be what saves the engine because most will pull over immediately and evaluate the situation, rather than not pay attention to the gauges (if you have one) and note the smell of melting plastic parts or wonder where all that engine detonation came from just before all the rod started knocking.

My opinion on it, but I would not use it in any of my engine builds, or cars. :thumbsup:
 
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