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RIP (12/27/60-7/18/15)
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767 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I'd like to thank everyone in this wonderful forum for the INVALUABLE assistance and patients provided.
No one ever called me a dumb ass lol
BUT..............how in the heck...............
do ya get the exhaust manifolds on?
the passenger side appeared to be the easiest........NOT
do i have to lift the motor?
thanks as always
 

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RIP (12/27/60-7/18/15)
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767 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
nope, on the passener side i removed the oil filter bracket but the manif is hitting the edges of the bell housing:shutme:shutme
 

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RIP (12/27/60-7/18/15)
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767 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Do I indeed need to raise the motor to get them on?
Should I remove the tranny support bolts?
can I somehow do one side at a time without having to remove both motor mount bolts at the same time?
thanks as always
 

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Super Moderator
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5,741 Posts
Do I indeed need to raise the motor to get them on?
Should I remove the tranny support bolts?
can I somehow do one side at a time without having to remove both motor mount bolts at the same time?
thanks as always
Do the passenger side first. Remove the long motor mount bolt just on that side, then use a jack to lift that side of the motor up to get room. Put the manifold on and start the bolts (you don't have to tighten them yet). Drop the passenger side, re-install the motor mount bolt, then repeat the same process on the drivers side (remove the bolt, lift, install, drop and re-install the bolt). Once you're happy everything looks good and is lined up, tighten up the exhaust manifold bolts on both sides.

You shouldn't have to loosen the tranny mount or anything else --- there's enough give in the rubber mounts to let things move enough.

Tip: Put a goodly amount of anti-seize compound on all the manifold bolts, and everthing that bolts to the manifolds (like the head pipes). You'll be glad you did if you ever have to remove them again.

Bear
 

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RIP (12/27/60-7/18/15)
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767 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
thanks Bear.
took me longer to assemble and disammemble the hoist then to get them both in...
 

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RIP (12/27/60-7/18/15)
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767 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
On the passenger side ex manif, the second bolt from the rear, the roundness of the metal is so close to the hole I cannot get a bolt in it. However the hole is bigger than the others. I tried cutting one of the 3/8'' bolts really short, with the idea of inserting it in "sideways' that didn't work either.
I may be able to put a stud down thru the top of the head to ex manif hole and nut the bottom.
Has anyone dealt with this?
thanks as always
 

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659 Posts
Unbolt the manifold completly and put that bolt in the hole all the way engaged. Then bolt the manifold back to the engine by wrenching that particular bolt in to pull the manifold into place.
 

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3,376 Posts
On the passenger side ex manif, the second bolt from the rear, the roundness of the metal is so close to the hole I cannot get a bolt in it. However the hole is bigger than the others. I tried cutting one of the 3/8'' bolts really short, with the idea of inserting it in "sideways' that didn't work either.
I may be able to put a stud down thru the top of the head to ex manif hole and nut the bottom.
Has anyone dealt with this?
thanks as always
If you got it to take a couple threads at that angle, you probably screwed up the threads. Pull the manifold back off and elongate the slot in the manifold so it will start straight. Threadchase the head to make sure the threads are good, hopefully you didn't tighten it enough to bugger the threads. Angled bolts don't "pull" straight.
 

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RIP (12/27/60-7/18/15)
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767 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
It's not taking thread at that angle. The bolt simply wont go in.
it wont go in unbolted either.(went in from the other side while off just fine)
grrrrrrrrrrrrr lol
 

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64-67 Expert
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8,561 Posts
What 68GTO4Spd said is what I've run into. You need to have one or more bolts inserted into the manifold BEFORE you fit the manifold in place in the car. Once in the car, you can tighten it down. Not done this way, the bolts are "too long" to slide into the manifold bosses. A lot of in-car cylinder head swaps present this exact same clearance issue. Don't force anything, and don't pur a wrench on a bolt that "won't start". If it won't start, something is wrong.
 

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It's not taking thread at that angle. The bolt simply wont go in.
it wont go in unbolted either.(went in from the other side while off just fine)
grrrrrrrrrrrrr lol
Hmm did you try using a slightly shorter bolt with the manifold off? That's odd, might have to grind or switch bolt styles as suggested.
 

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It's not taking thread at that angle. The bolt simply wont go in.
it wont go in unbolted either.(went in from the other side while off just fine)
grrrrrrrrrrrrr lol
You might try a different type bolt. There are some with 12-point heads, and also "allen" heads whose heads are just a little smaller than a regular 6-point head. That might be just enough to allow it to make that turn. Check on bolts that are meant to be used with headers. I know mine have 12-point heads on them that are very small, probably to address the same problem you're having. As a last resort, if you've got a bench grinder, you can carefully grind a chamfer into the threaded end of the bolt that might be enough to let it go around the corner and start - be very careful though, you don't want to make the bolt so "short" that there aren't enough threads engaging the head to hold, causing you to strip out the threads in the head.

Bear
 
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