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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
just purchased an easwood company tool to roll my rear fender lips to fit 285. it should be here within a week. do you guys have any pointers to do the job right the first time? i hear i have to heat it up pretty good so the paint does not crack.

here is a link with instructions on how to do it.
http://www.rollyourfender.com/instruction.html

i made a cut in the middle of the fender on the lip, seen in pic below. by cutting the lip halfway, so it does not bind in the middle when you roll the fender, and this way the lip will be able to roll more without much pressure on the fender body and will lower the pressure on paint cracking.


so here is the deal, i will just use it for 2 rear wheels, if someone is interested i can sell this tool to them for 220 after i'm done. i paid 250, so you save some money as well.
eastwood company fender lip roller tool for sale
 

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Discussion Starter #3
if you were closer to me i would rent it to you, but paying shipping and then once again if i sell it to someone, too much hassle and i will be loseing more money.

this way if you get it, you can sell it to someone else and you will end up spenging less money than by renting it.
 

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Don't heat the paint up too much or you'll blister it. Really nice and warm like it was sitting in the sun is good. Don't try to do too much at once. Adjust the roller angle in very small increments and roll back and forth a few times before adjusting it some more. Slightly rewarm before the next pass. After getting my car up on jack stands and getting both wheels off it took me about 45 minutes to do both sides.

I would not try to take it flat. The farther you go the more you run the risk of pushing the fender out, cracking the paint and wrinkling things. You want to get it rolled between the 10 o'clock and 2 o'clock position on the fender. Getting the lip up on about a 45* angle should be enough. You can test the fit by taking off your lower shock bolt and removing the springs. Put the wheel on and articulate the wheel up and down to check for static rub. As the wheel goes up it tips in so that's why you don't need to flatten the lip.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
cool, thank you, i will keep this in mind. the last thing i wanna do is damage the outside fender. i was also thinking of making one cut in the middle with a sheet saw, this way it will roll easier and further without much pressure. and, the lip will not wrinkle and push the fender out. i think it's a good idea, what say you.
 

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cool, thank you, i will keep this in mind. the last thing i wanna do is damage the outside fender. i was also thinking of making one cut in the middle with a sheet saw, this way it will roll easier and further without much pressure. and, the lip will not wrinkle and push the fender out. i think it's a good idea, what say you.
I like the thinking but I wouldn't do it. You may find that it will make a crease on the fender where the cut is as there would be a weak spot there when you apply outward pressure. Just take your time and don't over do it and you'll do fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
i am just waiting on the tool to arrive now, should be here today. i updated the first post with a pic and i did make a small cut, half of the lip. the job seems like it's going to be an easy one and shouldn't take much time either.

looking at the toe, it seems like it's adjustable, not sure if this is the oem camber adjuster or it came with the vehicle. if someone can please look and see if they have the same bolt i would appriciate it. if i need further camber adjustment, i hope not but will see after the lip has been rolled, it should be very simple. pics below.

 

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That's the toe adjuster. I see you did it anyways. I'd watch the outside of the fender very closely when you're doing it. After you start to "roll it up" it's going to push outward on the fender. You've created an uneven resistance with a weak point in the middle by doing that cut. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Ladies and gents, the lips are gone, not 45 degrees as some of you state, but flat out. no damage to the outside, the paint seems ok. i expected to be a lot easier. took about a bit more than 2 hours for both wheels. highly satisfied. dont have time to test it yet......

But the tool is for sale, anyone interested let me know 220 shipped. save some money. no damage to the tool at all. few marks and scratches on the roller but it seems like it's in brand new condition.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
also if you want the lip flat out, i made 4 5 cuts on the lip. you see if you dont cut it, there needs to be more pressure on the lip, and another thing is you can not get the lip flat out without cutting it because the steel will not strech where it arches on the fender. you can only roll it so much.
 

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I'm glad it worked out for you altho cutting kind of takes away one of the reasons for rolling instead of just grinding the lips off. I hope you carefully prep and paint the cuts so it doesn't rust.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
yeah i'll do paint and clear coat from inside. no big deal as i am getting the full space clearance. i am waiting for lovells springs to show. i figured since i have the car up in the air and wheels off i might as well change springs. i wonder though if i should get the camber adjusting kit from lovells. what do you think? did you mess with camber on yours, did you have to adjust it.

you are running 285, what type of springs you have on them and are they stock height or lowered? are you haveing any rubbing issues while driving, people in the back, cornering, gas paddle to the floor, and so on?
 

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My 285s are probably about the same width as your 295s. Nittos run narrow tread widths. They're on 9" wide wheels with the offset adjusted to +55mm. I have Lovells 20mm drops all around (-.78"). All of my bushings are replaced with poly ones including the inner and outer control arms and my rear camber is -1.4º or less .The fenders are mildly rolled and I get no rubbing under any conditions, even on hard cornering or compressions to the bump stops.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
hey thanks svede, great info. i guess the camber does miracles for these cars.

ok today, i took the closer look at the driver side and spent more time under it.after one and a half hour of careful measuring, i was able to tuck the driver side inside the fender lip and is now same as the passanger side. i jacked the control arm all the way up as possible and the wheel tucks inside the fender and turns with 3mm to spare, tire away from the fender body of the car. this is beautiful, i highly doubt that the tire will ever get that far inside with lovells spring, stock height, but figured safety never hurts. by thursday i should have the car on the road and test drive it.

my goal is to have the wheel hub shaved, not sure if this is a good idea or not, but i'm researching it. with 6mm shaved, i have a feeling i could tuck 305 nittos, and especially if they are running a bit smaller than other brands 305, because i have good inch away from the control arm.
 

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My 285s are probably about the same width as your 295s. Nittos run narrow tread widths. They're on 9" wide wheels with the offset adjusted to +55mm. I have Lovells 20mm drops all around (-.78"). All of my bushings are replaced with poly ones including the inner and outer control arms and my rear camber is -1.4º or less .The fenders are mildly rolled and I get no rubbing under any conditions, even on hard cornering or compressions to the bump stops.
What tires do you have?I'm thinking of getting some 285 Star Specs for the rear when I buy some aftermarket wheels.
 

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What tires do you have?I'm thinking of getting some 285 Star Specs for the rear when I buy some aftermarket wheels.
I have Firestone Firehawk Wide Ovals. Firestone is now owned by Bridgestone. They tested very well at TireRack and bested tires like the BFG KDW and had both superior wet and dry handling. Unfortunately they discontinued the 285/40/17 size last year. I'd probably go with a 275/40/17 Potenza RE760 Sport next time
 

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Discussion Starter #19
i may need new rubber in the rear soon. what would be the best bang for the buck? i dont want to get something pricy and burn it down in no time.

all my work is done, all i am waiting for are the springs...hurry up brown man....285 no issues, now i am considering 295 for my new rubber, but i will have to get the camber adjustments as i will need a slight negative camber adjusted so they fit.

hey svede, where did you get the camber adjustments from? do you have a pic of the setup, so i can see them. i am wondering how they fit underneath and the way they are installed.
 

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The camber came by way of fixed Super Pro poly inner and outer control arm bushings. If you're going for high negative camber AND not be burning up rubber you're pulling in 2 different directions. A little helps with handling on corners but too much will wear the tire out prematurely. I believe -1.7 is the maximum recommended and a bit less is better. Remember when the car launches the back end squats and the car rides even harder on the inside rubber and you get less road traction. The adjustable camber bushings (which are usually used to help create LESS negative camber) have had issues with staying tightened and there has been anecdotal stories of them breaking the ears they mount on I believe due to the canted stress they put on them. I wouldn't want them from what I've seen and heard. Also remember that tires go up and down when driving and the camber is changing in any movement. A "narrow" 295 will fit but it will take the right wheel setup and good control of the arm. Nittos are a good value street tire and they run narrow too so a 295 will be like a 285 tread and should fit fine if everything else is right. .
 
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