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Discussion Starter #1
Purchased a 2006 GTO M6 about a month ago and decided to take it to the strip for the first time with some friends. I've never been to a drag event before so I had a damn good time just spectating let alone getting on the line. Had the jitters for the first run (see below) but after that it would have taken a bulldozer to remove the smile off my face.

Passes made on street tires, quick spin of the wheels before staging, attempted to launch from about 2200 rpm but I dunno how well I accomplished that. I'm running Kooks LTs, high flow cats, AEM intake and a GMM short throw.

First run: Since I kept turning the car on and off moving through the line, when I finally pulled onto the line I forgot to turn off traction control :eek: So many things going on in my head for the first run it figures I'd look over something simple. On the positive side, it was my best reaction time out of the three runs (0.626) and strangely enough my fastest overall speed (105.86mph). :confused

Second run: Spun bad off the line and significant wheel hop in second, decent shifts through the pull. Still managed to crush the soul of a GT mustang with a few bolt-ons.

Third Run: Terrible reaction time (1.039s) Had my mind focused on keeping traction off the line, pulled pretty well but had a garbage shift into third. Still pretty happy as this run gave me my best time. :cool

Even with the differences in R/T; take off error; and shifting issues all my runs had almost the same exact top speed (105.86, 105.31, 105.77) Are these wheel spin issues? Considering the first run was my fastest and had traction control on...

First, Second, and Third runs listed in order.

 

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IE,
I have no doubt with a few more runs under your belt, and after reading a few tips from some of the more experienced guys here, you will be in the 2.0s in your short, and in the 87 mph range in the 1/8, which should equate to near 110/13.0. I assume you have a tune, either handheld or dyno?
I went to Baytown last Friday after work in mine and turned the best times/speed ever. I was running mainly in the 13.6 to 13.8 range, installed a CAI and a diablosport tune and got into the 13.1s. That is why I say with the LTs, you should do well. It is now in your hands, practice that launch, the rest is history.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I had a feeling the car may have been tuned prior to my ownership! Thank you for confirming my suspicions. The only downside is that with the addition of the catback I'm looking for, there aren't too many more bolt-on upgrades to go for. :rolleyes:

My research has pointed out larger TB, MAF, fuel injectors or TB spacers aren't really necessary without a forced induction set up or cam which are not going to happen for me anytime in the next few years. I have heard the same for most of the porting jobs finished by members, (intake manifold, heads). Maybe everything together shows noticeable gains but not by themselves is what I'm saying.

I'm thinking 275s in the back could be a worth while investment, maybe the BMR subframe connectors for some added rigidity in cornering (I like to keep my speed up when heading on or off the freeway, can definitely feel the body roll).
 

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It's a lot of fun, isn't it? Strive for 2.0 60fts at a minimum. It's not just technique but knowing what tire psi to run as well. The stiff sidewall performance tires "may" give better 60fts if the psi is in the mid-30s (this is the case for the 20" F1 Supercars).

I've done the off/on cycling as well, pushing the car, etc. A lower temp thermostat usually helps if it applies to the LS2. Will the tuner allow to adjust for the cooling fans to come on sooner?
 

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GTOAA 04-06 Technical Advisor
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For your 3 times down the track you are doing GREAT! You can see all of the times getting better each run. Right now just keep practicing. Try not to make too many changes to your car and keep working on it. Drag radials can come later as well as a bunch of other stuff.
I would recommend you keep a log of each run and comments. Do it at the track because you will not remember when you get home. Welcome to the world of drag racing.

Now I have been drag racing for many years. I have a mountain of passes under my belt, something close to 1000. I used to campaign a KZ1000 in Jr Pro Stock and then a ZX-750 Turbo in C-Stock Turbo back when NMRA was still in business. I was the speed record holder in that class. Never could get the time. I even raced the time record holder a few times. I have had my current GTO down the track 72 times. Here is what I have found works best for me. I launch the same as I did on street tires, 3,000rpm and a fast slip, not a dump. Here is my best when stock:
(RT/60'/330'/8th time/8th speed/1000'/end time/end speed)
0.137 2.009 5.706 8.722 81.91 11.314 13.512 102.65
and after a few mods
0.014 1.680 4.906 7.468 97.84 9.566 11.419 123.62
 

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Holy smokes, GTOJer!
A "FEW" mods. Please tell me what I have to do to get those times!!
Is your car a daily driver, or close?
 

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decent times, like you - my first runs i kept leaving TC on as well, i got to a [email protected] first day of racing my GTO (NC low elevation)
you have intake/exhaust opened up pretty good, if im not mistaken i doubt your stock pcm settings are giving you enough fuel now, i'd suggest a tune and you might see some improvement in the traps.
i read an article where a wrx had intake installed then separately exhaust installed, both made about equal gains(say 15hp), but once they installed both together, it made less gains than just 1 of either exh/int(~8hp) until they tuned it then it made about double gains(~25), as to be expected. now i know our cars arent wrx's but i think a tune would definitely help you out. anyone else have a little more knowledge about this?
just my .02
good times. keep it up
 

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For your 3 times down the track you are doing GREAT! You can see all of the times getting better each run. Right now just keep practicing. Try not to make too many changes to your car and keep working on it. Drag radials can come later as well as a bunch of other stuff.
I would recommend you keep a log of each run and comments. Do it at the track because you will not remember when you get home. Welcome to the world of drag racing.

Now I have been drag racing for many years. I have a mountain of passes under my belt, something close to 1000. I used to campaign a KZ1000 in Jr Pro Stock and then a ZX-750 Turbo in C-Stock Turbo back when NMRA was still in business. I was the speed record holder in that class. Never could get the time. I even raced the time record holder a few times. I have had my current GTO down the track 72 times. Here is what I have found works best for me. I launch the same as I did on street tires, 3,000rpm and a fast slip, not a dump. Here is my best when stock:
(RT/60'/330'/8th time/8th speed/1000'/end time/end speed)
0.137 2.009 5.706 8.722 81.91 11.314 13.512 102.65
and after a few mods
0.014 1.680 4.906 7.468 97.84 9.566 11.419 123.62
Did you get your block resleeved, or are you running a crank over 4"?
 

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GTOAA 04-06 Technical Advisor
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Did you get your block resleeved, or are you running a crank over 4"?
Not meaning to hijack the OP, but....

The block is a 2004 LS1 iron truck block with a bore of 4.030 and an Eagle crank with a stroke of 4.00. So engine is a 408.

I went through some pain with the first block. While running nitrous at the track, the nut and washer came off (it had been on for over a year) and got sucked in. As I am sure you know the airflow inside our manifolds, the washer went right in #7, the nut stayed in the manifold. Well, this beat the crap out of my P&P 243 head and crushed the land on 2 places on the piston. So apart it came. I fixed the head but the piston was toast. I ordered a piston and pin, stuck the pin in the freezer and heated the piston. It assembled just fine. (As a side note, the UPS man came just before the pizza man at 1:00 PM. While eating lunch the parts cooled or heated. We were on a test drive at 8:00PM. There were 5 of us.) OK, so everything was just fine. A few weeks later when heading to the track in a large group, I was told that when I shifted, the car would let out a puff of smoke. I figured it was a bad valve stem seal. HA! The following weekend the club was having a dyno day so on the way there, I exercised the nitrous system. Well, it purged but I couldn't feel it kick in and I was running a 150 shot. So I did it again, and had a huge pop that destroyed my air box and MAF screen and blew the whole inlet system right off AND started clanging bad. So we shoved it all back on and limped home, about 2 miles away. Got home and tore it apart to find a huge groove in the #7 cylinder wall. Seems the LS1 piston and rods only like being assembled one time and you are supposed to buy the rod and piston as an assembly. The pin had walked out of the piston and into the cylinder wall where it proceeded to machine the prettiest 1" wide and 3.66" long groove you have ever seen. It left the piston with no support on one side so when I hit the nitrous, it cracked the piston. When tearing it apart, we weren't seeing anything but as we rotated it we could the #7 piston rocking 90 degrees from how it should have, so longitudinal rather than side to side.

Our stock liners can handle about .010 overbore. This was more like .125 deep. So like in your question, I researched resleeving. I found an industry success average of about 30%. That was too low for me so I went with a shortblock assembled by AMS Racing located down south in LA. This pin issue is a problem only with the LS1 as the LS2 has a floating pin held in with keepers. The sleeves are not pressed in on the stock blocks but rather cast around the liners which makes resleeving tough.
 

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GTOAA 04-06 Technical Advisor
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Holy smokes, GTOJer!
A "FEW" mods. Please tell me what I have to do to get those times!!
Is your car a daily driver, or close?
If you are a member of GTOAA, you can read all about it in a few months in the Legend. As far as daily driver, it could be with no issue but I would rather put miles on my truck. After all, it ain't like they make 'em any more.

You can also click on "My Care Page" in my sig.
 
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