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Discussion Starter #201
This threat has officially been resurrected!!!!

Ok.. so 2 years in hiatus was a bit much... and I'm sure those of you who follow my threat are expecting loads of progress but sadly, that is not the case. It seems every step forward has put me three steps back, and I finally opted to get some help. While I planned on doing everything myself, I decided bodywork just isn't my forte, and my friend Josh who has been guiding me along all this time, and who happens to be the guy I got the car from originally, has taken on the responsibility of bodywork and paint.

In the meantime, here are some good things that have happened...
I picked up a 1967 12 bolt 3.73 posi rear end for a pretty reasonable price. That will be getting freshened up in the near future.
I traded my 76 400 with ported 13 heads for an unmolested 70 GTO 400 with stock 13 heads. I just started digging into that tonight. Plan is a Crower 60243 camshaft, get the heads rebuilt, and freshen everything up. Hopefully a full rebuild isn't justified.
A few other things have happened but those are the big ones for now.

I will try to keep this thread going. I know it used to be a sticky, but my inactivity has cost me my VIP status...
 

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Discussion Starter #202
Disassembled the 400 and took it to the machine shop this week. Found 2 spun bearings. One of the cylinders had two deep gouges in the wall, most likely from the pieces that broke off when the bearing spun on that rod. So that will need sleeved. The machine shop said the engine had lived a hard life. All the main bearings were showing copper and the crank did not turn as easily as he thought it should with no rods attached. We will see what they find.
 

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Discussion Starter #203
Machine shop update:

Crank was bent so bad they were surprised it wasn't cracked. Luckily a friend hooked me up with a replacement. Got that turned .010, sleeved the gouged cylinder wall, and had everything bored .030 over. Ordered all new parts from Kauffman Racing including Keith Black forged pistons, and forged 5140 replacement rods. Also got a Crower cam, lifters, and springs and new valves. The cylinder heads needed a full rebuild. Next step is to balance the rotating assembly, install it, and degree the camshaft. The bill is going to hurt but at least the engine will be running as optimally as possible for a long time to come.

The body is almost ready for paint. Just a couple more sessions of blocking and priming and it should be squared away. I picked out my paint and that will be a surprise until it's out of the booth. But I can tell you it's going to be sharp! I finally caved in and passed bodywork and paint duties off to the person I initially got the car from. He painted my dad's 71 LeMans and it turned out spectacular. As much as I wanted to say I built the car start to finish by myself, but sometimes you're better off leaving some things to a professional. I am no body man, and learning on a 70 GTO frame-off restoration probably isn't the best idea.
 

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Discussion Starter #204
She's out of paint! Couldn't be happier with how this paint came out! However, because GM Hyper Blue Metallic has so much clear in it, it took almost double the amount of paint to cover everything... Painter said he never wants to shoot that color again.

I broke the cam in a month or so ago so the drivetrain is ready to go in. More to come later.
 

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very nice, i love 70's, had a chance to get one only in need of paint a few years back....wish i would have pulled the trigger. Keep us updated, great work!!!
 

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Oh man, I love that color, I haul parts into LGR ( Lansing Grand River ) GM plant in Lansing, Mi where the Camaro is built and that’s where I first seen that color on the ZL1, Very Nice Orion88, that Goat looks Awesome.
 

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Discussion Starter #209
New updates: TH400 is out. Borg/Warner Super T10 is in!! 10 bolt 3.08 is out, 12 bolt 3.73 is in!!! Cold case radiator with dual electric fans are mocked up. FITech EFI system is sitting on top! Currently trying to get the fuel system plumbed and wiring in the engine bay all connected and properly routed. Any insight from people with extensive experience with the FiTech throttle body and fuel command center I would appreciate any help you can offer. The fuel lines have me a little puzzled. The website says you don't have to run a return line, but my mechanical pump has a return line port. Not sure what the best option would be.
 

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Discussion Starter #210
I can see the light at the end of the tunnel... FiTech is operational and exhaust is installed (pypes 2.5" kit with borla mufflers). All glass is installed. Just need to finish the interior and bolt the hood on. She'll be ripping up asphalt this spring!!
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