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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey Guys,

I'm more of a Porsche guy myself (don't kick me out yet) but my father has always wanted a 60's model GTO. I had a good year and am planning on buying him a good solid driver that he can restore. I've found a decent car that looks to be a real Series 242 with lots of options (factory air, powersteering, brakes) I'd like some feedback from the pics if at all possible.

I plan on running the VIN via the PHS but they are at Barret Jackson this week and I can't get the needed info as quickly as I need to make a decision. VIN: 242177B138135

The owner states it has the factory matching numbers for the engine and transmission. I was surprised it was an column shift automatic and 400 HO engine. Does that seem right? One of my buddies told me the four barrell carb looks like it might be set up for the Ram Air modification?

Its been painted (for some reason they used what looks like a metalic red paint from a dang bass boat). Interior is not in that bad of shape. Let me know your thoughts. Whats it worth?

I appreciate the help.
 

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Some of the wiring in the engine compartment looks suspect, and based upon the repairs to the trunk pans, I would e asking what repairs like that the paint is hiding. Not saying don't buy it, just pointing out what I would be checking...
 

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I would look in the trunk under the package tray to see if it is rusted out below the window and the fins.
The engine looks like my 400 with A/C except for the ballast resistor I see on the firewall.
My car also came with the shifter on the column and from what I understand the autos with A/C came with the HD TH-400 used in Caddys and the 2.93 rear ends.
I don't think it is an HO engine most likely a 235 HP that they used on the A/C cars.

The first #2 is the division Pontiac the 42 is the series GTO the 17 is the model 2 Dr hardtop the next 7 is the year 1967 and the B is the plant code Baltimore MD.
The rest are the serial # of the car.
Paint code on the cowl tag R2 denotes the car should be Regimental red with a black vinyl top.
The engine code will be hard to see it is below the A/C compressor next to the timing cover right below the head.

More info here.

Pontiac MuscleCars - Pontiac MuscleCar Data - 1967 GTO VIN

Click on my photos to compare your engine to mine.
 

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FarWindsFarm,

I would look a little closer at the engine codes, I am seeing some items on your engine picture that indicate to me the motor may not be original to the car. The engine casting number is located either on the distributor pad (early 67) or behind the #8 cylinder (late 67). The engine unit number and letter code are located on the front of the block just under the head on the passenger side. In early 67 the Engine Unit Number was recorded on the billing history, when you order the PHS those number should match. In late 67 part of the vehicle's vin was added to the front of the block next to the timing chain cover.

Good luck,
 

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My car was built the 3rd week of March 67 and the block is stamped YS along with 4 digits of the serial number.
It was built in Fremont Ca. so maybe some plants started doing this earlier than others.
 

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My car was built the 3rd week of March 67 and the block is stamped YS along with 4 digits of the serial number.
It was built in Fremont Ca. so maybe some plants started doing this earlier than others.
March, more than likely would be the last part of the production year which would end in July/August.
 

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Dunno what happened to my original post....vanished. My take...the OP asked what is it worth: if it runs and drives, 8- 10k would be a fair price. It has a very rough trunk (needs replacement) and appears to be a base GTO. There is nothing to indicate that it is an HO, and the engine is the wrong color...could be an earlier 389 or 326. Numbers would have to be checked and verified. If it is an HO car, everything changes. The price goes up. Do you want a driver or an investment?
 

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I like it. It looks good to me, and I've owned a few. If it's reasonably priced, and starts and drives, I would buy it. Don't know why it needs a ballast resistor, unless there was a problem with the ignition wiring. Not hard to fix, tho.
 

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I would have to agree with the post about the trunk repairs. I would be concerned how many other holes were patched this way. I would want to see this car on a lift to check the floors, frame, etc. You can also have the body checked using a paint depth gauge which will tell you how thick the paint is and pin point if there is filler, how much, and where it is. Works better than using a magnet (old school). I would hate to see you buy this car and have it be much worse than it appears on the surface. Unless this car is very cheep or you are head over heels for it, you may want to look for one that is more solid or at least repaired with replacement/donor panels rather than sheet metal. As for the actual value, you can look on sites like Ebay to see what ones in similar shape are selling for or have a pre-purchase appraisal performed. Could be well worth your money.
 
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