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Anything can be fixed, for enough money.

How much damage are we talking? Where is it? Usually, by the time frame corrodes, the sheet metal is in such bad shape the car is worthless.
 

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67 Basket Case Restorer
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Anything can be fixed, for enough money.

How much damage are we talking? Where is it? Usually, by the time frame corrodes, the sheet metal is in such bad shape the car is worthless.
More info would be helpful but if it is considerable and the body is decent, find a frame in a dry area of the country and replace it.

I drove from MN to OK for a clean frame for my '67...:smile2:

Everyone's level of what is the kiss of death is different. I will save the roof and most of the original firewall on my basket case...most everything else is replacement parts whether new repro or used donor.
 

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More info would be helpful but if it is considerable and the body is decent, find a frame in a dry area of the country and replace it.

I drove from MN to OK for a clean frame for my '67...:smile2:

Everyone's level of what is the kiss of death is different. I will save the roof and most of the original firewall on my basket case...most everything else is replacement parts whether new repro or used donor.
Heh. Bought the VIN? I've learned my lesson. Spend more upfront...
 

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Discussion Starter #5
the car is a 4 speed, tri power with a 76xw block. (wrong per manifest correct for year and options) It drives and the body top and interier are intact and good condition. Nice rims and all parts are there. The frame is rotted in the common areas. (behind front wheels and in front of rear). Body mounts are rotted or missing is a few spots. besides the frame, car is condition 2+.
 

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67 Basket Case Restorer
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the car is a 4 speed, tri power with a 76xw block. (wrong per manifest correct for year and options) It drives and the body top and interier are intact and good condition. Nice rims and all parts are there. The frame is rotted in the common areas. (behind front wheels and in front of rear). Body mounts are rotted or missing is a few spots. besides the frame, car is condition 2+.
The extent of rust damage in the link above is severe. IF yours is that bad, I strongly recommend replacing it. That much damage can be cut out and new pieces fabricated BUT, the cost will exceed a replacement frame. I have repaired frames nearly that bad at a restoration shop I worked at, but the bare frame needs to be locked down on a frame rack holding it straight, square and level. If the repair is done on jack stands, it will look like a pretzel when done and may not be straightenable on a rack afterwards.

Yes, convertible frames are harder to find and more expensive but if originality isn't important, you can use a sedan/coupe frame and box the center section yourself. That would still be far less work than a major rebuild. Again, if you do major welding on any frame, have it locked down. I've seen good frames reduced to scrap from shrinking and warping during the welding process.

Good Luck...:smile2:
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks all.

I found a place that has a new frame, blasted & coated, for $2500.

Is that a good price?
 

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67 Basket Case Restorer
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Thanks all.

I found a place that has a new frame, blasted & coated, for $2500.

Is that a good price?
I wouldn't call it a good price but probably in the ballpark. Powdercoating alone can run 6 hundred. Make sure it's for a GTO and not a Chevelle. The Chevelle frame is shorter.
 

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67 Basket Case Restorer
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Measure your frame from the body mount right behind the tire to the rear crossmember mount. The Chevelle is shorter between those two points.

I believe the Buick is the same as a GTO and probably Olds too. They both have longer quarter panels than the Chevelle in '64-65.

I'll measure my '66 Chevelle tomorrow. They might be the same as the GTO.
 
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