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Discussion Starter #1
I bought a bunch of front end parts and just finished putting it all together, Koni struts, Lovell springs and radius rod and control arm bushing, I also had the strut houseing powder coated red. This made a great difference in handling and was well worth the effort.
Question on the front adjustable bushing, I just set it at the standard but I had read that the best setting was +1/4 degree camber.
 

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I'm a super advocate of the +3/4 setting. I can't believe how much better the car feels at that setting. Anytime anyone has a question about Front radius rod bushings I always recommend the +3/4. Sporty feel but not too much caster so you won't be hitting the front wheels on the inner fender well. Turns in muuuuch better and gets rid of a lot of the understeer feeling.

Also make sure you leave the extra washer on the driver side that's there from the factory. And make sure not to over torque the 4 nuts that hold the plate in place. They can break with to much torque!
 

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Also just realized you said "Camber". I'm assuming you mean Caster as the Front Radius Rod bushings don't change the camber, only Caster. Camber is changed on the strut its self by the tiny bolt in between the 2 large Strut to knuckle bolts.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Also just realized you said "Camber". I'm assuming you mean Castor as the Front Radius Rod bushings don't change the camber, only Castor. Camber is changed on the strut its self by the tiny bolt in between the 2 large Strut to knuckle bolts.
Yes I did mean castor also please tell me about the extra washer, where does it go and what does it do?
 

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There is an extra washer on the driver side Radius rod that sits behind the radius rod front bushing. You can kinda see it here in this pic thru the hole in the frame rail. (this is with stock radius rod bushing taken out.)

It's to level the caster on the car since there is always extra weight on the driver's side from the driver. You'll know when you see it because there isn't one on the passenger side.

 

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Also make sure you get a good alignment after you finish installing all that stuff.

I thought I was good after installing a bunch bushings, springs, and shocks, as the car drove fine... Then I took it into an alignment shop a couple weeks later and the front right wheel had almost -2 degrees of camber and the back right tire had almost 2 degrees of positive toe. I would have chewed thru some tires quick! Not to mention car would probably have been unpredictable in high speed maneuvers being so uneven all the way around the car.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
I am a little confused they didn't give any torque specs for the front radius rod bushing and rear radius rod bushing and the control arm bushing, I have found conflicting torque specs online. Here is one set of specs that I believe to be accurate. Control arm 109ft-lbs, Rear radius rod 76ft-lbs, Front radius rod 72ft-lbs. Anybody confirm what is right or wrong?
 

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Here's all the factory torque specs for the front suspension. The ones in question are in bold:

FRONT TQ Specs:

Control Arm Ball Joint 44 ft-lb
Control Arm 109 ft-lb
Radius Rod 72 ft-lb
Rear Radius Rod 76 ft-lb
Outer Tie Rod to Steering Knuckle 50 ft-lb
Swaybar Endlinks 37 ft-lb
Strut Shaft to Body 58 ft-lb
Strut to Knuckle Nut and Bolt
1st Pass 63 ft-lb
2nd Pass 74 ft-lb
3rd Pass quarter turn
Caliper Bracket 52 ft-lb
Caliper to Bracket 45 ft-lb

Oh and I believe the 4 small nuts around the radius rod bushing plate is only 18-20 ft/lbs. I remember not having a setting low enough on my big torque wrench lol. Just tighten them up without going crazy.
 
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