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I installed new tubular front control arms. Torqued the upper ball joint to spindle nut to 65 ft lb. the bottom to 90 ft lb. the spindle is so tight I can nearly move it. After speaking with the supplier they said to loosen the castle nut. This I did on the bottom a arm and could then move the spindle but it was moving on the stud of the ball joint not the ball. This is on a 65 gto with all new parts. Is it possible the ball joints are bad or is it normal for this to be extremely tight?
 

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I can only believe that the tech guy was thinking you meant the disc brake rotor on the spindle was too tight. That's where you might have the castle nut too tight and have to back it of to the next notch and then insert the cotter pin.

If I am under standing you correctly, you are torquing the nut on the end of the ball joint stud as it passes through the spindle arm. Once torqued down, you cannot move it very freely?

Did allowing the spindle to rotate on the ball joint stud make it easier to turn? Maybe it is the top ball joint giving you a problem?

The ball joint stud should have a taper to it. That taper is what seats as it goes through the spindle. The spindle should have a corresponding taper, so when you torque the bolt, it draws it up tight into the spindle and wedges/locks it in place so it will not spin/turn. Loosening as you have done, will indeed allow the spindle to rotate on the ball joint stud, rather then the ball joint rotate in its cup like it should.

Aftermarket pieces can be funny. First check that both the ball joint stud and spindle arm it goes through have matching tapers. It is possible the ball joint is the wrong application and either does not have this or is too small and slipping right in the spindle arm rather than wedge into the spindle arm. It may be bottoming out on the ball joint?

Is the the control arm coming into contact at any point with the spindle?

New ball joints can be "tight". Have you tried leaving the top ball joint off and attaching only the lower ball joint, and then grab the spindle manually and rotate it back and forth?



Definitely want to have the ball joints torqued to spec as you first did.

If you can, post a couple photos of what you have.
 

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If these are aftermarket low cost, control arms they probably have generic Chinese ball joints. Take the joints out and toss them. Install new Moog or Proforged ball joints. Do it now or later when the studs fail.
And I second what Jim said; Torque them to factory specs.
 
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