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I am getting ready to break-ground on my garage on 7-11-15. I am very excited that it is finally happening, and I can stop having to store my '68 while paying over $100/month. Anyway, this thing is going to be as decked-out as possible, and will be my little man-cave on this earth. With that, I have some questions for some of you that may have asked yourselves the same things at one point:

1. My garage size will be 22' x 18', which is the largest I can build on my property. Does anyone have a garage around that size? How does it handle a 17' long car, along with any tools, etc. in there?

2. I read the thread a while ago on the different types of car lifts that people have, but would love to hear from someone that may have a lift, with a garage around my size.

3. Anyone use that race-deck that I always see advertised on Velocity? How do you like it? I love the checkerboard look on the floor, but worst-case, I will just epoxy it if the race-deck isn't worth it.

4. I am a mason and carpenter by trade, so I am literally doing everything myself, with a couple buddies and some brewskies, of course. I had to draw-up plans to get the permit, but this thing is pretty much a blank canvas, so I would love some advice/regrets on things some of you may or may not have done, that you wish you did/didn't on yours (i.e. ceiling height, location of windows/doors, interior finishes, power, etc..)

Thanks in advance, and yes, I will post many pics as I get rolling.
 

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Great news on the new garage. I can shed some light on a couple of your questions. I built one about 5 years ago.

My garage is a bit larger than what you are building at 24x24. However, I have worked on an extended cab Dodge Dakota in it (the truck was just under 19 feet so the depth is about the same). I was replacing the water pump so I had the truck with the rear bumper about 3 inches from the door with plenty of room to work under the hood. I was not able to have my tool box right in front. Remember you will lose about a foot of depth due to the foundation. As for the width 18 wide will be great especially for one car. I have a full work bench on one side and there is still room to work on one car without moving the other (my LeMans shares a home with dad's Corvette).

As for recommendations, hold off on plans to outfit the inside (benches, rollaways, etc) until you are done and see what room you have with the car in there.

Have more power run to it than you think you will need. I told the electrician that I wanted to someday run 220V out there. It didn't cost much more to go over what I really needed. Besides, if I ever decide to run a wielder there won't be an issue with power.

Lastly, go for a full 8 foot high door. The door opening on mine is 8 feet high and the door opens so that I have the full 8 feet of clearance. You never know if you will end up working on a truck and it would be nice to be able to get almost anything through the door.

Good luck with it!
 

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Jared:

Thanks for the advice. Like you said, my plan was to actually park my car in the garage, then plan for work-benches and shelves once I see what I am working with. Do you have a 10' ceiling inside your garage?

My dad is an electrician, so we are going to run a 60-amp sub-panel out there. I am going to install great lighting, a few receptacles, and give myself a 220v receptacle for the same reason as you - welder/compressor.

I am glad to hear you could work on a dodge extended cab though, the main thing I was worried about was the front of the car, and if I had decent clearance to work under the hood - sounds like I will.

Thanks again for the reply.
 

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Going to need more than a 10 foot ceiling if a lift is in the future plans. 10' 6" ceiling height is normally the minimum celling height with most 2 or 4 post lifts and a 60's- early 70's GM A or F body. With a traditional style garage door with overhead tracks would look at a 12 or 13 foot ceiling height, you have to take into consideration the area of where the garage door rolls back, so it does not interfere with roof of the car. If you can source a commercial style roll up steel door, then won't have to worry about traditional garage door roll up track araa. Have a commercial style roll up steel door at my warehouse. Only problem with the commercial style roll up doors is they are expensive, and have yet to run across one that is insulated.

Well thought out in design, you should have adequate room for workbenches, storage, etc. Am a firm believer in as much celing height as possible, along with mini pallet rack, to be able to keep items not being used off the floor.
 

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What Pinion head said. Sounds like your footprint is limited, but how high can you go? I went with 12' walls and about a 15' ceiling for the front half of my shop (42'x24' with a 16 foot wide roll up door). Height is a good thing, for lifts, for cooling, and for shelf/storage space. Go as high as you can, IMO.
 

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Is it 17' deep and 22' wide or vice versa? How many cars are you planning on keeping in there? If its just for one car and a hobby shop it would be a nice size, if it is for two cars it will be tight for workbenches, toolboxes etc.

I epoxy painted my floor and really like it. I did it 10 years ago and it's ready for another coat though. I always park 3 cars in my garage all year round and I do all my own work in there so it's seen heavy use.

I would recommend insulating the walls and installing insulated doors.

Do you have a local Habitat for Humanity store? They sell items donated by contractors and is a good place to find cabinets and other stuff you might want for your garage. You could install a used oven for baking powder coated items or a utility sink for washing up before you mess up the wife's kitchen.

Are you considering heating or cooling it? I have a small Dayton gas furnace in my garage that does a fine job. I've used electric heat (the salvaged heat side of a heat pump) that worked very well also. If you have windows you can use a window A/C unit in the summer. A couple of inexpensive ceiling fans will get some air moving in the garage to make it a little more comfortable.

I also have an attic vent with a window fan and a folding staircase to my attic for additional storage. I put some sheets of chip board up in the rafters and secured them with drywall screws before I dry walled the ceiling. I also have a couple of light bulbs and a 110V outlet up there in my storage area. You might also consider putting your air compressor up there if you have the room and use a hose reel suspended from the ceiling.

On the 60 amp sub panel.....I have a 100 amp panel and my welding outlet alone is 60 amps, you really need to ascertain what you plan on doing out there if you have an air compressor and a welder, lights, fans, radio, extension cords for power tools, etc. etc. etc. I don't think 60 will be enough. Make sure to run 12 ga. wire throughout you may want to run a portable 110V welder at different points in the garage, or run some milk house heaters in the winter.
 

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Unfortunately, I was limited on height due to local building codes. Floor to ceiling I am somewhere between 10 and 10.5 feet. I was limited to 15 feet total height. I also used epoxy on the floor. It is a clear finish that has held up pretty good to moderate use. One other thing I forgot to mention, I installed the windows as high as possible on the back wall. From the inside they are at about head height which puts them well above work height. Currently I use a bullet heater but plan on getting something cleaner burning maybe before next winter.
 

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I am planning on putting-up 10' walls, and was hoping to utilize a bit of attic storage; however, I would gladly trade that to make sure I can get a lift in there. I was reading this thread earlier, and it looks like guys get by with a 10 to 10-4" ceiling on the bottom part of the first page: 10' ceilings and a lift - The Garage Journal Board

I am definitely insulating it - I get a ton of building material free from work, so that won't be an issue. I have a brand-new PTAC unit left-over from a job I ran, so that is what I am putting in the corner for heat and AC. I am definitely running an exhaust vent on a thermostat in the attic space as well - whether it turns-out vaulted or not. As for the power, a 60-amp sub-panel is the best I can do, due to the other 2-car garage I have, and some other projects I have done. This garage will just be for my 1 car, so I am glad at the feedback that I will have plenty of room. Definitely a pallet-rack will be needed, because I am a severe clean-freak, and the floor must be clean at all times.

I got a quote from racedeck today for my floor. 396 sqft, red border, and black & white checkered in the middle. Came out to $1421.00, so I will have to see what I've got left-over once this thing is actually built. I LOVE the look of the race-deck, but like ALKY said, the epoxy looks nice as well.

As always, thanks for the feedback - everything duly noted. Feel free to give some more advice if something crosses your mind.
 

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I had mine insulated and it wasn't expensive....and with 100-110 temps the norm 3 months out of the year out here, it was a good decision. My shop with no cooler or a/c stays 15 degrees cooler than outside ambient on a hot day. And it's plenty warm in the winter, too.
 

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El Monte that is a sexy freaking garage. I am renting a garage that is 34x36 and 25' height for 300.00., perfect size. Plus my personal garage is 18x20 that works well for certain things. I hope everything goes well building yours.
 
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