Thanks for attaching these pics. I remember taking a drafting class in highschool (way back when) and they said for lines where they don't give a figure, it generally means there's enough info to do the math and calculate the missing figure. I'll have to dig into my memory banks for the trigonometry needed to figure out the "y" measurement. Then again the text in your attachment specifically says the figures aren't given. I'll have to give it another think when I'm back at the car again.Regarding the frame dimentions, attached are 2 pages from my chassis shop manual. Although it does not give dimensions for diagonals, it does give you points from where to measure. I assume that a 67 frame is very close or similar to a 66.
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This is super helpful and exactly what I was hoping for. Thank you.The diagonals are shown so that you can take the measurements and verify that they are equal. Meaning, both "X" dimensions are the same value as with the both the "Y"s and "Z"s. Equal dimensions in these areas proves squareness regardless of the actual diagonal values. Be careful applying Trig to the given dimensions. The dimensions shown in the top view might seem applicable to Pythagoras theorem or Trig functions, but realize that the reference points are NOT in the same plane which will throw the results off. This is likely a 3 dimensional problem. For example, try to stretch a string from spot to spot for the "X" dimension...you can't do it because the string will hit the outward and downward curve in the frame making it impossible to get a spot-to-spot measurement. I believe that all the dimensions given are in a single plane. This would mean you would have to project the spots downward to the floor and then take the measurements off the floor. The 3 dimensional aspect of the frame would be best suited for modeling in a 3D drafting software for accuracy's sake.
Without laying the frame out on a proven level and flat surface, checking a frame is not that straight forward. That's why frame straighteners get the money they do for their work and available equipment.
Down and dirty, you should be able to check (with your highly calibrated eye-crometers - in other words...by eye and tape measure) the dimensions that have values assigned to them and then pick some spots to check the diagonals for squareness (preferably along the same lines as "X, Y, & Z").
I've got some big plans! But not too big. I'd like to put in a Butler stroker kit to start.You did not get an "HO" car/engine. You have the 335HP base version. With those options, it was a daily driver (probably cheaper on insurance as well) and not purchased for the "performance" factor. BUT, you can change that.
Package shelves are not being reproduced. Chevelles are not the same size. I have not attempted to install my chevelle tray but might be able to lay it in place if you need some kind of reference.
Lol. Compared to my build sheet, his looks like a salt-flats record breaker.You did not get an "HO" car/engine. You have the 335HP base version. With those options, it was a daily driver (probably cheaper on insurance as well) and not purchased for the "performance" factor. BUT, you can change that.