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for the people with gmm shifter which web site did you get it from and when you installed it was it all form inside the car or did you have to lower the tranny abit ???
 

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Speed Inc - Pure Power

I may have lowered the tranny down, I can't remember. Work was done inside and out, have to undo the white shifter boot from the bottom and remove the top part of the center console to do the rest.
 

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I got the shifter gaskets from here...

Products

I used the base gasket... it looked almost exactly like the stock gasket that was on there. I did remove the small gasket that was on the underside of the GMM Shifter.... did it with an ice pick and a small flat head. Careful though its easy to slip with the ice pick on the gasket cause its super glued in...

As far as the two smaller shifter handle gaskets... I was unable to get them on because when you slide the square base on the bottom of the upper shift handle... onto the actual shift lever... its a very tight fit and the gaskets wouldnt fit without getting all squished... thus I couldnt get them to line up correctly and fit right so I left them off.

I still have them so I may screw with putting them on later. I was frustrated and at that point all I really wanted was the shifter... didnt feel like screwing around with these two lil gaskets that were getting squished and not lining up with the 2 holes that secured the whole thing together. You could easily try and put them on later though in like 5-10 mins with a small ratchet, all from inside the car. Im thinking of using some kind of lubricant to get the gaskets and everything on correctly without being all squished.

Personally the noise doesn't bother me... nothing about this car can really upset me I love it. I bought the shift gaskets cause they were very cheap... and I'm sure they help a little. If I took the time to correctly install the smaller shift handle gaskets Im sure it would cut down alot more on the noise because theres nothing to stop the vibrations from cumming up from the tranny all the way up the shift handle... except that one base gasket.

I would advise you to get some high flow clutch stainless lines and remote bleeder line... and replace your tranny fluid with a good synthetic like Royal Purple Synchromax or Amsoil....

Heres some links that Ive saved for later on when I replace my lines... as far as what a remote bleeder is I'm not totally sure.. I assume it just makes it easier to bleed the clutch. I dont really know exactly where to find one other then the link below... that I found from doing a search on the forum.


SS Clutch Line

Classic Tube - Product Search

Remote Bleeder Line
Ask for Jeff Creech (919-680-3966)

Carolina Auto Masters

Got these two links from here...

http://www.gtoforum.com/f3/clutch-just-failed-17035/

and I have these because I bookmarked them long ago...

Solid Clutch Hydraulic Line for 04-06 GTO (GTOHYD) - $89.99 ..

McLeod Universal Billet Slave Cylinder Assembly (T56) - $379..
 

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the stock gasket on the bottom of the shifter is fine. i wouldn't take it off. most noise, unless you have a noisy trans, is from rattling knobs (reinstall it properly with a bit of silicone), hitting the transmission tunnel (some have had to slightly bend up the tunnel opening at about the "2 O'clock" position or not using the round, stock, black boot. it's not in the instructions other than it says you can use it if you want to and to cut it but you do want to and don't cut it. just slide it over the shift handle and push it over the round base of the shifter. it's a little hard but push it down and secure it with a hose clamp around the base. it will help dampen out any vibration. use red or blue Loc-tite on everything (i used red and have removed the bolts several times no problem) and yes, drop the tranny or you won't be able to get the white boot bolts out. the tranny will just hang there fine.

 

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I also re used the black boot that svede has a picture of and it has not gotten in the way at all.

Although unlike svede picture I slipped the top portion of the black boot farther down... below the 2 bolts that hold on the main shift handle.

I would also go and grab some hex head bolts... it made things much easier for me. Although you have to use the allen head bolt on the bottom right hole because you cant fit a hex head bolt in... even a slightly shorter one that somone suggested in that guide I linked didnt work... I tried it was still slightly too long. You could slot out the yellow area a little like he was talking about though to get the longer hex head bolt to fit.... Scooter70 is the one who suggested the hex head bolts on the first page of the install guide I linked earlier.

I used 3 - M8x1.25x35mm bolts and the supplied allen head bolt that GMM sends with the shifter for the bottom right hole.
 

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I bought mine from here...

JHP Vehicle Enhancements - Specialise in Holden Monaro and Commodore Spoilers, Body Kits, Tyre and Wheel Packages.

The used DHL to ship... literally had it in 2 days, never used DHL before but I must say it rocks. I had the damn shifter before I even drove up to dallas to buy the car lol.

As for a good description and walk through of the install.... here ya go!

LS1GTO.com Forums - GMM Ripper Install
I bought mine from JHP also. I ordered it on a Tuesday, but it was back-ordered until that Friday. They shipped it on Friday and I received it the following Friday. For some reason it sat in customs in LA for three days.:confused I had it installed two hours later.:D

I dropped the rear tranny mount, and had no real issues with the install. My tranny only dropped about an inch and a half though.
 

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I ordered mine directly from GMM. $344US and free shipping.. took about a week to get to me.
 

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The true difference between the race and street is the actual shift handle/lever...
on the street version you reuse the upper portion of the stock shift lever.... and on the race version they give you a solid lever from the bottom up...

This makes the race version have a more solid feel... I have the street and personally I love it. Its a huge difference from the stock rubbery ass shifter lever that the car came with. I also believe the race 1 piece lever is slightly shorter... not sure on that you would have to check.

In the end its just personal preferance I believe... the race version is very solid with a direct connection to the top of the shifter... therefore a direct connection to the tranny. Thus causing noise and vibrations from the tranny to be louder in the cab on the race version... the street version is quieter from what I understand.

Personally I think the street is the way to go... but you could get a race version and later on if you decide that its too loud or too solid of a feel... then they make a conversion lever to turn the race shifter into a street version shifter. I dont think they make a race lever to put on the street... although I guess if you found someone that wanted to trade you could.
 
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