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Discussion Starter #1
brakes are next on the order.
note that the car is currently on jack stands in the front, so it is sitting alot higher than it would be. you can kind of see the seats in the pictures (red/black leather) they did clean up well, they all look the same as the one you see in the picture. the car has orange peel bad, looks like someone sprayed it outdoors, I intend to have the car sandblasted and painted here sometime this year, it will be a smooth gloss black of course.

I have a few drops in the bucket now....from 7000 miles away I am getting work done :) :rofl:
 

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1967
1390 I believe. 13" the rims are 17"
DO NOT!!! sandblast the body panels, they will warp and you will go nuts trying to get it back to flat, my future son in law did the back side of my hood and i told him only the support rails needed to be done, well he went the extra mile, or so he thought and did the whole underside.....took me nearly 3 weeks just to get the hood back to flat. You can media blast (soda, crushed walnut shells...etc.) or dip them and there is a new system that uses dry ice i believe all can get very expensive, or go old school and DA it off. Wow on the brakes, is that for all four corners or just the fronts? Truth is the GM 70' up single piston disk brakes are very capable of stopping these monsters in all but road race situations and can be had for a under a hundred at any junk yard and are direct bolt ups. you can order the drilled and slotted rotors from any number of sources for under a hundred. i think i got my whole front end kit for around 300.00 with the zinc drilled and slotted rotors (look great with the 5-spoke billet wheels), stainless lines and GM re-man calipers with new spindles. all i had to do was paint the calipers, brakes just slow you down anyways....:D





1966 Tempest pictures by instg8ter - Photobucket

Brian
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I am a performance man, I know what will stop a car ok, and what will really Whoaaaa...a moving car. I like my 4 pistons on my cobra, so I am going that route. and I don't mind paying for a nice product. and when I said sandblast, I will not be sandblasting the body, it will only be the interior floor pan and the like locations, anything with the body I will use a random orbital sander. when you say DA, what exactly are you referring to?
 

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Dual Action, orbital or grinding...sorry did'nt read back on the Cobra if you are gonna drive it hard money well spent, have seen a 67' Tempest in an autocross that ate up a lot of smaller cars. was just speaking general cruising and an occasional run down the track...:cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Doh, I feel like a DA (Dumbass) thanks.....

I still need to get all the sandpaper, a DA sander, a squeegee, some wetsand paper, not looking forward to having to do my paint job later this year. I think I may attempt some of it myself to see how I do. I used to do alot of wood working so I think I have a good start of knowledge on how to smooth out the surface and paint it. going to make a redneck part paint booth (plastic drop cloths stretched over a wood frame with an exhaust fan)
 

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VV I am a carpenter and did mine, i looked at it as dry walling on a microscopic level. It is a long tedious job to get the long panels flat and straight (no waves) which you will need to do if you plan on spraying it black i used up to a 4' sanding block on some areas....i would say in total to get it where i think its ready (smooth to the touch with my eyes closed) for high build primer i have at least 150 hrs into it, and once i prime i will have one more blocking with guide coat down to 150 grit and then wet sanding to 5-600 grit before i can lay on a color. And my car was an all metal survivor with even gaps and no major panel work needed. Long story short, now i know why a GOOD paint job with body work can cost upwards of 20K. Will be priming it in the shop and renting a booth for color and clear.
 

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That's good to know. so you are using high build primer? I was told 2 coats of primer on a smooth good panel, otherwise as many as 4. 2 coats of gloss black at a minimum and follow by 4-5 layers of clear for the deep look, and of course I don't expect anything less than 500 hours on the bodywork. I'm ok with that.
 

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yep its long and tedious but necessary especially with black...My plans are bodywork, 2-3 coats of high buildprimer, wetsand down to 5-600 spray sealer, spray 3-4 coats of color, 3-4 coats of premium clear
 
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