I have the fiberglass one. You will have to relocate the computer cause it will hit the hood. Also, the body shop had to do a lot of prep work to it. Wasn't paint ready. It was cheaper than the stock hood plus 40% lighter for the fiberglass (45%) for the carbon. If you can pick it up, you'll save $200 at the most on shipping. The shop told me to not go with carbon cause once it gets damaged it's trash, as for the fibergalss, it can be repaired. Carbon is much stronger and only a slight bit lighter than the fiberglass. Geting a good prep on the hood is critical. I had to have mine re-done before leaving for the desert. The paint cracked right under the hood scoops.
Also, if you have a CAI, it will not line up unless it's a Lingenfelter or CSPerformance heat shielf from Austrailia. My K&N was way off with the intake hole from the hood. It was blowing the cool air on the outside of the heatshield thus having no effect on the "raim air" effect. Unless you get a custom box built just for this hood. There is a company called MPD that makes fiberglass hoods that has a box that mates to their hood. Here's their web-site.
Can anyone tell me if the sensor I have circled in the picture is the temp sending unit for temp idiot light on a 68 GTO. The light does not come on when I turn the ignition key like the “gen” and “oil” lights do so I want to make sure it’s working. If that’s it, any advice on testing it?
I was driving and all of a sudden it just stopped pulling and now it won’t do nothing in any gear not even reverse but whine what could it be the driveshaft is still intact
I have 04 that pulls hard left when stopping. After I stop and before I accelerate ill release off of the brake pedal and I feel a thud in the steering wheel.
2005 gto key physically won't turn , I ordered the new revised cylinder , but in order to remove the old cylinder you need to turn the key to on position ,then push the the little button with the Allen wrench ,what do I do ,my steering wheel is also locked
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