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Where can i find this grommet or O ring? Mine is leaking. Ive looked in catalogs and internet with no luck What is best intake manifold gasket to use? Do i use sealant or not? I have Edelbrock Aluminum heads and intake manifold. The valley pan looks like plain old RTV. I think ill also pull water pump and chech impeller clearance to backing plate while im into it. Thanks, Mike
 

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I usually use the blue teflon coated intake gaskets by Fel-pro. The grommet is usually included with the gasket set. No need to put any sealer on intake gaskets but I put a little shot on the grommet to make sure it stays in place while you place the intake on the heads. Not sure about using the gaskets on aluminum/aluminum but they seal just fine on cast ironheads/ aluminum intake so I can't see why they wouldn't work for you. Only trouble I ever had was the tendancy to overtighen the the bolt from the timing cover housing into the front of the intake. Doesn't take to much effort to break it off, then you get to practice drilling and tapping out the old bolt:( Not sure what you're into on the waterpump clearance issue, don't think there is any way clearance can change unless the shaft is worn/loose and then the pump would probably be loose, noisy or leaking. Check the shaft play with the fan belts off. If it's tight and not leaking I wouldn't worry about it unless you're having some kind of overheating problem.
 

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Tighten the long bolt BEFORE you torque the manifold down. This will insure a good seal, and prevent the above mentioned 'snappage' from occurring. :cheers E
 

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As far as sealant, I've discovered that I love the Racing Blue Hylomar --- but it's pricey. A small tube at OReilly is 10 bucks or more. It seals great and also never dries/hardens, thus making it more likely that a future removal won't tear up the gaskets and you'll be able to reuse them. I like the "good" Felpro gaskets with the rubber/silicone sealing beads around the ports.

Clearancing the water pump. Do it - it can make a huge difference in how well the pump works. Lay the plate on the bare pump with no gasket between them, work around the plate opening with a hammer (gently now, Roger) until it just kisses the impeller. Once you reassemble with the gasket in place, clearance will be optimium.

As far as the sequence, it can be a trade off. If you've put time and effort into port matching the intake to your heads (and gaskets) then if you tighten that long bolt first it's going to pull everything out of alignment and all that work will have been for naught. However, if you torque the manifold first it can make it tougher to get a good seal between the manifold and the timing/pump cover - as mentioned. Your call on that one.

Bear
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Grommet

Thanks guys. I just ordered the Felpro intake gasket set and the salesman assured me that the grommet was included. I set my manifold in place for a fitment eyeball. I noticed that the thermostat housing hits the back of the gear case housing before i get a metal to metal contact where the grommet is contained. Only about a 64th. Ill do a little grind job so i can snug it metal to metal where the grommet sits. That may be why it started to leak because on inspection the olg grommet looked fine. As far as the waterpump. I was thinkink of getting a high flow aluminum one as motor would get hot in heavy traffic but would be cool as long as i was moving down the road. I removed the water pump and to my supprise it was aluminum painted blue. I think it is already a high flow because it had a steal plate welded to the cast impeller fins. The only marks as to the manufacturer are G-28n.2 on the inside. I did the metal plate clearence adjustment as outlined above and narrowed the gap about 3/16. Im betting (hopeing) that this will improve the low speed heating issue. I removed the valley pan to clean it up and look into the motor to verify that is was a 74 SD 455 motor and it indeed is. It has all the horizontal stiffener ribs. Ill take some pictures before i button it back up. Ill set the intake on without the gaskets while the RTV ultra gray is still wet on the valley pan to get it adjusted. Theres not a whole lot of extra room between the edge of the valve covers and the edge of the valley pan. Im also replacing the power steering pump as the resevour has had a slow drip the whole time ive had the car. Its made a black mess around it. Im getting a reman as i could not seperate the can from the pump to get to the O ring. I removed the two bolts and beat on it with a short piece of 2x4. Oh well. Enough rambeling. Thanks for your help.
 
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