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A 9 year old thread? Best if you started your own. But to answer your question, no. The "6" is probably a 6 cylinder, not sure what the "0" is, "2" would be a LeMans which had the GTO option. And of course the 4 is the year.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
A 9 year old thread? Best if you started your own. But to answer your question, no. The "6" is probably a 6 cylinder, not sure what the "0" is, "2" would be a LeMans which had the GTO option. And of course the 4 is the year.
:agree

 

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thanks. I am looking at a car that has this vin but no post. The 0 is for tempest but my understanding is that you could not get the tempest in a Hard Top (no post)
 

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it is a tri power 4 speed in nice shape. The tag on the firewall supposedly indicates GTO option. I am going to look at it closer today. Thanks for the help. (I will start a new thread)
 

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Since this thread got brought back to life

I always wondered why I cant find the engine vin code on my block. if I understand correctly, engraved on the front passenger side of the the block should be:

Engine production # (XXXXXX)
Engine code (XX)
Engine VIN code (Last 6 of vehicle VIN)

Any reason there would only be the first two lines engraved on the block? Am I looking in the wrong place for the engine VIN code?
 

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The engine vin would be located on a machined pad running vertical next to the passenger side of the timing cover...... Ex. 28p123456 If your engine is pre late '67, there will be no vin....

A visual:

 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
thanks. I am looking at a car that has this vin but no post. The 0 is for tempest but my understanding is that you could not get the tempest in a Hard Top (no post)
You are incorrect, the 1964 tempest was offered as a coupe, hardtop and convertible, the tempest was not offered as a 4-door hardtop until 1965.

Here is a picture of a 1964 tempest hardtop;



The car you are asking about can in no way be a GTO even though someone has possible changed the data plate to a GTO data plate.

Good luck in your search for a GTO and if the price is right go ahead and buy the clone.
 

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The engine vin would be located on a machined pad running vertical next to the passenger side of the timing cover...... Ex. 28p123456 If your engine is pre late '67, there will be no vin....
Thanks! its a 67, I thought I was loosing my mind. I would go check every few days to see if a block vin had magically appeared :shrug:
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks! its a 67, I thought I was loosing my mind. I would go check every few days to see if a block vin had magically appeared :shrug:
If your car is an early 67 production the engine unit number under the letter code on the front of the block should be listed on the PHS billing history.
 

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In 64 and 65 GTO was not its own Model, It was an option for the LeMans. There for you can not tell if its a GTO By the Vin as all GTO's and LeMans have the same Vin numbers other then the last numbers 6 numbers. The only real way to tell is to to go to PHS Automotive Services. Website: PHS Historic Services
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
In 64 and 65 GTO was not its own Model, It was an option for the LeMans. There for you can not tell if its a GTO By the Vin as all GTO's and LeMans have the same Vin numbers other then the last numbers 6 numbers. The only real way to tell is to to go to PHS Automotive Services. Website: PHS Historic Services
I agree PHS is the best resource, but 64 and 65 GTO's built at the Pontiac and Kansas City plants can be identified as being true GTO's by a 5N located on the lower portion of the data plate.
 

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If your car is an early 67 production the engine unit number under the letter code on the front of the block should be listed on the PHS billing history.
What part of the stamped engine (six digit) unit number corresponds with the four digit (YS5373) PHS billing sheet. On the trans its very clear and an exact match tag code=PHS unit code. Date stamp on block, heads, and intake are all 04/14/1967 and the build date of the car on the PHS is 05/03/1967. As I stated before no block vin code. My understanding is that only the metal credit card that was a part of the original owners manual can prove the stamped engine unit number is correct for the car. If its not the original motor it's one hell of a coincidence that the replacement motor was cast less than 20 days before the car build, and as the second owner I can tell you I didn't swap the motor. Is there any other way to 100% prove the motor is original?
 
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