:agreeA 9 year old thread? Best if you started your own. But to answer your question, no. The "6" is probably a 6 cylinder, not sure what the "0" is, "2" would be a LeMans which had the GTO option. And of course the 4 is the year.
You are incorrect, the 1964 tempest was offered as a coupe, hardtop and convertible, the tempest was not offered as a 4-door hardtop until 1965.thanks. I am looking at a car that has this vin but no post. The 0 is for tempest but my understanding is that you could not get the tempest in a Hard Top (no post)
Thanks! its a 67, I thought I was loosing my mind. I would go check every few days to see if a block vin had magically appeared :shrug:The engine vin would be located on a machined pad running vertical next to the passenger side of the timing cover...... Ex. 28p123456 If your engine is pre late '67, there will be no vin....
If your car is an early 67 production the engine unit number under the letter code on the front of the block should be listed on the PHS billing history.Thanks! its a 67, I thought I was loosing my mind. I would go check every few days to see if a block vin had magically appeared :shrug:
I agree PHS is the best resource, but 64 and 65 GTO's built at the Pontiac and Kansas City plants can be identified as being true GTO's by a 5N located on the lower portion of the data plate.In 64 and 65 GTO was not its own Model, It was an option for the LeMans. There for you can not tell if its a GTO By the Vin as all GTO's and LeMans have the same Vin numbers other then the last numbers 6 numbers. The only real way to tell is to to go to PHS Automotive Services. Website: PHS Historic Services
What part of the stamped engine (six digit) unit number corresponds with the four digit (YS5373) PHS billing sheet. On the trans its very clear and an exact match tag code=PHS unit code. Date stamp on block, heads, and intake are all 04/14/1967 and the build date of the car on the PHS is 05/03/1967. As I stated before no block vin code. My understanding is that only the metal credit card that was a part of the original owners manual can prove the stamped engine unit number is correct for the car. If its not the original motor it's one hell of a coincidence that the replacement motor was cast less than 20 days before the car build, and as the second owner I can tell you I didn't swap the motor. Is there any other way to 100% prove the motor is original?If your car is an early 67 production the engine unit number under the letter code on the front of the block should be listed on the PHS billing history.