Pontiac GTO Forum banner

1 - 20 of 75 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
602 Posts
What is the A1 code? What about T in sequence after B?
The trim tag (which is what you posted a photo of) is stamped and affixed to the body when the body is made. Assembly of the body began during the first week of March (03A). The final assembly/invoice date would likely be 2nd or 3rd week of March....the Billing History Card provided by PHS (for a fee) will have the invoice date.

68-24237 is a 1968 GTO hardtop.

BT means the body was built at the Arlington Fisher plant. This means the car was almost certainly assembled at the GM final assembly plant in Arlington as well. If true....there will be an R in the 7th place of VIN for this car. In 1968, the Final Assembly plant in Arlington TX only assembled Chevrolet and Pontiac models.

Trim 225 should be for a Medium Red interior color.

A1 is exterior color. Black car with white/ivory Cordova top

That is about as far as we can go with the trim tag info. The PHS docs will show what options were ordered with the car. (Engine, trans, gauges, radio, wheels, etc)

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
45 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for info. What would this model in fair condition roughly go for with ws engine and 4 spd? Solid body but needs a lot of smaller items.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
602 Posts
Thanks for info. What would this model in fair condition roughly go for with ws engine and 4 spd? Solid body but needs a lot of smaller items.
WS is the HO engine option. With the 4 speed it is fairly desirable...next in line after the Ram Air models.

Market is soft right now. Hard to place value as I would not buy any car from areas prone to rust issues. I realize this severely limits my selection but I am tired of saving cars that live in those regions.



Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
45 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
No rust issues that I can tell. Hideaway lamps not working and I’m sure some body work will be needed.
Would 15 be too high for this with factory drivetrain?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
153 Posts
Sounds like a good deal, check to see if the engine is original by looking at the right hand side of the engine block. you will find the ws code plus a series of numbers this should match a portion of your VIN. If they match pay the money and smile inside.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
602 Posts
I need to go see it again to verify sequence but I think it’s legit. I’ll check it out today if I don’t lose it.
The number towards the top of the block near the WS stamp is the Engine Unit Number and has no relation to any part of the VIN. The partial VIN stamp would be on the same side of the block but down lower. Behind the lower radiator hose, usually stamped to be read sideways...near the timing cover.

By now, most all owners of classic Pontiacs are familiar with PHS service and should have those docs available to validate the car. If the seller is a widow or surviving family member then perhaps the PHS docs may be nearby....ask to see any receipts or records that may be on file. You might get lucky.

Alternatively, you can submit for your own copy of the factory invoice by sending a request to PHS directly. They offer a fax back service so you can get the info you need to make your purchase decision. The Engine Unit Number is usually listed on the Billing History Card so that would be another easy way to identify and validate if the engine is original to the car.

The HO engine should have cast iron header type exhaust manifolds. These are different from the log style found on the base engines. That would be something you want to look for during your next visit to see the car.

Good luck. Can't wait to see the pics!

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
45 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Ok I know where to look now so crossing my fingers it works out.
If it does workout then the next dilemma is color.
It currently has red interior with black top and red paint (very old) but I’ve learned here it should be black with white top and red interior.
I’m tempted to just redo the red with black top but not sure if it’ll hurt value much.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
It sounds good to me if the car meet the following conditions:

Solid Frame
Fair body (No rust, body filler)
Fair interior
Starts, runs and is drivable

Trust me I'm not critiquing but these things can get expensive so you want a good foundation to work with. For 15K it should be road worthy, it does not have to be a show car but at least solid.

Good luck, I hope it works out for you.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
45 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
I need to go see it again to verify sequence but I think it’s legit. I’ll check it out today if I don’t lose it.
The number towards the top of the block near the WS stamp is the Engine Unit Number and has no relation to any part of the VIN. The partial VIN stamp would be on the same side of the block but down lower. Behind the lower radiator hose, usually stamped to be read sideways...near the timing cover.

By now, most all owners of classic Pontiacs are familiar with PHS service and should have those docs available to validate the car. If the seller is a widow or surviving family member then perhaps the PHS docs may be nearby....ask to see any receipts or records that may be on file. You might get lucky.

Alternatively, you can submit for your own copy of the factory invoice by sending a request to PHS directly. They offer a fax back service so you can get the info you need to make your purchase decision. The Engine Unit Number is usually listed on the Billing History Card so that would be another easy way to identify and validate if the engine is original to the car.

The HO engine should have cast iron header type exhaust manifolds. These are different from the log style found on the base engines. That would be something you want to look for during your next visit to see the car.

Good luck. Can't wait to see the pics!

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
Any chance you have a pic of where that partial vin stamp would be? I can’t find it. There is a number by the ws stamp you mentioned and I can’t even make those numbers out either so I need a brighter light I guess. I confirmed the ws part but no vin number to connect them.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
88 Posts
Here's a jpeg taken from the Wallace site which shows location of engine unit number, ID and partial VIN.

Wallace Racing's Pontiac Engine Search

Also, as Shake and Bake said, the PHS docs are worth it b4 you spend the money, I used their expedited e-mail service twice recently for fast responses, the first car on Craigslist in New Hampshire the seller was claiming he had a disassembled judge turned out to be a base gto. When I confronted him with it he based his claim on his older brother telling him 20 years ago the car was a Judge. Then a week later I found a real judge verified again by PHS. Cost me $180 for 2 different searches but saved me from buying a phony judge


Good luck and post some pics if you buy it.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
45 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
Anyone have a pic of where partial vin is stamped on front of block? 68 400 ws
I did verify it has a Muncie in it so I think maybe original drivetrain
 
1 - 20 of 75 Posts
Top