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Using late model headlights with their brighter light and need for more electrical power frequently leads to the death of the original headlight switch. Th better way is to use a relay where the wire from the headlight switch is used to "turn on" the relay while a wire from the battery goes to the relay and then to the headlights to power them up; generally with much more brightness due to more power (none being lost going to and from the switch). Hopefully a member who has done this can guide you with the wiring layout on the relay.

As to brightness, I suspect they are all about the same due to federal guide lines (NHSTA).
 

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Anyone have recommendations on headlights. Wagner or Sylvania- which is brightest? Others?
I am researching the same thing for my 65 right now. I don't have any better answers but will be watching to see what advice you are given. I think the upgrade to halogen is the best we can do without relays and new wiring as mentioned above.
 

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Regular Halogen headlamps will plug right in where the old T3's used to be with no mods and no issues at all. Brighter light, they do NOT draw excessive current. No mods at all are necessary. Just plug and play. I run the original T3's in both of mine, but have friends who have been running the halogens for 35+ years with zero issues.
 

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I use relays on all my headlights and use Delta tech LED headlights...they look like original but are really bright.

I don’t like dim bulbs....
 

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I use relays on all my headlights and use Delta tech LED headlights...they look like original but are really bright.

I don’t like dim bulbs....
Do they rate the output ? I am about to just install the MAD Electric relay kit so the lights get a true 14V and thought that would suffice, but now I am wondering......Always something :grin2:
 

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Not sure what the amp is but LED are lower than normal....I use the MAD electrical system put an extra bus bar on front fender well, it gets direct power from firewall bus

Relays off that.....Full Power all systems all the time....

No dim bulbs
 

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Not sure what the amp is but LED are lower than normal....I use the MAD electrical system put an extra bus bar on front fender well, it gets direct power from firewall bus

Relays off that.....Full Power all systems all the time....

No dim bulbs
Would you post a picture of where you put the extra bus bar on the fender? Also how did you wire the lights? I am assuming you used the low and high leads from the light switch as the relay triggers and then new wires to the lights?

I am trying to NOT cut any of the original wires.

Thanks

Chris
 

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Can’t get you a photo right now, but the relay is just screwed into the inner fender for the bus bar mount.nThe headlight relays I behind the battery, on a frame mount.

The relay is wired as you describe. First, ground the relay, it is not grounded thru the mounting screw. Then your power wire from the switch goes to the trigger wire on the relay.

Now you have the 2 Main power connections on the relay, one goes to the headlight power, the other goes to your 12 volt power.....

It makes a big difference in your headlight power, as the power does not have to go thrust 20 feet of wiring under dash etc. just from your relay to headlight.
 

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here is a pic of the Bus-bar on the inner fender well. The red power wire comes from regulated power. The 3 green wires are from the headlights positive, the relay are on the frame behind the battery, see the pick. you ground the relay and the headlight, they can be together but not necessarily,..just good grounds.

it will improve all of your lights.
 
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