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RIP (12/27/60-7/18/15)
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767 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I have to use starting fluid to start my newly rebuilt engine.
I did my 20 min cam break in and turned the distributer so it ran the best.
me thinks it outta start right up immediately
what gives?
thanks as always
 

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64-67 Expert
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8,561 Posts
Not enough fuel. If you need to prime it to restart it, it's not getting gas. You have a carb issue: mixture not right, float setting too low (probable cause), etc. Does it start up if you pump the throttle a couple of times? Better yet, when you have the air cleaner off, shine a flashlight down the carb, pump the linkage, and see if gas squirts down the bores. If it does not, yu have a float level/accel pump problem. Since float level has a direct affect on every other circuit in the carb, I'd check that first. (If you know how, otherwise have an expert do it!!!) Or, like everything else you've done, get the manual out and become a carburetor expert yourself....not super hard, actually. You can pull the "top" off of the carb and set the float with the rest of the carb bolted on to the intake and full of fuel. Just be careful of those metering rods on the re-install.
 

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RIP (12/27/60-7/18/15)
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767 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
dam, I had the Carb Shop in CA rebuild it,,,,,,,,they sent it back to me and the car started for the 1st time.....YEA........but soon developed a leak at the throttle shaft.I sent it back, as it was still under warrantee
He said it was full of contaminated fuel. (the tank sat empty for 17 years till I poured 4 gallons of 100LL AVGAS in it).
Thus tomorrows trip to have the tank dropped cleaned and recoated.....
ps......gonna remove my jury rigged tank gee........after talking it over with my boss (wife) lol.........we agree "it aint a good idea"
 

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Premium Member
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4,703 Posts
Sounds like the carb to me also...ya gotta have clean fuel though. If it starts with starter fluid, then continues to run...you probably HAVE a good fuel supply. For a PROPERLY built Q-JET, look up Cliff Ruggles on the Performance Years forum...........OH, yeah, next time you disappear for weeks on end, "check in " once in a while!!! We were VERY worried! UE:rofl:
 

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RIP (12/27/60-7/18/15)
Joined
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767 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Roger that and ty UE.
I did indeed check with Mr Ruggles.
He has an 8 month backlog last time I checked.
This guy from "The Carb shop" is supposed to be the west coasts god of carbs
peace out!
 

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64-67 Expert
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8,561 Posts
Topkat,probably nothing wrong with the rebuild the local guy did. But, as you discovered, if you get a carb full of crud, it doesn't work. Do what you're doing: get the fuel system cleaned up, and send the carb to the Carb Shop with an explanation of what happened. He should charge you (it's not his fault) to pull it apart and clean it up, but it shouldn't cost an arm and a leg, and will be $$$ well spent. As an aside, I recommend a large, in-line fuel filter between the pump and the carb...or between the fuel line and pump.....the "in carb" filter is pretty small and delicate....and invites stripped out carb threads. That way, you can check/change your fuel filter in minutes by removing two hose clamps.
 

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3,931 Posts
NO AVGAS!!!.....highly oxygenated for burning at altitude, if you need octane find a place that sells 110 race gas...6.50 a gallon here. 4 gallons of that to 8 gallons of 93 will get you to around 99. And i use the same cheep clear filters down below the pump as GeeTee and a good edelbrock one before the carb, better to replace the 4 dollar ones than the 30 dollar one and it can't hurt to have it double filtered as there is a mechanical device (fuel pump) between them.
 

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RIP (12/27/60-7/18/15)
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767 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
TY Gee, I did send it back and he did a $100 carb clean for free since it was under warrantee.............and I have (and did have) a filter between the tank and the pump.
What's wrong with 100% 100LL?
When I run the motor it seems very happy....................:)
 
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