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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 69' GTO with a 400 engine and it has Hedman Headers. I just got the new gaskets in. Any advice on changing the gaskets, that might help me, so I don't run into any problems?? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Aaron
 

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Be sure you get EVERY piece of the old gasket off the head and header before installing the new gaskets. I once replaced gaskets on a big block Chevy, didn't take the header all the way out thinking this was a quick easy job. When I started it up it ticked a little, so I tightened the bolts a little more, and then a little more, but the ticking didn't go away. Pulled the header back off and found a small piece of the old gasket still stuck on there. BUT, since I had continued to tighten the bolts I bent the header flange and wound up buying a new set of headers as a result of my stupidity.
Also, I recommend the Fel Pro composite header gaskets. They are re-useable and last for years. I have a set on my Corvette that was on the first engine when I blew it in 2004, still sealing great on the new engine seven years later. Just put a set on the GTO last year.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I pulled the entire gasket off, but there is one issue. The bolt to the right of the center part of the header is impossible to unscrew and tighted. I realized that the reason I have a leak on both sides of my engine is because of this previous owner never tightened this bolt. Any ideas on how to get to that bolt. Should i shave a wrench down?
 

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I pulled the entire gasket off, but there is one issue. The bolt to the right of the center part of the header is impossible to unscrew and tighted. I realized that the reason I have a leak on both sides of my engine is because of this previous owner never tightened this bolt. Any ideas on how to get to that bolt. Should i shave a wrench down?
I went with ARP header bolts, which have a smaller head size. I think they use a 3/8" wrench, maybe 7/16"? Been too long, and I'm miles away from the car this weekend. If you want to stick with stock style bolts then I guess you'd have to shave the wrench head down, or you can try to dimple the header a little right where it meets the bolt.
 

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Allen Head bolt. They come in all shapes, sizes, and material. Like Stainless Steel. They are really handy for tight spots that you can't use an open end wrench on. I have some ball end Allen Keys that help with angles like that area your talking about. I would also use anti-seize on the threads. Any good supply store has the bolts. I like Tractor Supply for a chain store to buy bolts and screws from, because they are cheaper and sell by weight. I have a couple tool stores by me. That sell bolts, straps, and the such that are locally own that I like even better.
 

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I like likethat's solution. Personally, I have used shortened bolts sometimes, and I have ground down and bent "special" wrenches to do the job. You WILL be tightening them fairly regularly as part of the tubing header experience.
 
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