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Discussion Starter #1
Guess I didn't take it to heart when I read how much installing these sucks. Had to drop clutch linkage,starter,oil pump. Shim the motor 1/2 inch. Which in return made me have to grind down the front of my air cleaner to fit. Not even done yet have about 6 hrs into this nightmare.
 

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You have my sympathy. Today I installed the headers on my restoration project ('67 GTO) and starting with JUST A BARE FRAME it was much more difficult than I imagined. Hope things turn up for you.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Update done for day. Starter has to go. Think I have a mini high torque in storage hopefully. Silly me for thinking I could get It done painlessly in one day
 

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We speak from experience...:banghead: I just picked up a set of the ram air manifolds ceramic coated with downpipes for 350.00 and thats a bargain compared to having to re-install the headers again.
 

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Wow, my headers are no problem and I've got 2 1/8" primary's with 3 1/2 inch collector :confused. I needed a mini starter but everything else fits fine. Hell, 2 of my pipes go around the frame.




Oh yeah.....Chevy motor :bannana:
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I hear you alky, i got the supercharged chevy 572 in my shopping cart. Days like today make me want to click buy.
 

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Yeah, they're painful to mess with for certain, but they are vocabulary enhancers... :cuss:

I've -heard- (translation: no direct experience) that mad dog headers fit better.

When it's time to replace my Dougs, I might just try a set.

Bear
 

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if that is what its gonna take to install those headers, id put them back in the box. having to alter your air cleaner too? F**K that ! whoever designed those needs to find another job. im sure there are better fitting headers out there then that. what year gto?
 

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For you round port guys, check these out-

OBX Racing Sports SS Exhaust Manifold Headers 64 72 Pontiac GTO LeMans 326 455 | eBay

Thoughts? They are obviously off shore made but I've used OBX headers on my GTP GP and the quality and fit was top notch. And yes they were stainless steel and the welds were perfect. I think I would definitely try these if I was running the E heads or any round port head.

Honestly for a 400 inch D port engine I'm thinking RA manifolds are the way to go.

A big inch round port motor with an aggressive cam is gonna need headers though.
 

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Guess I didn't take it to heart when I read how much installing these sucks. Had to drop clutch linkage,starter,oil pump. Shim the motor 1/2 inch. Which in return made me have to grind down the front of my air cleaner to fit. Not even done yet have about 6 hrs into this nightmare.
I would definetly check the angle of your driveline, you may have altered it enough to change the pinion angle and induce vibration. Just a thought.

https://www.google.com/search?q=driveline+angles&rlz=1T4GGNI_enUS549US549&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=lpgQU-C-McPf2AW76ID4Ag&ved=0CCYQsAQ&biw=1391&bih=627
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Rickman it's a 69, with a 428. Headers are hooked who over the phone assured me no modifications would be needed. I am not concerned with the air filter, have new carb and intake on the way that will give me my clearance needed. The unexpected added cost for a new starter to replace my new starter sucks and the fact the the car is not on the road today probably a good thing it's actually raining in Los Angeles.
 

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I have dougs headers 1-7/8 primaries with 3-1/2 collector on my 67 lemans with a 400 and round port e-heads and had nonproblem at all with the fitment. The only problem i see is that ill have to remove the header to remove the motor mount bolts. I do have a mini starter though. Installation was pretty painless
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks for the link alky. I fought Nasty vibration when I 1st got the car. And in all my focus and choice words I didn't even thing about the driveline.
 

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The ones I have are Doug's and I bought them-still new-from the original buyer about a year ago. When I started my resto plans, I had them blasted clean and ceramic coated. As I had stated yesterday, I put them on as I dropped the newly rebuilt 400 onto my chassis. They sit OK near the frame on the driver's side, but there is one tube that sits hard on the frame on the passenger's side AND it's not going to allow for the trans cooling lines to follow the original route (and of course I have the nice pre-bent SS lines) PITA!! I guess I'll just make a set that will run along the oil pan out of strait brake line. As for the tube that hits the frame, I think it has a clearance dimple in its future. The new motor is looking sweet. Final paint tonight w/clearcoat, accessories going on. I'll post some pics soon. Oh yeah, I put on the stock 4-piston calipers and tried a 14X7 Ralley wheel (JA code) NO GO!! Rim hits the caliper.:eek2::banghead:
 

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I have found that a set of headers that according to manufacturer fit a broad range of applications are the ones to stay away from. headers that are made to fit more specific years seem to fit best with little or no modification. price will also give you a warning how much hair your gonna pull out installing them. ive read posts where brand new sets have had to have hammers taken to them to fit. that don't fly in my book. you've read this before but doug's are the best fit for Pontiac.
 

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Also makes a difference if auto or manual trans. Clutch linkage is one more ob-stack-el (a reference for the O'Brother, where art Thou? fans)

Many engine combos loose virtually no power with the RA manifolds, as was the case with my iron-head mild cam 455. I am in the process of adding a "mid-level" roller cam and KRE heads, and a worked/ported iron intake to that 455, and will be interesting to run another dyno session. I expect to see a larger variance with the headers on this combo, but will be interesting.

If not much dyno difference again, I will post the results to rub it in a little, but if there is a big difference, I will probably be the next guy installing a set of headers and pissing & moaning about it :)

With that said, it definitely sounds like something is not right if the engine has to be raised for the headers to fit!
 

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Just got the RAR manifolds in yesterday, they are the 2.5", nice looking pieces. guy had them jet coated. also included 2.5" stainless down pipes and the extensions for an X pipe also in stainless, got them for 350.00 + 80.00 packing and shipping
 

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Just got the RAR manifolds in yesterday, they are the 2.5", nice looking pieces. guy had them jet coated. also included 2.5" stainless down pipes and the extensions for an X pipe also in stainless, got them for 350.00 + 80.00 packing and shipping
Dang, i never seem to find those deals!
 
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