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Discussion Starter #1
I am at a loss and need some suggestions. Car was hard to start but would hesitate to stay on. At first thought it was the battery so I let the car run for a half hr charging and all of a sudden it shut off on its own and I haven't been able to get it started since. Replaced battery, alternator, upgraded to hei distributor with all new spark plugs and wires and still won't start. It cranks but won't turn over. Getting spark and fuel. Please let me know if you have any thoughts on what he problem might be.

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Will it run with starting fluid? Did you bypass the resistor wire when you went to the HEI distributor? Have you set the timing? Sure about the firing order and direction of rotation? Carb getting fuel?


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Discussion Starter #3
i'm getting spark and fuel to the carb. the firing order is right. i have the rotor pointing at the #1 chamber when it's fully compressed. but the timing notch on the harmonic balancer doesn't make it to the timing tab, falls short.
 

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If you have the original 326 that hasn't been apart you may find that the nylon timing gear has finally given out and your timing has slipped. Happened to me long ago. Had to take the engine out to clean out any nylon pcs from the oil pan.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Took it apart when I got home today to see if the timing gears where the issue like you suggested but it looks like they have already been replaced, it looks new. I just got the car a few weeks ago and it was running so idk why it would just stop. I did notice yesterday after looking up the firing order it did seem like it wanted to turn over the first click with feeding the carb but then didn't...also noticed a lot of backfiring through tailpipe and occasionally through carb. Got firing order from online which said thumb method to get tdc on #1 piston then cranked the harmonic balance to 0 and made sure the rotor was pointing towards 1st chamber. Did all that and the best I got was it sounding like it was going to turn over then after cranking agnition again would keep backfiring
 

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The thumb method can be deceiving. You can feel pressure on the exhaust stroke as well. I bet you are 180 off. Firing order is 18436572 with left (US drivers side) bank 1357 and passenger 2468. Distributor is counter clockwise rotation. This is different than Chevy so a lot of people get that wrong.


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In your attached picture, two of the distributors are clockwise and two counterclockwise. Yours should be counterclockwise. Same for Olds. Opposite for Chevy.

As to your question, 180 from 1 is number 6. What you can do is manual rotate the engine until the rotor is at 1 and the timing marks are aligned. You could use a sharpie to mark where on the distributor your rotor is pointing and the position of the distributor in relation to the motor. Then rotate the engine one revolution until the timing marks are aligned again. Now your rotor is at 6. Pull the distributor just enough to clear the gears and restab with the rotor pointing at 1. Set the timing and fire it up.


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Discussion Starter #9
Ok Rt-1 gonna give this a shot when I get home today. I will let you know how it goes. Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Rt-1 after checking the gears and putting everything back together I did what you suggested and turned counterclockwise 180 and it started. Had it running for about a min and noticed fuil line was leaking so I shut it off to tighten the line and now can't get it started again. Went back to the beginning and tried again still no success. It's definitely the timing I just can't figure it out. Can't believe I got it running and after shutting it off for just a few seconds can't get it to start up again.
 

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We're making progress! Do you have a timing light? I mark the pointer and balancer with a white marker. Makes it easier to see. I have mine set at 8 degrees BTDC. Also, you didn't tell me about your wiring. Voltage to the coil comes from the starter solenoid while cranking and through the resistance wire in run position. If you forgot to hook the wire from the solenoid up or didn't bypass the resistance wire it might be part of the problem.


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Discussion Starter #12
to clarify what i did, i removed the old f ignition coil and installed a hei distributor. it only requires a power wire from the starter solenoid to power it. the old style had two wires one connected to the ignition coil one to power it and the other went into the distributor to a resistor . i'm getting spark to the plugs , when it started up that one time it sounded good. just wish i timed it before i had to shut it off to fix the fuel leak . i can't understand why when i went back to the beginning doing what you suggested it won't start?? thanks for you time and patient.
 

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Aagghh. No. No. The power wire from the starter is ONLY powered when the key is in the start position and the starter is engaged. As soon as the engine starts and you drop the key back to run, that wire goes dead. That's when the voltage from the resistance wire takes over. On points ignition, you didn't want a full 12 volts all the time because it chewed up the points. In HEI you do want the full 12 volts. Start with hooking the resistance wire back into the same connection the starter wire is hooked to. We'll work on getting the bypass after you confirm it will run this way.


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Discussion Starter #14
I'm not sure what you mean by the resistance wire? There was only one wire going into the ignition coil and the other wire was connected to the old distributor which I threw out. Can you message me privately with a number to contact you so we can discuss??
 

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everyone needs one 2 of these

https://www.walmart.com/ip/8-In-Line-Ignition-Spark-Plug-Tester/108014904?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=2117&adid=22222222227041937907&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=101932557394&wl4=aud-310687322322:pla-252939823474&wl5=9033507&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=113148308&wl11=online&wl12=108014904&wl13=&veh=sem

for your lawn mower .... for your gto .... for your weed wacker ... for your neighbor ....

best 10.00 ever spent ..... almost .........

you can find all kinds of goods and bads with it ,... and save so much time and energy

Scott

buy a good one or at least on the cheapee dab some glue on the threads ,,, they like to pop apart ....
its a beeotch trying to find the spring in your gravel under the car ... ask me ......... ok .....
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Finally got it running timing is at about 18 BTDC is there anything else I need to do with the timing before I drive it?
 

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:nerd::nerd:mhyl2000,....so the best way is to find out what is the total centrifigal advance inside the distributor......

you can do that with a dial back timing light, or timing tape on the harmonic balancer......once you have either of those in place, then you can open the dist cap and remove the rotor and take one spring off one of the weights, don't lost it. Put the cap and rotor back on. Good to have a helper.

park or neutral, chock wheels, parking brake on,..disconnect vac advance and plug engine side vacumn at hose or engine.

Now while watching the timing mark rev up the engine, the timing will advance so far and then it will stop advancing.....that is your total advance,...your base setting without vac and your centrifigal together

......now subtract your base from that total, that is your centrifigal advance. lets say it was 42 and your base was 15....

subtract 15 from 42 and your centrifigal is 27.......now to get it right, set your base to the number that will give you a total of 36.................36 - 27 = 11.....that should be your base timing setting.

********************Put the spring back in....**************************

you said you had an HEI dist. then get a standard Motor Parts SMP VC 302 from Rock Auto......

It will pull in 10 degrees advance at the crank,...Make sure you hook the can to full manifold vac.

timing at idle near 20* with 10* from the vac can is good and will give good idle cooling and nice all around cruising and performance. you will lose nothing on the top end, as no vac with pedal all the way down.

you can change the springs on the distributor to bring the timing in sooner as well. But get you totals right and check for detonation, engine knock...if any dial the base back 2 * and retry.

with what you have just disconnect your vac and check base timing,....22 base is normally to high some racers do that but they know what is inside the dist and set accordingly.

set it up for street performance like I described, Racers at the track may do it a little different, but they know their cars and engines and make frequent adjustments.

good luck you are making great progress!
 
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