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Discussion Starter #1
hey so im getting a new clutch in my 05, adding headers and i'm all bolt ons, no crazy hp. 425-450 something like that
i was going to go with monster but the shop im getting the work through has encountered some real customer service issues w/ monster and monster wont send them anything less than 3 clutches, so i talked to him about spec clutches

im looking at the spec II SPEC Stage 2 Clutch - 2005-2006 Pontiac GTO (LS2) [SP-SC662] - $429.00$386.10 : MarylandSpeed.com- Your First Stop on the Way to Performance! it says good up to 550ft/lb which is plenty for me.
"Includes high clamp pressure plate, pure Kevlar friction material and high torque sprung hub and disc assembly."

i'd also get the aluminum flywheel(unless reason steel is better?)

my question is, anyone have exp w/ these clutches?
also where can i get a slave cyl since it doesnt come in the kit like monsters???

thanks for help :cheers
 

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Slave is $200+ for our cars. I've read that you can easily modify an f-body one that is 1/2 the cost. They can be found just about anywhere that sells parts.

I've heard mixed thing about Spec and great things about Monster. I also think Spec offers flywheels also.

Unless your looking to do alot more power then are estimate, Why not save a crap ton of money and just go with LS7 clutch/flywheel route?
 

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Slave is $200+ for our cars. I've read that you can easily modify an f-body one that is 1/2 the cost. They can be found just about anywhere that sells parts.

I've heard mixed thing about Spec and great things about Monster. I also think Spec offers flywheels also.

Unless your looking to do alot more power then are estimate, Why not save a crap ton of money and just go with LS7 clutch/flywheel route?

As far a spec i have hereard good thinbgs on there doubles.... As fasr as monster i just started hearing about them...

On that note go with the ls7 clutch combo
 

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I agree with those about the LS7 clutch for the amount of hp you have. If you do decide on the Spec, I would go with the Stage 3+. I had it in my car for 14k miles when I was putting down 485/505 at the rear wheels. I upgraded to the Monster 4 now that I am at 510/536. Ordered both through Marylandspeed with no issues. If you have questions, talk with Brandon.
 

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GTOAA 04-06 Technical Advisor
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For your power level I would recommend a lighter version of Monster. Go directly to them, I can give you a contact if needed, and take it to your shop. Or do it yourself. Being in the military tells me you can follow instructions, it is not a hard install.

I blew right through an LS7 clutch with my LS1 - not recommended. Remember, it is a stock clutch. Stock = compromise.

If you must go with the Spec, buy your slave at Autozone or the like. Buy a 2000 Firebird LS1 slave. Should be around $70. There are many articles on swapping it to a GTO slave online. Takes about 10 min max.
 

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I got a slave for a 2002 F-body and did the conversion. Easy to do, just need a small punch. I would recommend doing the steel braded clutch line and remote bleeder. Not required, but I think the bleeder is the must. I ordered mine from SNL Performance. Make sure when you buy a slave make sure it comes with the throw out bering.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
awesome info guys, I would go with the LS7 but im not sure how much more time that would take to find/figure so honestly just sooner better for me at this point and I think the spec is on the way already.

I've told them to do a new slave cyl but I didnt tell them about the ls1/fbody one, is a new slave cyl you'd buy from autozone or where ever going to fix the weak link of the stock one?
And I've asked them to do the remote bleeder and SS lines as well but I'm gonna call to double check it.

Thanks for the info.
 

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GTOAA 04-06 Technical Advisor
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Assembly by Perfection - Part 360058 - Advance Auto Parts

Here you go, I did your homework for you. $68 from Advance Auto. Just push out the pins and swap in your connections.

The slave is not the weak link in your clutch system. It is the line going to the slave. Replace it with a solid line.

and like I said in an earlier post, go with the Monster clutch. I personally have been through 4 clutches, and at least 3 times that in our club. Go with Monster.
 

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awesome info guys, I would go with the LS7 but im not sure how much more time that would take to find/figure so honestly just sooner better for me at this point and I think the spec is on the way already.

I've told them to do a new slave cyl but I didnt tell them about the ls1/fbody one, is a new slave cyl you'd buy from autozone or where ever going to fix the weak link of the stock one?
And I've asked them to do the remote bleeder and SS lines as well but I'm gonna call to double check it.

Thanks for the info.
Slave isn't a week link or anything, its just 3X the price it should be just cause its on the GTO. It is essentially the same parts as the fbody that is 1/3 the price and it takes a new minutes to convert to fix. It is just a standard part you should reaplace while do a clutch.

I'm planning on doing a remote bleeder and SS lines when my clutch dies.
 

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so a clutch isnt that hard to diy....I have pretty good wrench turnin skill.....bout to get a new clutch since mine is slippin, just dont want to pay for it if I can do it myself

Sorry to thread jack
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I've gone through my clutch break in period, started out a little fun but its working really well for me since. I had to go w/ the spec just because of a headache from the shop and monster not working well together.
I also would have done it myself for sure but I dont have the means, I did my camaro which is similar and it was really really easy.

So far i'd rate my spec clutch about a 9.5/10 for grab+hold
and about 8/10 for feel, the action on the clutch is at the verrry bottom of the pedal and isnt very long, good stiff feel but sucks in traffic.

overall 9/10 for my spec II clutch. but i woulda gone w/ monster if avail.

also wanted to add, adding a good stiff clutch is going to possibly bring out some other weaker links in the drivetrain(driveshaft carrier bushing for me) so be cautious.
 

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Good luck with it. I know some have been able to do OK with a Spec but I was one of many that had horrible luck with them. I got about 8k out of mine and had trouble along the way. The first thing I would have done was run from the shop that gave you the "three Monster clutches" story. Monster sells singly to anyone so there's an issue with the shop that they're not telling you or they could mark up the Spec higher. I'd also worry a bit about your clutch engagement point. One of the "features" of hydraulic clutches is they self-adjust just like your brakes because they work exactly the same way. You don't have your brakes engage at a different point from when they're brand new to when worn. It sounds like it wasn't bled correctly or enough. I wouldn't recommend that shop to anyone else.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Hmmm I'll have to look into that, I need to look up how to bleed it myself so I can do it.
 

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Hmmm I'll have to look into that, I need to look up how to bleed it myself so I can do it.
I have a remote bleeder which is well worth it as it makes it a lot easier and is by far the best way to change the fluid periodically. The picture below shows where the bleeder hole is. There is a long hex "nut" that comes right up to the hole. I believe it's 11mm. Feel above where the clutch line goes in (you can see that in the picture too.)

You just put a socket on it (be careful not to drop it in the bell housing or you will be pulling the trans to get it put) and very slightly loosen it. Have someone in the car push the clutch and hold it to the floor. Tighten the nut and then the person in the car can let the pedal go. Slightly loosen the nut and have them push and hold again, tighten the nut and release. Make sure during this that the tiny reservoir doesn't run out. It makes a mess as the fluid just runs down inside the bell housing and drips out but that's all there is to it. You may have to do it several times but you'll feel the engagement point come right up to the top.

 

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Discussion Starter #17
so pretty much same theory as bleeding brakes just a lot messier. lol. thanks man, good picture too.
 

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Spec Clutch Weird Noise

I just had a Spec stage 2 clutch installed. When i take off sometime I get a strange noise from the back area of my car. It's like when your first start to drive a manual automobile, and the car is stalling like it want me to move. I have plenty experience driving a stick(manual). When I give it more gas it goes away. Is this normal for a racing clutch? I have 200 miles on the clutch. Thanks anyone for advice.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
My clutch has had a different feel ever since as well. Seems like I get a little clutch bounce more now, and same as you, add more gas it goes away. If I had to guess, I'd point at the lighter weight flywheel adding to the change in driveability. but my driveshaft couplers are shot as well so.
Also you have a 'break-in' period of approx 500 miles so no hot doggin too much before that.
 
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