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Discussion Starter #1
I picked up a rear end out of a trashed Chevelle that needed some work. He said it wasn't original to the car and after getting it home and running the numbers found that its a 68-69 4 pinion Safe-t-Track with the nodular housing. 3.55 gears. I slapped it into my car and took it around the block. Bad pinion whine when coasting. Pinion preload had come loose. Also noticed the driver side wheel would wobble slightly. Figured a bent axle. Tore down the whole thing, cleaned up with new bearings and seals. Picked up an axle out of another nodular 10 bolt housing from a 69 Grand Prix. Tested the axle on the passenger side after installing new bearing and no wobble. Finished the rebuild, slid the axles in and went for a test drive. Still wobbling on drivers side. Swapped wheels and even drums. Still wobbles but only on the drivers side. Now questioning whether the original one was even bent. This is the first BOP axle I've had to work on so I figured I ask some Pontiac pros for their thoughts.

TLDR: driver side wheel wobbles even with new axle and different wheel.
 

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There are only a few factors that would cause a wheel to wobble. Since you have eliminated a bent wheel, & pressed a new bearing on an unworn axle, & still have wobble, you could totally eliminate an axle & the tested straight wheel from the equation by jacking up the vehicle, swapping the passenger side axle into drivers side of the rear & vice versa. If the drivers side wheel/tire still exhibit a wobble, I'm betting the cones are worn to such a degree in the 4 pinion carrier that there is some up & down movement at the inboard (splined) end of the axle. This is an oddity, won't see this with a single track carrier or a clutch type posi carrier.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Went out and swapped the axles this afternoon after I got home from work. Still wobbles only on the driver side. Didn't crack open the carrier when I did the rebuild because it would still spin both tires and no shop around here would touch it. Not sure where to go from here. Thought it would be a sturdy rear end for street use so the rebuild was no big deal. Only paid $80 for the whole rear end, don't know if I should dump another $400 for a new auburn unit, or just try to find a 12 bolt locally.
 
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