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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey everyone,

I just picked up this 1968 GTO from Sacramento. The car was originally built in Fremont by Pontiac.

Factory build sheet:
GTO
Auto trans
Radio pushbutton & manual antenna
Rear seat speaker
Rally 2 wheels
Console
Power steering
Power brakes
Glass soft ray all windows
Custom A/C
G77X14 Redwall tires
Cameo Ivory paint
Red interior
Hard top
400 engine
$4259

I paid 3500 for it as it sits. Its been robbed of the original engine and trans. I have the hood, doors, body, and trunk, dash, front and rear seats, a lot of bad condition interior pieces, and a clean title. There is pinhole rust on the floor boards near the pedals and where the seat mounts, and under the rear seat. The trunk is pretty rotted out too. I have new sheet metal coming, whole floor and trunk, and mini tubs. Since this can't be a numbers matching car my plans are as follows:
Keep cameo ivory (white) paint
Change interior to black
All chrome mouldings to be painted flat black or treated (open to advice, want the coating to last)
Body colored white painted front and rear bumper, valance
335 tires on black 11×17 trims
Wilwood 4 wheel disc brakes, adjustable distribution
Butler 472 pontiac crate motor with ezfi, 700hp/700+ tq
T56 magnum 6 SPD, manual conversion
Open to suggestions on aftermarket clutch
12 bolt, need good advice on rear end for 700hp and 700 tq
I would like to get some custom 17x11 rally 2s made maybe. Doesn't look like they go that wide yet, Haha
I also want to rig up the air filter to seal to the hood for ram air even though it wasn't a ram air car.
Today I pulled the cracked front windshield off and tossed it, pulled interior out, vacuumed it, took off/picked apart falling apart headboard and insulation, and removed the factory AC fiberglass inner and outer housing from the firewall.

Pretty soon I'm going to have it media blasted and see what kind of horrors the primer is hiding. However we thoroughly checked it with a magnet and the shell is surprisingly solid with no major bondo. My main concern is the roof, and one rear window corner has a dime sized hole rusted through.
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Any advice or tips much appreciated and carefully considered. Thank you
 

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1967 400/400
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As for my advice, if you have deep pockets, then your plan is pretty good! I'd go with a tremec TKX kit though... $5500 for EVERYTHING you need, including clutch, slave, bellhousing, pedals, etc.

However, personally, looking at the volume of resto work you have ahead of you, I might be inclined to go a bit more conservative on the drivetrain. You can probably save at least $5k (likely more), and come out of it with a very potent car, and $5000 to put toward carpet, seals, gaskets, bolts, wires, weatherstripping, fuses, bulbs.... Otherwise, you may find yourself spending more to build the car, than you could go and buy a numbers matching car for.

It's just my opinion. I dont know your financials
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
As for my advice, if you have deep pockets, then your plan is pretty good! I'd go with a tremec TKX kit though... $5500 for EVERYTHING you need, including clutch, slave, bellhousing, pedals, etc.

However, personally, looking at the volume of resto work you have ahead of you, I might be inclined to go a bit more conservative on the drivetrain. You can probably save at least $5k (likely more), and come out of it with a very potent car, and $5000 to put toward carpet, seals, gaskets, bolts, wires, weatherstripping, fuses, bulbs.... Otherwise, you may find yourself spending more to build the car, than you could go and buy a numbers matching car for.

It's just my opinion. I dont know your financials
As for my advice, if you have deep pockets, then your plan is pretty good! I'd go with a tremec TKX kit though... $5500 for EVERYTHING you need, including clutch, slave, bellhousing, pedals, etc.

However, personally, looking at the volume of resto work you have ahead of you, I might be inclined to go a bit more conservative on the drivetrain. You can probably save at least $5k (likely more), and come out of it with a very potent car, and $5000 to put toward carpet, seals, gaskets, bolts, wires, weatherstripping, fuses, bulbs.... Otherwise, you may find yourself spending more to build the car, than you could go and buy a numbers matching car for.

It's just my opinion. I dont know your financials

Nice idea however from my experience working on my dad's 73 Formula 455, 2.66 1st gear would be a lot better.As far as value and resale value, this is just going to be a car that is for me, not going to ever worry about getting resale value, just want to build a wicked fast GTO. I can't let old man beat me ;) If any of you are going to hot august nights in reno coming up we'll be there, I basically need everything for the car so if anyone has some extra parts and wants to meet, that would be helpful!!
 

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Where in the Sacramento area are you? Planning a trip in August to Oregon, have some red interior parts and other 68 stuff.
 

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Welcome. Sounds like a great build. Looking forward to updates.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Where in the Sacramento area are you? Planning a trip in August to Oregon, have some red interior parts and other 68 stuff.
Hi Ed,
I am actually looking for black interior pieces I think for this build but I'd love to see what you got. I'm located in Oakley CA can dm you more info or follow @j.augusts on Instagram and we can dm there too. Would be cool for you to swing by regardless, never met a car guy I didn't like yet haha. Pontiac guys are just different.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Pulled out the dash today, took off the trunk, scraped some of the big firewall goop off, checked out the salvageability of the red interior (some pieces are pretty good), took off the driver and passenger door weather channel mouldings, and all the interior headliner moulding/stamped sheets. Tomorrow I'm going to drill some small alignment holes through the door hinges as the doors sit perfect before taking them off and taking the glass out. Any advice on glass removal would be appreciated. Then next week I'll be removing the power steering box, steering column, pedal assembly, trunk hinges, and taking the body off the frame. I'm in the market for a rotisserie if anyone has a decent one!
 

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Wow, you work fast. I suggest you label and bag stuff if you plan to reuse them. Before pictures are helpful too when you are putting it back together
 

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Welcome, got to love the 68. On converting over to a black interior. You may find the red color grow on you. We picked up a 67 Tempest a few years back with a blue interior. We didn't care for the blue at all and our goal was to convert it to black. As time went on, a bit of cleaning, a bit of repair, the blue grew on us. Now we wouldn't have it any other color. Years ago a friend of mine had a 67 white Lamans with a red interior. What a sharp combo. I also have a 65 Barracuda with red interior and you wouldn't believe the complements on the color.

Jim
 

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Buy couple hundred zip lock sandwich, qt and gallon bags. As you disassemble each component put the parts, screws etc in the bag with a post-it note what it is and where its located (left, right xxx) Plastic coffee cans are great for holding various screws and stuff. Photograph everything you remove from different angles.

Reach deep down into the cowl air intakes and remove all the mud, dirt, leaves or in my case, 6" of sawdust from when my mom worked at the mill, thats blocking the rocker channels. Remove rubber plugs from back of rocker channel and flush.

If you plan to blast the body, tape up every opening in the body. You'll never get the sand out even years afterwards if you don't.

Unless damaged, I recommend leaving the doors on. Trunk hinges are welded on

I was lucky. My car was from the upper Sacramento Valley near Redding. Very minor rust under the front fender rocker molding, otherwise rust free, so all was needed was to sand the original paint and rework the couple boo-boos that happened over the previous 50 years.

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Buy a Fisher Body manual and the 69 Assembly manual, the expensive one $38-55. The cheap $25 AM is worthless.
Fisher body explains how to remove the glass. It's easy to remove, PIA to reinstall correctly.


Could you provide a photo of your Fisher Body plate? VIN isn't necessary.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Updates: Removed all the glass, sandblasted the quarters and firewall, found a few patches of rust around rear lower quarters. Doors appear to be totally fine no holes. One door previously hit and one rear quarter had been hit but expertly repaired and unwrinkled using pre stud methods using holes drilled and beat out. Do I need to modify the inner wheel well if I want to run 335s? They are 13.2 inches, looking at the rear quarters I may need to fold the quarters a but but otherwise they appear to fit and not need a tub kit. The wheel wells on the GTO is massive I was pleasantly surprised. I cut most of the trunk out with a grinder, as it was swiss cheese rust.
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