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Discussion Starter #1
What's the secret to getting the wipers to continue their last sweep and then stop on the lowered position after turning the switch off?

I have to keep turning mine on and off to get the arms down to lay on the horizontal plane.

I used search but didn't find an answer.

Thank you.
AZ
 

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This is supposed to be an automatic function of the wiper motor. There's a mechanism inside it that operates a relay, such that when the switch is turned off it will continue to feed power to the motor until a cam rotates to the right position to open a set of points and stop the motor. If yours isn't working that way, then I'd say the most likely cause is that either the motor is wired incorrectly (try reversing the connector), there's a problem in the wiring harness itself, or that mechanism inside the motor has failed.

Bear
 

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Discussion Starter #3
This is supposed to be an automatic function of the wiper motor. There's a mechanism inside it that operates a relay, such that when the switch is turned off it will continue to feed power to the motor until a cam rotates to the right position to open a set of points and stop the motor. If yours isn't working that way, then I'd say the most likely cause is that either the motor is wired incorrectly (try reversing the connector), there's a problem in the wiring harness itself, or that mechanism inside the motor has failed.

Bear
Thanks Bear...........I'll see if I can reverse the connector.........I'll start there
 

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It is nothing as drastic as the motor being wired incorrectly or the mechanism going bad. It is just a bad ground. One of your three mounting screws has a small ground strap that is attached directly to the wiper motor. Remove that mounting screw and make sure you don't have any paint or surface rust on the washer or the screw or the strap. The strap is roughly 1/2" wide by 1" long and is on the bottom mounting hole. The ground is what allows the wipers to return to "park" position.
 

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It is nothing as drastic as the motor being wired incorrectly or the mechanism going bad. It is just a bad ground. One of your three mounting screws has a small ground strap that is attached directly to the wiper motor. Remove that mounting screw and make sure you don't have any paint or surface rust on the washer or the screw or the strap. The strap is roughly 1/2" wide by 1" long and is on the bottom mounting hole. The ground is what allows the wipers to return to "park" position.
Alright...now that's a suggestion I can try.............stay tuned for an update.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I made the assumption that if it was a ground problem, the motor wouldn't run at all but yes, it's always important to verify your grounds.

Bear
Thanks for the post Bear...I need to remove the arm and pull the motor from the firewall and see if there is a strap for a ground or what?

I received boxes of parts for this car, some as small as a zerk fitting. I can attest the former owner knew how to take a car apart but not so much how to put things back together....and nothing is labeled.
I just had a friend of mine find my vibration in the drive line. Turns out there are 2 C clips that go behind 2 of the caps that lock the U joint in. Thankfully hard mud was all that kept the U joint caps from working out from under the straps.:eek2:

I come home and find 2 C clips in the bucket of parts...........so.....maybe there's some sort of ground strap that the previous owner removed and never replaced. He never put grounding straps back on from engine to firewall. All this is making me check every nut and bolt on the vehicle.

Thanks again..........I'll let you know what and if I find anything.:thumbsup:
 

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Thanks for the post Bear...I need to remove the arm and pull the motor from the firewall and see if there is a strap for a ground or what?

I received boxes of parts for this car, some as small as a zerk fitting. I can attest the former owner knew how to take a car apart but not so much how to put things back together....and nothing is labeled.
I just had a friend of mine find my vibration in the drive line. Turns out there are 2 C clips that go behind 2 of the caps that lock the U joint in. Thankfully hard mud was all that kept the U joint caps from working out from under the straps.:eek2:

I come home and find 2 C clips in the bucket of parts...........so.....maybe there's some sort of ground strap that the previous owner removed and never replaced. He never put grounding straps back on from engine to firewall. All this is making me check every nut and bolt on the vehicle.

Thanks again..........I'll let you know what and if I find anything.:thumbsup:
On my car there was only one ground strap from the firewall to the back of the head and it had been replaced with a piece of #12 single strand.
I ordered the ground strap kit which came with 3 straps and hardware.
I think one of the other ones goes from the frame to the firewall on the passenger side but I have no idea about the 3rd one.
I have the engine out and found one of the bolts that holds the PS pump to the bracket in the tranny pump.
The 3 that hold the torque converter to the flex plate was a merry mix up from who knows where.
I ordered the correct ones from Ames.
Same with the PS pump cupped, washer missing and some Home Depot bolts so I ordered the bolt kit for that.
Timing cover was a mess, metric bolts in there and when I pulled the pump the threads came out with it.
I don't know who the clown was that worked on this car but if he didn't use the wrong bolt he stripped out threads.
I had to use 2 Keenserts in the tranny and order all new bolts and washers.
If you have never used these give them a try you will never go back to helicoils.

Keensert
 

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Discussion Starter #9
On my car there was only one ground strap from the firewall to the back of the head and it had been replaced with a piece of #12 single strand.
I ordered the ground strap kit which came with 3 straps and hardware.
I think one of the other ones goes from the frame to the firewall on the passenger side but I have no idea about the 3rd one.
I have the engine out and found one of the bolts that holds the PS pump to the bracket in the tranny pump.
The 3 that hold the torque converter to the flex plate was a merry mix up from who knows where.
I ordered the correct ones from Ames.
Same with the PS pump cupped, washer missing and some Home Depot bolts so I ordered the bolt kit for that.
Timing cover was a mess, metric bolts in there and when I pulled the pump the threads came out with it.
I don't know who the clown was that worked on this car but if he didn't use the wrong bolt he stripped out threads.
I had to use 2 Keenserts in the tranny and order all new bolts and washers.
If you have never used these give them a try you will never go back to helicoils.

Keensert
Maybe the same guy owned both our cars......I found the wrong transmission mount bolts used.....I thought THAT was my vibration. It cured some but not all. With the 2 C clips reinstalled that problem is solved. But like you, I find all sorts of fasteners used in the wrong places...
It's fun when I find the right part or bolt in the boxes of parts, frustrating when I can't find item specific bolts like the ones for the wiper motor to the firewall install. The former owner probably used them on his Toyota.....:banghead:
 

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Discussion Starter #10
car but if he didn't use the wrong bolt he stripped out threads.
I had to use 2 Keenserts in the tranny and order all new bolts and washers.
If you have never used these give them a try you will never go back to helicoils.

Keensert
I watched the Keensert video, pretty cool...........how's the cost versus helicoil?

For some items I will have the no expense spared mentality, for simple ones, I like to save for future costs.............
 

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I watched the Keensert video, pretty cool...........how's the cost versus helicoil?

For some items I will have the no expense spared mentality, for simple ones, I like to save for future costs.............
I have no idea what they cost, I went to see my parts guy to get helicoils and he gave me a few samples to try.
I didn't have the tool to set the keys but in aluminum a concave punch worked just fine.
 

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These are pics of my spare 66 wiper motor. The ground is permanently mounted to the wiper motor. Insulators are affixed to all 3 mounting holes to protect the wiper from vibration. The ground is riveted at one end directly to the steel wiper housing while the other end is sandwiched under the steel grommet, usually the bottom mounting hole. The mounting screw transmits ground from the firewall to the grommet, (or washer, as it looks like,) through the ground "strap" to the wiper motor housing. Make sure you have good clean contact between the screw head and the grommet. Hope this helps fix the problem.

I had the same problem a couple of years ago, it took me about a month before I figured out it was the ground.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
These are pics of my spare 66 wiper motor. The ground is permanently mounted to the wiper motor. Insulators are affixed to all 3 mounting holes to protect the wiper from vibration. The ground is riveted at one end directly to the steel wiper housing while the other end is sandwiched under the steel grommet, usually the bottom mounting hole. The mounting screw transmits ground from the firewall to the grommet, (or washer, as it looks like,) through the ground "strap" to the wiper motor housing. Make sure you have good clean contact between the screw head and the grommet. Hope this helps fix the problem.

I had the same problem a couple of years ago, it took me about a month before I figured out it was the ground.

AHAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! so...there's the ground!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:banghead::banghead::banghead:
Fantastic.......:thumbsup:......they say a picture is worth a thousand words and here's the proof.........:wink2:...I have the square motor and the previous spray paint happy owner must have just sprayed over it................
ALL THE TIME LIKE MY NOSE IT'S RIGHT IN FRONT OF MY FACE!!!!!!!:lol:

BLESS YOU GTOGUY389...............:patriot:
 
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