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Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone. Happy Easter! I just installed a new turn signal switch on my 66 Tempest and I’m so happy I figured it out. Reconnected the battery, got in and the turn signals worked. I then went to start the car and nothing. It didn’t even turn over. What did I do wrong? I’m thinking I didn’t get the column gear shift in the right position so that it wont slip into Park. Does this car only start when the shifter is in Park? I didn’t think it did. Please advise and thanks!
 

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Must be in Park or Neutral. Try starting the car while moving the shifter slightly.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Might have killed the battery with the door open.
I thought about that but i'm getting full electric. Dash lights, interior lights work fine. Could the battery still be so low that it's not turning the engine over?
 

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I thought about that but i'm getting full electric. Dash lights, interior lights work fine. Could the battery still be so low that it's not turning the engine over?
Turn your interior lights on then your headlights, if they go down then your battery could be down enough
 

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I thought about that but i'm getting full electric. Dash lights, interior lights work fine. Could the battery still be so low that it's not turning the engine over?
Yes. With a low/ dead battery, you can have full, bright interior lights and radio, but no start at all. I just went through it myself. Testing a battery is the only way to know if it's good. As for diagnosing your issue, without testing the battery, you could run a continuity test on the neutral safety switch, but they don't go bad very often, and thats way more difficult than testing the battery first.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Yes. With a low/ dead battery, you can have full, bright interior lights and radio, but no start at all. I just went through it myself. Testing a battery is the only way to know if it's good. As for diagnosing your issue, without testing the battery, you could run a continuity test on the neutral safety switch, but they don't go bad very often, and thats way more difficult than testing the battery first.
Yeah, I’m going to check the battery for sure and the neutral safety switch as well. That’s what a friend recommended. He thinks I might have loosened a wire to it. Where is that located? I read on a thread here that for an automatic on the column it’s under the dash on the left side along the firewall.
 

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CONFIRM YOU HAVE 12 VOLTS AT THE STARTER . WITH THE IGN IN THE ON POSITION . YOU MUST HAVE A 12V OR CLOSE TO 12V AT THE S TERM OF THE STARTER . THIS IS USALLY A PURPLE WIRE . . THEN WORK BACK .
IF YOU DONT HAVE 12 V AT THE S TERM WITH IGN ON (THATS YOUR PROBLEM).SEE IF YOU HAVE 12 V AT THE BATTERRY STUD OF THE STARTER . THEN CHECK THE CABLES BACK TO THE BATTERY & YOUR GROUND CABLE .. IF ALL CONNECTIONS
ARE GOOD AND THE BATTERY IS HOT . CHECK THE IGN SWITCH . OR YOUR COMPLETE WIRING CONNECTION
AT THE COLUM . (THE ADVISE ABOVE FOR THE NUETRAL SAFTEY SWITCH IS ALSO A GOOD CHECK )

A LITTLE TEST LIGHT CAN DO THE TRICK .
 

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Yeah, I’m going to check the battery for sure and the neutral safety switch as well. That’s what a friend recommended. He thinks I might have loosened a wire to it. Where is that located? I read on a thread here that for an automatic on the column it’s under the dash on the left side along the firewall.
Clean the posts and terminals before you do anything, give the battery a charge and try it
 

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I had a similar issue on my 69 when I pulled the dash to do some work. Took it all apart, put it back, and nothing when I hit the key. Tried everything turned out to be the rod coming off the key to the ignition switch got bumped just a bit and wouldn’t allow the key to move the rod far enough to engage the ignition. I know the ignition switch is different between a 65 and 69 but I bring this up to look into things the may have been bumped or moved in the disassembly process. Mine moved maybe a fraction of an inch but was enough to not allow full engagement.

I even had an issue where my neutral safety switch got bumped as well and wouldn’t allow it to start on a different occasion.

If you can’t tell I’ve had this problem occur multiple times with different causes of the problem. Trial and error is the only way to find what happen. Good luck and keep us updated!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I had a similar issue on my 69 when I pulled the dash to do some work. Took it all apart, put it back, and nothing when I hit the key. Tried everything turned out to be the rod coming off the key to the ignition switch got bumped just a bit and wouldn’t allow the key to move the rod far enough to engage the ignition. I know the ignition switch is different between a 65 and 69 but I bring this up to look into things the may have been bumped or moved in the disassembly process. Mine moved maybe a fraction of an inch but was enough to not allow full engagement.

I even had an issue where my neutral safety switch got bumped as well and wouldn’t allow it to start on a different occasion.

If you can’t tell I’ve had this problem occur multiple times with different causes of the problem. Trial and error is the only way to find what happen. Good luck and keep us updated!
I am in the process of removing the neutral safety switch and I was able to get one screw out. The other screw is more of a problem. It’s loose and turning but won’t come out of the hole. Is there a nut or something holding it in the hole? It’s incredibly frustrating as I keep turning and turning and it won’t come out. Please advise!
 

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I am in the process of removing the neutral safety switch and I was able to get one screw out. The other screw is more of a problem. It’s loose and turning but won’t come out of the hole. Is there a nut or something holding it in the hole? It’s incredibly frustrating as I keep turning and turning and it won’t come out. Please advise!
I’m unaware of any type of nut for it, more than likely it’s just stuck somehow. Try and get a small standard screwdriver under the switch or the screw itself. Most of the time a bit of pressure will allow the screw to bite on and back out.
 
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