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RIP (12/27/60-7/18/15)
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767 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Do I need to put sealand on the waterpump housing to intake manifold O ring?
thanks as always
 

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67 Basket Case Restorer
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2,717 Posts
Silicone and rubber don't usually stick well. If you use the silicone, clean the matting surfaces to sterile with denatured alcohol or acetone. ANY oil film will prevent silicone from adhering.

I like to have the water pump installed first and leave the intake bolts slightly loose. Then use the water pump bolt to pull the intake forward a little to lightly compress the O-ring seal. Just a firm, snug, pressure on that bolt will be enough, or things will break or strip.
 

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173 Posts
We use a "dab" of Permatex "Aviation" to hold the o-ring in place (in the intake) while droping it onto the engine.

Agreed with the process.

Jim
 

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64-67 Expert
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8,569 Posts
Also, a little anti-sieze on that long thin bolt is always a great idea. Not too tight, and it's the first one you tighten.
 

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RIP (12/27/60-7/18/15)
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767 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
It occures to me that i painted both surfaces that the TC cover to intake manifold rubber grommet mates.:eek:
Hoping I dont have to scrape the dam paint off and contaminate the water pump and intake manif?
thanks all
 

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It occures to me that i painted both surfaces that the TC cover to intake manifold rubber grommet mates.:eek:
Hoping I dont have to scrape the dam paint off and contaminate the water pump and intake manif?
thanks all
Ifn' it was me, I would. Jam a piece of rag or somthing into both the holes to keep the paint chips from getting in, then use the rubber washer to mark the circles, then use some sandpaper or a gasket scraper to take the paint off just where the washer sits. It'll "probably" be ok with the paint, but as easy as it is to fix, why take the chance?

Bear
 

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64-67 Expert
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8,569 Posts
I think it will be okay with the painted surfaces, too. As stated, pretty easy to remove, just don't gouge the aluminum....paint remover or carb cleaner maybe??
 
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