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Discussion Starter #1
ok- my first project was to remove the seats, console and carpeting to see what condition the floor was in. i have some rust, and an actual hole under the drivers feet. After looking into what it would cost to change colors from gold to black, i'm thinkin i may stay with the gold. i will still need to do the seat plastics and covers. What or how do i order the underlayment that was under the jute backing? its like an asphalt matt maybe an 1/8" thick with paper backing. the catalog i am looking through refers to "cardboard package tray" or "mesh package tray" - but neither of those sound like it describes what was in there. Is there another name for it - or is it just the practice to use one of the cardboard or mesh types, assuming that "package tray" means what you lay the carpet on. i can see having changed it - the other stuff had to add 30 pounds to the car.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
nevermind - that was the Ames catalog - The PY Catalog has the "original tar based paper backed" underlayment - so that answers that question :p
 

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They've come a long way in 40 years with "carpet underlayment". There are new products available for heat and noise abaitment from companies like Dynamat, and they can be applied to the floors and any other interior surface. :cheers
 

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don't use the factory stuff, use either Dynamat, or they have a spray on, think it is "Snakeskin", or the stuff i used was from NPD (don't have GTO catalog yet but the Chevelle one has a lot of our parts) they just have it listed as "quality heat shield and sound deadener" i needed two rolls, stuff is tougher than it looks
and don't use the wifes good scissors to cut it.....lol, good luck and post some pics of your new toy, PS package tray is the shelf under the back window
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Will do - i'm trying to keep a better "work in progress" record this time, so i'm taking alot more pictures.
i'm just trying to be cautious, i really dont want to do anything to ruin the car from a restoration perspective, so hoping you guys will be patient with my questions and offer advice from that point of view.
I'm pretty exited about this project and have been known to go off half cocked before and spoil things.
 

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There are a ton of options out there that are better than the old asphalt mat. Dynamat, Hushmat, Frost King (from Lowes), etc. etc. Frost King is cheap at $20 per roll...will take 2+ rolls to do the whole floor pan. Check out Crustysack's '65 build on this forum..he did a heck of a job insulating his ride. Good luck.
 

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Glad this topic came up. I just order a "carpet kit" from OPG, and it came with this tar paper factory stuff. When I opened the box I deceided I didnt want to use that. So if you deceide you want to use it I will sell this to you. Its still in the box. Otherwise Im gonna see if I can ship this stuff back.
 

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I just picked up the 1/4' thick silver stuff. They were selling a 4X8 roll for $15, or 4X60 for $45! So, me and a guy split a roll and I got 4X30 for $22.50!
I saw a cool sound deadener at a dif show, a 1" piece dulled a cymbal. Guy said you tap on the surface, if it rings, stick a piece on it, cool stuff. But $39 for a 1'X1' sheet!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
how about rust arrester, or inhibitor or whatever.
, say i was to get the motor out - could i use it on the frame rails without sanding them to bare metal - and then paint over it and expect it to last more than a week without falling apart?
 

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how about rust arrester, or inhibitor or whatever. say i was to get the motor out - could i use it on the frame rails without sanding them to bare metal - and then paint over it and expect it to last more than a week without falling apart?
POR 15 is designed for that. Get the heavy scale off of it and paint it with por15 and it should stop the rust! Just use the kit, check out the website for details. I POR everything!
 

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wire brush assortment attached to drill or die grinder will make short work of it and let you get in the crevaces, you dont want to grind down to bare clean metal with Por
 

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:agree
POR doesn't like smooth metal and will peal off supposedly. It wants a rougher surface that it can bite into.
The body shop I go to had a few issues with rust coming back out, so the last truck the body guy did he por'd the entire Truck bed, top, sides and bottom, then painted from there.
 

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just getting ready to prep the insides of trunk lid and hood have to get around the edges and between the bracing, wire bits worked great on floor pans except for one small area that i sanded all the way down, when i tried tacking down my isulation sound deadener it pulled up sprayed it with black epoxy primer and re-glued it, will DA the flat areas though so not to heat them up, and they are just a little scale, will give me a chance to play with spraygun and paint a bigger area with the new paint.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Well - since i really dont want to have to sand to bare metal - i'll drop the bucks on the POR. They aint given those kits away are they :p

i got some parts in too - man, the picture of the patch for the drivers floor sure looked smaller than what showed up on my doorstep! its like a quarter of the entire floor. hehe.

the carpets on back order, but i did get the dash pad and the new insert for the dash panel. i just need some direction for a real chrome paint. tried two cans that claim to be chrome, but are really just silver paint - any leads?
 

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no such animal, tried Chrome FX to no avail, best bright silver i have found is rustoleum silver metallic has a tricycle on the front, thats what i used on mine, only way to chrome dash is to chrome whole panel and then black everything but edges out and as you might imagine that could get REAL expensive, just spray some in the lid and do gauge edges with small detail brush, i used to do chrome foil stamping, with the right equipment could do just the facing edges in chrome foil, but again for a "one off" it would be costly, and labor intensive on such and odd shaped part.
 

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Well - since i really dont want to have to sand to bare metal - i'll drop the bucks on the POR. They aint given those kits away are they :p
A quart will do an entire frame or floor pan, so not really that bad for piece of mind.
POR-15, brush on, chisel off.. Many copy, none achieve.. If oxygen can't get to it, it can't rust..
Damn, I should send them that for a moto, may make a few bucks..:cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #20
http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa328/1968LeMansGuy/newproject2.jpg and http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa328/1968LeMansGuy/newproject.jpg , but it doesnt quite look like that at the moment.

so initial color was that pee green "verdero" with ivy gold interior - ive already committed to the ivy gold, since i really dont want to have to do the headliner and the entire rest of the interior. Question is that pee green is about the only color i can think of that would make gold interior acceptable, other than white or possibly black. or am i just being shortsighted ? i was thinking the darker green might be ok, since green and gold were my high school colors - im just wondering how it would look on a car, it looked fine on a cheerleader :)
 
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