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Yes man definitely a SB is a dream !!! I once fully restored a CJ5 Jeep, and my Job Site allowed me to use their SB Cabinet during off work hours, it definitely was GREAT !!! I am getting one, a very small one for parts of less than one foot square or so. This first Chapter is two things, Revovering every single part that belongs to the GTOs, and fixing the brakes so I can drive the car Home from Dads Home, ( 4 hours ), then I will be actually restoring stuff, a SB is A MOST !!! The reason I want to fix the brakes first, is that the car will not be stopped for repairs, it will be kept usable, no job should take more than a week so I can go back riding it next weekend, thats my goal and only way, otherwise I will not do it.
evapo rust works pretty good.and vinegar for removing rust on small parts. if you use the vinegar make a mixture of baking soda and water to neutralize the acid. you can do this while working on something else. evapo rust just follow the instructions. it might save you some blasting.but a blast cabinet is a wonderful thing. have fun man.
 

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evapo rust works pretty good.and vinegar for removing rust on small parts. if you use the vinegar make a mixture of baking soda and water to neutralize the acid. you can do this while working on something else. evapo rust just follow the instructions. it might save you some blasting.but a blast cabinet is a wonderful thing. have fun man.
on the baking soda and water solution that is after soaking in the vinegar.
 

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Front disc conversion is a no brainer for a car you intend to drive. No need to go with disc on the rear unless you plan to race or rally cross it. Mine had drum on the front when I got it. I know that others have been running drums forever but the brake characteristics were just too unpredictable for my taste. There was a very fine line between enough brake to slow it down and it locking up the front. I went with Wilwood for the front. The discs are a little bigger than stock but still fit behind a 15 inch wheel. I swapped out the master cylinder and distribution block with a 70s to 80s GM style and skipped the power booster. I knew an engine build was in it's future and didn't want to worry about vacuum if I went with an agressive cam.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Front disc conversion is a no brainer for a car you intend to drive. No need to go with disc on the rear unless you plan to race or rally cross it. Mine had drum on the front when I got it. I know that others have been running drums forever but the brake characteristics were just too unpredictable for my taste. There was a very fine line between enough brake to slow it down and it locking up the front. I went with Wilwood for the front. The discs are a little bigger than stock but still fit behind a 15 inch wheel. I swapped out the master cylinder and distribution block with a 70s to 80s GM style and skipped the power booster. I knew an engine build was in it's future and didn't want to worry about vacuum if I went with an agressive cam.
We found the problem, or at least confirmed the problem. Car is now on jack stands, rear brakes do brake every time solid, front ones very little and erratic, my son hitting the brake pedal hard, and I could rotate the front drums with my hands !!!! So, I am looking at three possible things, the pump, the brake distributor block, or the front brake cylinders stuck although when they do work, they release normally indicating they are not stuck, so I am mostly inclined to the Brake Distribution Block gone bad, I heard about those going stuck clogged inside causing this kinds of issues.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Maybe the front caliper pistons will release but aren't moving out enough to bind, just a thought. Sitting that long the whole brake system will have to be gone through and everything rubber replaced, fluid flushed and rust dealt with.
Thanks ! Yeap, no way around that. Dad had replaced the lines with SS ones not long ago, and the brake cylinders are fairly new as I was told by my brother who installed them, actually they are the brass type I was told, and they look brass. The Distribution block looks old, like original, I will look into that tomorrow...
 

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We found the problem, or at least confirmed the problem. Car is now on jack stands, rear brakes do brake every time solid, front ones very little and erratic, my son hitting the brake pedal hard, and I could rotate the front drums with my hands !!!! So, I am looking at three possible things, the pump, the brake distributor block, or the front brake cylinders stuck although when they do work, they release normally indicating they are not stuck, so I am mostly inclined to the Brake Distribution Block gone bad, I heard about those going stuck clogged inside causing this kinds of issues.
Check to see if the front adjusters are frozen. Sounds to me like the shoes are too far away from the drums. Try moving the adjuster a couple clicks and see if you get better brakes. This will help rule out a hydraulic issue from a mechanical one. My stock adjusters on the rears don't work as good as they should. About once per season, I adjust them and braking characteristics improve a bunch.
 

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Thanks ! Yeap, no way around that. Dad had replaced the lines with SS ones not long ago, and the brake cylinders are fairly new as I was told by my brother who installed them, actually they are the brass type I was told, and they look brass. The Distribution block looks old, like original, I will look into that tomorrow...
Sorry I was thinking disc calipers, carry on.
 

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Those rear brakes are new. I would check the front brake adjustment as stated. The distribution blocks are almost never, ever, the issue if original. In my 40+ years in the industry, have seen it less than 5 times out of thousands of cars. You could have a partially collapsed rubber line at each wheel, or crap in the steel line, or a master that isn't stroking properly or is bypassing a bit internally. If the car has sat and the brakes WERE good to begin with, likely a master cylinder issue. If the brakes never WERE right, check the adjustment. Then check for fluid out of the bleeders. I've had the wheel cylinders on my '65 seize up before due to my lack of maintaining the brake fluid (which reminds me, I need to change it out on both GTO's!!). Replacing them fixed the issue. I hate stainless steel lines, BTW, on classics and hotrods that will never even see a puddle. They are hard, brittle, and like to leak.
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Check to see if the front adjusters are frozen. Sounds to me like the shoes are too far away from the drums. Try moving the adjuster a couple clicks and see if you get better brakes. This will help rule out a hydraulic issue from a mechanical one. My stock adjusters on the rears don't work as good as they should. About once per season, I adjust them and braking characteristics improve a bunch.
Thanks for all the help and advise.
 
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