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Ladder Bars / wheel hop

6K views 11 replies 10 participants last post by  Baaad65 
#1 ·
Been wanting a 66-67 GTO for the last couple years....looking at a 66 4 speed car next week... Question...back in the mid 70's my friends that did have GTO's also ran ladder bars to stop the wheel hop.....now decades later is there another solution to stop wheel hop ?? I still like the look of ladder bars....just old school I guess. Thanks
 
#3 ·
:agree Those and also good quality control arms (no rubber or urethane - use sphereical ends)
Ladder bars look cool, but if they're done correctly they tend to bend/break things in cornering situations when the body tries to roll with respect to the axle.

Bear
 
#4 ·
I was using lakewood traction/lift bars. Poly snubbed so a little more gentle then ladder bars but order a ton of snubbed because you will tear them off cornering. I just went adjustable uppers and no more wheel hop,and I have alot more power now. But I put the bars back on because as a kid I loved them guess part of me is still that 7 year old looking at my uncles gto dad's nova god father's El Camino sitting in the drive way. I have no experience with the drag bags but only hear good things
 
#5 ·
Bolt-on ladder bars put a bind on the rear suspension, virtually eliminate wheel hop, and create a harsher ride. They put extra stress on the rear suspension components, mounting points and frame. Strictly a band-aid fix. The factory instant center (imaginary point where the upper and lower control arms intersect) is near the front bumper to create a smooth and compliant ride. Add in the approx 3ft ladder bars and their fixed pivot/instant center and you can see how they will creat a bind. Pick up a copy of Dave Morgan's book, The Doorslammer's Handbook to learn more if you want to about instant centers, anti-squat, etc.

Go with adjustable upper control arms and taller springs and/or air bags to raise, if you want.


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#6 ·
The best solution is the factory style No Hop brackets that bolt to the third member. You need to drill throught the casting webs to install. They work and are invisible unless you are under the car looking at the top of the pumpkin. They look like big C brackets. I ran the Lakewood adjustable ladder bars 35 years ago on my '66, and they eliminated wheelhop 100%. I painted them flat black so that they would 'blend in. They ended up not being up to the job, bending outward to the point of not contacting the frame rails anymore. I guess my junkyard 400 had too much torque. Air Lift air bags like Rukee mentioned would be where I would start. They are non-intrusive, won't ruin the ride, and plumbed seperately, can be tuned to really help the car launch. As an added bonus, you can inflate them to 25psi, throw all your junk in the trunk, and go on a long road trip without being sacked in the rear. They are under $100 and install in about an hour.
 
#11 ·
As younggto said above, the old ladder bars bound up the suspension making things solid - or at least until the welds broke. Pretty hard to get wheel hop out of a bound up suspension but lots of other problems come up. There is a critical height on the 64-67 cars and once you raise the rear over about 1-1/2" the geometry is screwed up enough to wrap/unwrap the rearend under acceleration. I believe there are still two sets of the yellow Lakewood ladder bars down in my scrap pile that we took off cars that my friends purchased, and I think both sets have broken welds.

No hop brackets mentioned by geeteeohguy do work pretty good by raising the upper control arm mount on the rearend and that height maintains leverage on the twisting forces. Lowering the bottom mounts also work but I haven't seen a kit (might be one). The Strange Dana 60 rears for our A-bodies have the top ears 2" taller than a stock rearend and have multiple lower mounting holes that can be used to achieve the desired geometry.
 
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