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Got there at 6pm and it had just rained.
Well they got the track dry by 7.30-8pm.
They have a jet dryer now I hadnt seen before.
However those damn crappy no time racers kept breaking and getting the track shut down. Make a long story short between 6 and 10.30pm I made 2 runs..
Anyways I ran pretty much same as last time,
[email protected] ,
85°F
Sep 17 10:00 p.m.
Wind: From E at 6 mph
Humidity: 74%
Pressure: 30.06 in


,I really need to get a convertor to be able to launch this thing harder.
Current mods are predator,xpipe,removed resonators and smooth air inlet pipe. All else stock

Jared (USDMGTO / 2004 M6) as well only got two runs and his bieng a 6 speed and has first time racing it not enough time to find the best way to launch it.He ran mid 14s .Also his car is still breaking in seeing as he only bought it a few weeks ago brand new.. However he picks up a lot more mph bewtween the 1/8 and the 1/4 than I do so his will be faster once he gets the launch down.

There was a Torrid Red 04 and a Blue 05 both ran high 14s,low 15s..
Three times to the track,at least 4-6 GTOs every time and havent seen a stock or near stock GTO break into the 13s. What is up with that?
Beginning to see why people think GTOs are slow.
 

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I've noticed the same thing. Unmodified GTO's turning low to mid 14's. I think it's the heat. People not cooling their cars properly for the heat and these things being sensitive to temps. With a bunch of trips to the track and seeing maybe a dozen GTO's run I have only seen two others get into the 13's and that was high 13's. Those were both 05's. Even with the heat and still having streets, I'm getting low 13's pretty regularly. Add this post to the things that make you go WTF.
 

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vnamvet said:
3700 pounds is the REASON.............the GTO is one heavy car, especially for 320 RWHP...........
320 rwhp is right in the middle of the 04' and 05' numbers. Was that the intention? The numbers I have seen for 05' GTO's is 335 to 350 rwhp. 04' GTO's I've seen 295-310 rwhp.
I'm consistantly getting low 13's with high temperatures. When it was cooler (low 60's) I broke into the 12's. HTRDLNCN is getting mid to low 13's with minor mods and high temperatures.
I think what HTRDLNCN is getting at is this car has a lot of potential, but it is hard to extract it. Most people are unable to run into the 13's consistantly. That makes people think that the GTO is slow.
 

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Tips for getting better times when at the track:
1) Remove fuel rail covers, they look pretty and trap heat.
2) 05' remove hood plugs
3) Set front tires air pressure to 40-45 psi
4) Set rear tire pressure with streets to 23-26 psi
5) Turn traction control off
6) Allow the car plenty of cool down time. At least 30 minutes.Run your heater while staging to add cooling for the engine. I throw mine into diagnostic mode and make sure my water temp is around 170-175 max. By the time you get to the line you will be at 180-190. If you are over 195 the run is a waste.
7) Remove all excess weight. Floor mats, spare tire, jack ETC...
8) Try to have a 1/4 tank of fuel.
9) Make sure you run premium gas only all the time.
10) Learn your launch technique. Mine is 2000-2500 rpm's with a moderately quick dump of the clutch. I vary the Rpms depending on how sticky the track is. This usually nets a low 2.0x on streets.
11) Burnouts with street tires look neat but do little to help with traction. Do a quick spin for a second or two to "clean" the tires.
12) I start my 1-2 shift at 6200-6300 (LS2).By the time I'm actually shifting the car is right at redline. 2-3 and 3-4 are done at slightly higher rpms because the engine is not spooling up as fast. You need to get as close to redline as possible. LS1 and LS2 engines are deep breathers and make lots of power up high.
13) Move the seat as far forward as you can stand. You need to be able to get your feet flat on the firewall underneath the gas,brake and clutch. You also do not want to be stretching for the shifter.

Just a few tips, please add any others I forgot.
 

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fergyflyer said:
Tips for getting better times when at the track:
1) Remove fuel rail covers, they look pretty and trap heat.
2) 05' remove hood plugs
3) Set front tires air pressure to 40-45 psi
4) Set rear tire pressure with streets to 23-26 psi
5) Turn traction control off
6) Allow the car plenty of cool down time. At least 30 minutes.Run your heater while staging to add cooling for the engine. I throw mine into diagnostic mode and make sure my water temp is around 170-175 max. By the time you get to the line you will be at 180-190. If you are over 195 the run is a waste.
7) Remove all excess weight. Floor mats, spare tire, jack ETC...
8) Try to have a 1/4 tank of fuel.
9) Make sure you run premium gas only all the time.
10) Learn your launch technique. Mine is 2000-2500 rpm's with a moderately quick dump of the clutch. I vary the Rpms depending on how sticky the track is. This usually nets a low 2.0x on streets.
11) Burnouts with street tires look neat but do little to help with traction. Do a quick spin for a second or two to "clean" the tires.
12) I start my 1-2 shift at 6200-6300 (LS2).By the time I'm actually shifting the car is right at redline. 2-3 and 3-4 are done at slightly higher rpms because the engine is not spooling up as fast. You need to get as close to redline as possible. LS1 and LS2 engines are deep breathers and make lots of power up high.
13) Move the seat as far forward as you can stand. You need to be able to get your feet flat on the firewall underneath the gas,brake and clutch. You also do not want to be stretching for the shifter.

Just a few tips, please add any others I forgot.
I asked this question before but didnt get a response, With the stock air box would dumping a bag of ice in the box just below the filter level help out with a run down the track?
 

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JMVorbeck said:
I asked this question before but didnt get a response, With the stock air box would dumping a bag of ice in the box just below the filter level help out with a run down the track?
I didn't reply because I'm not sure. In theory it should help cool the intake temps. I think the melting ice would dump water onto the track and the NHRA people would be upset. The air moving past the ice would be cooled, but I think some of the ice would get sucked up against the air filter and clog it, plus it would then melt and wet the filter. My thoughts are I'm not going to try it.
 

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JMVorbeck said:
I asked this question before but didnt get a response, With the stock air box would dumping a bag of ice in the box just below the filter level help out with a run down the track?
Don't do this!! Reason why, there is a drain hole at the bottom of your air box, the ice will melt and the water will drip and you will be asked to get off the track! :cheers
 

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GTODEALER said:
Don't do this!! Reason why, there is a drain hole at the bottom of your air box, the ice will melt and the water will drip and you will be asked to get off the track! :cheers
Bag your ice in ziplocks, thick freezer type. Even double bag. Interesting idea, though. Most just throw these bags on the intake during cool down between runs :cheers

Me, too much motor not enough clutch. Smoked my clutch half way down the track :eek:
 

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westell said:
Bag your ice in ziplocks, thick freezer type. Even double bag. Interesting idea, though. Most just throw these bags on the intake during cool down between runs :cheers

Me, too much motor not enough clutch. Smoked my clutch half way down the track :eek:
Oh Ouch! Was that the stock clutch? What are you gonna go for now?
 

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westell said:
Bag your ice in ziplocks, thick freezer type. Even double bag. Interesting idea, though. Most just throw these bags on the intake during cool down between runs :cheers

Me, too much motor not enough clutch. Smoked my clutch half way down the track :eek:
Know the feeling... second clutch for me too...... what did you run with the screwed clutch? :cheers
 

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JMVorbeck said:
Oh Ouch! Was that the stock clutch? What are you gonna go for now?
WAS being the key word. There's some clutch left and I can still get hooked. I thought a 3500 launch was gonna be ok, but in hind sight, with the cam, it's really starting to wind up then.

I have NO IDEA what clutch to go with. Everybody's got their own ideas.

That's the problem with modding up. Always chasin' your own tail.

I hadn't been on a dragstrip for 15 years (had V8 vega / 305/auto trans). Been going in circles and road racin most of last ten years.

If I get my act together on launch and that damn 2-3 shift, I fully believe I can be in high 12's. To me, low 13's are unacceptable :cool
 

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westell said:
WAS being the key word. There's some clutch left and I can still get hooked. I thought a 3500 launch was gonna be ok, but in hind sight, with the cam, it's really starting to wind up then.

I have NO IDEA what clutch to go with. Everybody's got their own ideas.

That's the problem with modding up. Always chasin' your own tail.

I hadn't been on a dragstrip for 15 years (had V8 vega / 305/auto trans). Been going in circles and road racin most of last ten years.

If I get my act together on launch and that damn 2-3 shift, I fully believe I can be in high 12's. To me, low 13's are unacceptable :cool
With all that stuff you've got I would think low 13's would be unacceptable, thats what people are putting down stock. I was looking at the http://www.specclutch.com/ website. Looks like a stage 2+ or stage 3 is in your future. :cheers
 
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