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Discussion Starter #1
Ive been considering a 1960's muscle car for a while now and have found a nice 1968 GTO nearby. Im planning on looking it over this weekend.

I have a number of questions:

1. how much value does it lose with non-original #'s matching engine?
2. I have engine codes off GTOALLEY.com...looks like i need to locate the production code on the block on the distributor pad or the casting # behind the #8 cylinder....owner says its all hard to read any suggestions?
3. I need to also find the engine code on the front of the block to make sure its a YS
4. how to i determine the Axle ratio? 3.55? whats common? it has the hurst automatic his/hers

I am planning on having it inspected professionally if it passes my inspection.

Also will check with PHS...i have the VIN# already

I want the car as a high end driver and want to make sure everything is as original as possible...im not sure i want a car w/o the original engine...when i sell it someday i want it to sell easily.

any suggestions are welcome
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Sure id be interested in it, but i dont want to purchase a plane ticket to see it

give me some info

I found a 1969 firebird convertible 350ho numbers matching which im also looking at right now.
 

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Ive been considering a 1960's muscle car for a while now and have found a nice 1968 GTO nearby. Im planning on looking it over this weekend.

I have a number of questions:

1. how much value does it lose with non-original #'s matching engine?
Non matching will drop the value like a rock. That doesn't mean tho that you still can't get good money for a non matching GTO
2. I have engine codes off GTOALLEY.com...looks like i need to locate the production code on the block on the distributor pad or the casting # behind the #8 cylinder....owner says its all hard to read any suggestions?
Yep, that's where they're located. Grab a flashlight and look close.
3. I need to also find the engine code on the front of the block to make sure its a YS
Front of block, passenger side, just below the head. That code will not tell you if it's a numbers matching. YS blocks were used in many years, even in non GTO's. You also need the engines v.i.n. See below.
4. how to i determine the Axle ratio? 3.55? whats common? it has the hurst automatic his/hers
Verify the date code on the backside of the punpkin next to the cover. Should look something like this, D228(D=April, 22, 1968) If it's a '68 you should find a 2 letter code "stamped" on the back drivers side axle tube. The code will begin with a W, Y or Z(Y/Z = safe-t-track). That code will tell you what gear ratio came with the car when new. To verify those gears are still in it, you would want to rotate the tire once(if it's a safe-t-track, twice if not) and count the number of revolutions of the driveshaft. 3 1/2 turns = 3.55 ratio etc.... You can date code the tranny too, ex. 68 PT 1234(for automatics)

I am planning on having it inspected professionally if it passes my inspection.

Also will check with PHS...i have the VIN# already

I want the car as a high end driver and want to make sure everything is as original as possible...im not sure i want a car w/o the original engine...when i sell it someday i want it to sell easily.

any suggestions are welcome
See above....

Engines v.i.n. is located by timing cover passenger side. Given the example below, 2= Pontiac, second 2 = year(1972), P = final assembly plant, 361206 = should match the last 6 digits of the cars v.i.n. If it doesn't, it's not a numbers matching GTO.
 

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