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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
well today I mounted new tires nitto nt555 245/45/zr17 for my 05 gto 12k miles on her, the bfg kdw's worn out...new tire on drivers side fits fine about 1/4 space from strut.. passenger side rubs/squeeks against the front strut while spinning the wheel on jack stands.. WTF is causing this?? very minor rub if any with the old bfg's on that side .. I understand there are issues with these on the gtos , but now I cant even drive the car & all I did was put new tires on up front??? what should I check 1st I need to fix this b4 it comes out of storage for summer... could it just be a camber issue and need aligned or should I replace the strut bushing/bearings ?? please help im lost :cuss: also Im a tech 20yrs so im not stupid I just never deal with this problem b4 & would app any help.. also what spec should the camber be ? ive hear -.2 to -.4 whats right?? gm sez to make it positive .2 but I know that would mess up handling.. didn't know just putting new tires on would cause me this much greif !!!!!! I was thinking of getting the whiteline plus strut mount bushing & bearing kit as its on sale for $158 from Maryland speed
 

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even tires of the same stated size can have a different overall diameter...I'm wondering if this is your issue...tirerack.com will show overall diameter on many tires...good luck

Bill
 

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The tires should be OK. They were BFGs stock and they are one of the wider brands. Nitto is one of the narrower. Start with the strut bushings and bearings and then get an alignment. Make sure you get a new bump stop too. You should be able (and it's desirable to) run negative camber. -0.4 is good. I run 255s on the stock 17s up front with 5mm spacers, ARP studs and -1.0 camber.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
well I ordered the new whiteline strut bushings/w bearings. in the mean while I used the camber adjusting bolt on the spindle knuckle & adjusted the tire so there is a pencil (7-8mm) width in between them and the strut also ordered new tty bolts nuts for the strut mount from the dealer for when I replace the bush/bearings at strut tower & complete a good alignment to spec , my hunter proline at work says the camber should be -.2 is this the correct spec the old one from gm was -.7 I believe .. question is even if the bushings/bearing is bad that shouldn't change the distance between the tire & the strut as it is adjusted at the spindle & that shouldn't move unless the wheel bearing has play in it ????? which is doesn't ,the bearing/bushing would affect the overall camber but not the distance between the tire & strut, the new tire seems to have a more bowed out sidewall than the bfg kdws that were on it stock....also they were bald as they could get... correct me if im wrong ?/ either way I ordered new bushing/bearings from whiteline so I hope that's all !!! anymore help would be appreciated as the holden vz monaro (aka GTO) is new to me to work on as compared to my ws6 trans am ... I love my goat but it sure has me scratching my head when it comes to serviceing it...
 

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The tires should be OK. They were BFGs stock and they are one of the wider brands. Nitto is one of the narrower. Start with the strut bushings and bearings and then get an alignment. Make sure you get a new bump stop too. You should be able (and it's desirable to) run negative camber. -0.4 is good. I run 255s on the stock 17s up front with 5mm spacers, ARP studs and -1.0 camber.
Just curious what are you running on the rear svede?? I am running 255's on the rear and didn't think I could run them on the front without strut rub. Knowing this I may opt to get them up front as well so I can rotate
 

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well I ordered the new whiteline strut bushings/w bearings. in the mean while I used the camber adjusting bolt on the spindle knuckle & adjusted the tire so there is a pencil (7-8mm) width in between them and the strut also ordered new tty bolts nuts for the strut mount from the dealer for when I replace the bush/bearings at strut tower & complete a good alignment to spec , my hunter proline at work says the camber should be -.2 is this the correct spec the old one from gm was -.7 I believe .. question is even if the bushings/bearing is bad that shouldn't change the distance between the tire & the strut as it is adjusted at the spindle & that shouldn't move unless the wheel bearing has play in it ????? which is doesn't ,the bearing/bushing would affect the overall camber but not the distance between the tire & strut, the new tire seems to have a more bowed out sidewall than the bfg kdws that were on it stock....also they were bald as they could get... correct me if im wrong ?/ either way I ordered new bushing/bearings from whiteline so I hope that's all !!! anymore help would be appreciated as the holden vz monaro (aka GTO) is new to me to work on as compared to my ws6 trans am ... I love my goat but it sure has me scratching my head when it comes to serviceing it...
I hope you ordered the bump stops too You'll see they're probably trashed. The strut bushing can make the wheel sag in and causes that problem. You may be ok. The camber spec was changed just for the collapsed bushing/strut rub issue. If you can get it a little higher than -.2 it will be better.

Just curious what are you running on the rear svede?? I am running 255's on the rear and didn't think I could run them on the front without strut rub. Knowing this I may opt to get them up front as well so I can rotate
I have Nitto NT05s right now. I just changed from Firestone Firehawks 245s front, 285s rear. The Nitto only came in a 275 so that's what I run in the back. The rears are on stock 17"s widened an inch to 9". The widening upped the offset of those to 62mm. I used 5mm wheel spacers to bring it back out for an effective 57mm offset. I have mildly rolled rear fender lips. In the front are NT05s 255s with 5mm spacers and ARP wheel studs all the way around. Fronts are -1.0 camber too.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
:cool Thanks Svede , where do I ordered the bump stops ? I guess the dealer, im waiting on my tty bolts nuts to come in so I have to go back to the dealer anyways.... I put a breaker bar on the strut mount nut up top & checked my bushes like how pedders said to do they spring right back with no rotation. maybe this is all just an alignment issue & too much negative camber from factory since this is the 1st work on my front end. tires ect ... I ordered the bush/bearings tty bolts nuts ill install & see how the alignment goes . thanks 4 everything !!!! wish me luck
 

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It's pretty easy to do as long as you have a spring compressor. You don't need it until you get the assembly out. Getting that top nut off is much, much easier if you use an impact. You don't have to hold the post to loosen it then. The post sticking out of the top is a weird size. Nothing metric or SAE fit it. Just be careful until you get the bearing pack on so you don't end up with ball bearings going all over. When you get the old bushing out check the height compared to the new one and let us know. You can get the bump stops from Kollar Racing Products.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks again Sevde , I just ordered the bumpstops & the whiteline bush/bearings from Kollar Racing products ... I also ordered the whiteline front radius rod bushings also...... anything else you can think of that ill need ?? the tty bolts & nuts for the strut mounts will be in tuesday from the dealer... so im thinking im good with parts... :)
 

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Throw springs and struts on "while you're in there" :D I did forget to say check your boots to make sure they're intact. Oh, pay attention to how the washers cup taking them off and don't spin the strut tightening that top nut. Andy at Kollar is the man.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
well here is a list of what I ordered.. whiteline radius rod bushings ( front & rear) whiteline strut bush/bearings , new tty strut mounting bolts & nuts.... also bump stops from kollar racing.. I got in the front radius rod bush kit just waiting on the other parts to start my replacement & then do a proper alignment to spec.. hope this fixes my front end alignment/ strut rub issues.. could anyone tell me the torque specs for all the items im going to be replacing ?? like front & rear nut torque on the radius rods .. the strut to body mount on strut tower... the 4 nuts that hold the radius rod plate to cradle... I know the tty nuts/bolts is a 3 part deal where step 1 is 63 ft-lbs then step 2 is 74 ft-lbs & then step 3 90 degrees .... anything else I should know?? I just want this to go as smooth as possible & with your help I feel that will happen ... btw again THANKS SVEDE :cheers cant afford new struts springs as of right now , my car only has 11k miles so I hope their still good . not going to race the car just some spirited highway driving :patriot:
 

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The fronts aren't bad but I'd replace the rear shocks and springs ASAP. The springs were weak and sagged from the tie down from the boat trip over and the shocks are off an old screen door. When you get them off you'll see what I mean. I could easily expand and compress the shocks in my hand. My Konis I could only do with great difficulty.

Use at least blue Locktite on everything. Be careful torquing the 4 front radius rod bolts. People have snapped them off. Here's a good general guide. A couple like the half shaft bolts got increased from '04 but most of the specs are good.

Resto PDF
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks Svede , yeah the rear is my next project ... I was thinking Lovells 370mm stock height rear springs from kollar racing :) & would be open to sugestions for the shocks ... Koni or Lovell ? I was thinking the koni's because of the price factor... probably couldn't go wrong with either since they would be a dramatic improvement over the junk stock ones !! well wish me luck I hope to start the front end next week . god willing all my parts arrive :thumbsup: I want the front suspension / alignment all good so I don't ruin the new Nitto 245/45/zr17's nt555's I got 4 for about $430 delivered . love amazon.com don't know how they can afford sell them that cheap & deliver them overnight for free ??:suspicious: LOL
 

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Either would be good. I like the adjust-ability of the Konis. IMHO 20mm (3/4') drop springs are perfect. You'll find the ride height will be close to "stock" with a firmer, controlled ride and better handling as well as the tire filling up the wheel opening better.
 

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Just to add to this thread I found the pic of my stock front spring next to a Lovells 20mm drop spring. Although the car sits 3/4" lower it isn't as prone to deep dips like the weak stock springs.

 

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Discussion Starter #17
well tomorrow im installing my lovells strut bushing/bearings & my whiteline radius rod bushings front & rear .. wish me luck !! also I actually saw how bad the strut bushing are .. WOW only 11k +/- miles on my gto & DAMN the top plate is almost a 1/2 inch up off the strut tower with the wheels on the ground!I can see the top of the bushings center that's how bad it is .... cant believe I never noticed that before ????? :nonod: un-fricking believable !! on a good note , just placed the order for my adjustable Koni's for the rear & my Lovells 370 mm rear springs CANT WAIT 2 see how she handles when alls complete ...... :yesnod: guess I found my 60+ mph front end shake ! LOL :cheers again THANKS SVEDE ! ! ! thinking my next purchase is going to be the ever elusive SVEDE SPEED OTRCAI to replace my hot air sucking K&N cai , the infrared laser thermo temp from my engine bay & my iat temp on my snapon modis are +/- 5 degrees apart wow way too much HOT air getting ingested into my beloved LS2 !
 

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Discussion Starter #20
LOL svede , I need a laugh .. holy f*%#k took me 4 hours to do strut bush/bearings & radius rod bushings.. wtf is with these cars ?? old bushes were SMOKED bad. still I can only get -.15 camber with the pencil thickness between tire & strut atleast everything is in the green/specs on alignment front & rear .. konis came in today .. my lovell rears springs are ordered prob be a week or 2 b4 I see them just mailed money order Monday.. gm really screwed up putting 10mm wider tire on these rims.. the back spacing is really not for this car should be -15 less backspacing to give you good clearance between tire & strut.. I understand the 235/45/17s are what the aussies put on the car & it works good ! im just pissed sorry !!!
 
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