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Discussion Starter #1
My transmission has been rebuilt and I also replaced the clutch. I have a B&M short shifter. If I shift as you would in traffic, 1st to second is easy and smooth. 5000 RPMs and up, it gets very hard to pull it into 2nd and shove it into 3rd. Does anyone else experience much harder shifts as the torque increases or do I still have transmission problems? Any input or ideas will be greatly appreciated.
 

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Try this. Put your car on a flat surface, put it in first gear and with the clutch depressed rev the engine and see if you can feel the car move a little
 

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I'd also re-bleed the slave. Did you install stock-replacement parts or aftermarket? Some require the slave to be shimmed.
 

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My transmission has been rebuilt and I also replaced the clutch. I have a B&M short shifter. If I shift as you would in traffic, 1st to second is easy and smooth. 5000 RPMs and up, it gets very hard to pull it into 2nd and shove it into 3rd. Does anyone else experience much harder shifts as the torque increases or do I still have transmission problems? Any input or ideas will be greatly appreciated.
I recently bought a Spec Stage 2 dual disc clutch with a B&M short shifter. It sure isn't a fast shifter, which was what I was hoping for. At high rpms (over 3000) shifting from 1st to 2nd gets me a grinding noise unless I take the time to stop at halfway, then shift all the way into 2nd. Also downshifting to 2nd from 3rd if you're anywhere above 2000 rpm takes a lot of effort. Am waiting for return call from my tuner who installed it to check it out....makes me wish for a paddle shift 6spd auto!$$$$
 

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Discussion Starter #5
svede1212,
I tested the clutch as you suggested and i don't get any movement. It did move before the clutch replace and transmission rebuild. I am going to take the car back to the shop sometime next week. My question for you or anyone else willing to respond is - Does your transmission shift as easily at 5000 RPM as it does at 2500 RPM? I don't have anything else to compare to.

Thanks
 

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I recently bought a Spec Stage 2 dual disc clutch with a B&M short shifter. It sure isn't a fast shifter, which was what I was hoping for. At high rpms (over 3000) shifting from 1st to 2nd gets me a grinding noise unless I take the time to stop at halfway, then shift all the way into 2nd. Also downshifting to 2nd from 3rd if you're anywhere above 2000 rpm takes a lot of effort. Am waiting for return call from my tuner who installed it to check it out....makes me wish for a paddle shift 6spd auto!$$$$
johni53 - the B&M shifter has a reputation - give it a google search. I'd recommend a switch to the GMM or Billet Pro.
 

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johni53 - the B&M shifter has a reputation - give it a google search. I'd recommend a switch to the GMM or Billet Pro.
Was wanting the GMM from the start but availability is next to nonexistent. But am so unhappy with this B&M I'm gonna try again with either GMM or Billet Pro. Thanks for the advice, appreciate it.
 

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I recently got my transmission back too. It was shifting hard for the first 100 miles but its getting smoother. Now After 500 miles and new oil its way better but still not perfect
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Manual 6 SP Hard Shift FIXED

After getting some good advice from my tuner, and a lot of researching, I purchased a Tick Performance Adjustable Clutch Master Cylinder Kit. The transmission shop that I had install it kept warning me that they didn't think this would cure my shifting problems. Boy, were they wrong! My car is now a joy to drive. Shifts at high RPM's are smooth as silk. Going into reverse is so easy. If you have shifting issues at higher RPMs like I did, save yourself a lot of pain and get a Tick Master Cylinder Kit.
 

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The high RPM causes centrifugal force to overcome the PP springs and make the clutch not completely disengage. A Tick "solves" the problem by increasing the throw of the slave. That can introduce other problems. The pressure plate can be the root cause and often a different clutch setup fixes the problem. What Centerforce do you have? You have a good amount of power and the power to clutch strength usually comes into play.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I have a Centerforce Dual Friction Clutch (PN# DF395010). It is suppose to support forced induction or a 150 shot.
 

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Who set it up and did they measure for a shim? I made that mistake once. You may also want to look at a MGP-P or a McLeod Qwik Stik shifter
 
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