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Imagine the extreme sharp edge of the blade - "just the tip". Now imagine that whole edge, just the tiniest few thousandths of an inch, pushed slightly "sideways" after dragging it at a slant over the sandpaper. That's the burr I'm talking about. Now, if you bend the blade into a very slight U shape, so that the burr now is on the "outside" edge of the U, you can drag it over the run. Because of the curve shape, only a very small section of the blade will be in contact with the paint, and again because of that curve, the corners of the blade will stay safely up and away from the paint surface.
Idk what kind of blade you're talking about the little one wrapped in heavy paper around the blade? but they seem to brittle to bend, I've broken many of them just saying.
 

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Discussion Starter · #303 ·
The trunk floor is painted.
I mixed up black epoxy primer with a bit of white to match the gray color of the spatter paint.

I waited an hour and then sprayed the spatter paint. I bought a quart from The Parts Place and used most of it. I'm pleased with how it turned out.



I got the rear wheel wells undercoated using the 3M spray can stuff. I then sprayed black epoxy over it to seal it. Same process as on the front inner fenders I did a while back.

Got a few things done on the interior. I installed the sound deadener on the floor. This is a Auto Customs Carpet kit and is like what is used stock. I used a heat gun to help it mold to the floor. I also installed the stock type of firewall insulation from the The Parts Place and it fits pretty well.


I decided to use an aftermarket in dash stereo by RetroSound and have that on order. For the front speakers, I bought a kit for a GTO from Classic Car Stereos that mounts in the stock dash speaker location. It fits well but I did have to modify it a bit.


I bought an upper dash insulation pad kit from Ames and will install that next.
That glues on the metal in that area you can see between where the speaker mounts and the top of the firewall insulation pad.

I installed the trunk lid hinges and torsion springs. I blasted and painted the springs with cast colored paint.

Since I had to grind off the rivet ends of the hinge pins to remove the hinges for painting, I had to devise a way to reuse them. I ended up welding a stud to the end so I could secure the pins with a washer and nut.

I've been working on a few other things too. I'll be updating again soon. I've also been spending a lot of time ordering parts. I'm trying to get the majority of things I'll need to complete the car.
After closely inspecting the original wiring that came with the car, I realized that most if it was really unusable. I decided to go with an American Autowire Classic update kit. I've used them before and I like the quality.
 
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Looking better than factory that's for sure! Isn't it fun assembling when everything's clean and painted. I used a Retrosound stereo too 👍
 

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I wasn't aware that the dash frame could be removed!! Good to know as it makes it easier to sand blast it.
Congrats for the build. Coming up really nicely and as most people are saying on here... Surely better than factory.
Keep up the good work.
 

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The trunk floor is painted.
I mixed up black epoxy primer with a bit of white to match the gray color of the spatter paint.

I waited an hour and then sprayed the spatter paint. I bought a quart from The Parts Place and used most of it. I'm pleased with how it turned out.



I got the rear wheel wells undercoated using the 3M spray can stuff. I then sprayed black epoxy over it to seal it. Same process as on the front inner fenders I did a while back.

Got a few things done on the interior. I installed the sound deadener on the floor. This is a Auto Customs Carpet kit and is like what is used stock. I used a heat gun to help it mold to the floor. I also installed the stock type of firewall insulation from the The Parts Place and it fits pretty well.


I decided to use an aftermarket in dash stereo by RetroSound and have that on order. For the front speakers, I bought a kit for a GTO from Classic Car Stereos that mounts in the stock dash speaker location. It fits well but I did have to modify it a bit.


I bought an upper dash insulation pad kit from Ames and will install that next.
That glues on the metal in that area you can see between where the speaker mounts and the top of the firewall insulation pad.

I installed the trunk lid hinges and torsion springs. I blasted and painted the springs with cast colored paint.

Since I had to grind off the rivet ends of the hinge pins to remove the hinges for painting, I had to devise a way to reuse them. I ended up welding a stud to the end so I could secure the pins with a washer and nut.

I've been working on a few other things too. I'll be updating again soon. I've also been spending a lot of time ordering parts. I'm trying to get the majority of things I'll need to complete the car.
After closely inspecting the original wiring that came with the car, I realized that most if it was really unusable. I decided to go with an American Autowire Classic update kit. I've used them before and I like the quality.
So forgive me for questioning but I like to learn, why wouldn't the wheel wells and trunk get painted before the body so you wouldn't have to cover the whole car and or risk scratching the finished body? I would think work from the inside out no?
 

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Discussion Starter · #307 ·
No apologies. It certainly can be done either way but I didn't have any trouble doing it the way I did and found it easy.
I rolled the car just outside, papered it off and sprayed both the trunk and the wheel wells starting after lunch and was done by 5PM. I only papered about 2 feet around the perimeter of where I was spraying and didn't worry about covering the floor of the car. Overspray past a couple of feet is just light dust and not much if any of that at all spraying outside like I did. As far as scratching, I don't see any issue with that either. As long as I'm careful with tools and clothes, we are only talking about the micro scratches you get from dragging masking paper over the painted surface with a bit of dust that has settled on to it. Not an issue since I am going to color sand and buff the car as one of the last things before it's ready for the road.
 
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Discussion Starter · #308 ·
Several things done since my last post.

I mocked up the A/C evaporator case for a test fit with that later style evaporator core I bought. No good, the accumulator wouldn't clear the inner fender.

I then did a lot of studying of other newer style cores that might fit. It took me a while but I found a perfect fit for a core for a Chevy van application. It's a Four Seasons 54281 and has the same sized core as the original GTO core with an outlet that will allow an accumulator to clear perfectly.

My original squirrel cage fan was rusted badly so I bought a used original from Paul (68gtoMN) over on the PY forum. It was perfect and just needed to be blasted and painted. I mated it to a new blower motor from Napa.

Here's the case mounted permanently:

I changed the way the factory did the ground wire for the blower motor. I used 10 ga. wire and connected it to rivet nuts I installed.

I installed the upper dash insulation, Y defrost duct (also acquired from Paul as my original was disintegrated), accelerator pedal, brake pedal assembly and e-brake assembly.


I also installed the wiper transmission, new wiper motor and washer pump and new power brake booster.

Reinstalled the original data plate:

Here's a photo of the Lokar throttle cable:

It worked out perfectly with the original accelerator pedal rod arm. I just had to modify the connection at the top as you can see here:

Today I installed the tail light assemblies. I'm about ready now to see how well the new rear bumper from Ames will fit.



 
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Looking fantastic! Did that blower motor have oil ports or is it a sealed bearing? Looked like an inducer motor on a furnace. I still find it funny that convertibles have a/c 😉
 

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Discussion Starter · #310 ·
Looking fantastic! Did that blower motor have oil ports or is it a sealed bearing? Looked like an inducer motor on a furnace. I still find it funny that convertibles have a/c 😉
Thanks!
Sealed bearing. As far as I know all car blower motors have sealed bearings.
Btw, I misspoke about the application of the newer style evaporator that fits perfectly.
These are the applications for the Four Seasons 54281 evaporator according to Rock Auto:

BUICK REGAL 1977
BUICK RIVIERA 1979-1985
CADILLAC ELDORADO 1979-1985
CADILLAC SEVILLE 1980-1985
CHEVROLET EL CAMINO 1977
CHEVROLET MALIBU 1977
CHEVROLET MONTE CARLO 1977
OLDSMOBILE CUTLASS 1977
OLDSMOBILE CUTLASS SALON 1977
OLDSMOBILE CUTLASS SUPREME 1977
OLDSMOBILE TORONADO 1979-1985
PONTIAC GRAND PRIX 1976-1977
PONTIAC LEMANS 1977
 
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Discussion Starter · #311 ·
Disassembled, blasted and painted the intermediate steering shaft and then installed a new boot seal. I just need to pack with grease and install the new retaining clip to finish it.

I had to use my press to remove and reinstall the round pin in order to get the boot on. And what a pain it is to install the clip that holds the boot on the shaft.

I've pretty much got my dash ready for installing in the car. All new bezels, new A/C deflectors, original HVAC control with a new fan switch, new lens and lever knobs, the Dakota Digital VHX gauge set and the RetroSound Daytona Motor 4 stereo receiver unit.




RetroSound doesn't make Pontiac knobs for this receiver. And they design it so the stock bezels can't be used. I knew this before I bought it but figured I would somehow be able to make Pontiac knobs and bezels work with it. I had to make several modifications and fabricate new mounting brackets but was able to do it. I also had to use other style rear knobs that RetroSound makes that would fit and allow the controls to work correctly. It took me a lot of time to figure it all out but I am happy with how it turned out and looks.


I've got quite a bit of the dash wiring done and started the engine wiring too. I did several modifications to the American Auto Wire dash and engine wiring harnesses to tailor it to the Dakota Digital gauges and the Edelbrock fuel injection system. I also mounted the control boxes for both.




Got the inside HVAC box installed with a new Spectra heater core inside.

My wife helped me install the windshield today.
We first set in in place so I could adjust the rests at the bottom and get some marks to help lining it up. Then removed it to install the ribbon seal tape.

Installed:

Removed the alignment marks and cleaned:
 
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Discussion Starter · #313 ·

So I did a test fit on my dash and found an issue.
The dash speaker kit I bought isn't going to work. The speaker on the driver side wont clear the center A/C duct. Bummer, the place I bought the kit from (classiccarstereos.com) said the it fits a GTO with A/C but it does not. I was impressed with the company however. I called them yesterday and they told me they would give me a complete refund and pay for the return shipping. Without the original box and after 2 months too.

So I already decided to go another route and ordered this speaker from RetroSound:
 

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So I did a test fit on my dash and found an issue.
The dash speaker kit I bought isn't going to work. The speaker on the driver side wont clear the center A/C duct. Bummer, the place I bought the kit from (classiccarstereos.com) said the it fits a GTO with A/C but it does not. I was impressed with the company however. I called them yesterday and they told me they would give me a complete refund and pay for the return shipping. Without the original box and after 2 months too.

So I already decided to go another route and ordered this speaker from RetroSound:
Well that's good of them in this day and age, I have that same speaker powered by the head unit only to put some sound up higher while all the other ones run through my Rockford Fosgate amplifier. My BT radio is from RetroSound.
 

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Have been following your resto thread. Impressed would be an understatement... would love to swing by someday and check out your ride. I am not too far away in Abilene. Keep up the amazing work.
 
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Discussion Starter · #316 ·
Have been following your resto thread. Impressed would be an understatement... would love to swing by someday and check out your ride. I am not too far away in Abilene. Keep up the amazing work.
Thanks!
Absolutely. Drive your GTO down if you can, I'd like to see it.
 

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That might be fun. Unfortunately it's not near as nice as yours...
 

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Won't be too much longer for the big reveal!! Great work!
 
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