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Discussion Starter #61
I decided to move the body out of the shop and the frame in to paint it. The nights are just too cold to leave the frame outside overnight for the SPI epoxy.
I used a body cart my neighbor built for me when I restored my '57 pickup. I had to adapt it to fit the GTO. It worked fine but I didn't get it balanced as good as I would have liked so I put the body on jackstands and make some more adjustments on the cart:

I spray 2 heavy coats of SPI epoxy primer and the first coat I do in gray. That makes it easier for me to see the coverage better when I do the 2nd coat in black. SPI recommends 3 coats if you are doing it in one color. This will be the 3rd frame I've done in this manner.

First coat:

The ropes on the rear don't have but a couple of pounds on them but are needed to keep the frame level and steady. The middle body mount holes in the wide part of the frame rails made it almost a perfect front-to-back balance. Just a few pounds heavier on the rear.

A coat of black and all done:


SPI epoxy will lose a little of it's shine as it cures. Goes to a nice semi-gloss look. I'll let it cure for 48 hours and then move it into the main room of my shop and then roll the body back in this room.
 

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Discussion Starter #62 (Edited)
A few things done since my last update.

I moved the frame into the main area of my shop. This is where it will stay while I get it all built back up. I also modified my body cart and rolled the body back into the work room and back on the hoist.

I received all the new parts I ordered. The rear end is ready to be assembled. Just have to find a new guy to do it for me. I've put out a couple of feelers but haven't heard back yet.

I pressed on the new axle bearings onto my new axles. The bearings are Timken but I see they are now made in China. I hope Timken assures good quality control on them.

In the background of the above photos, that is the ready-to-go crankshaft packed securely along with the new KYB shocks I just received.

Today, I started on the p/s quarter wheel opening rust issues. I got about half of the undercoating off in the wheelhouse also. It's pretty thick in there.

I cut away some of the bad area of the quarter to expose the outer wheelhouse. A lot of the outer wheelhouse in the edge area is rusted completely away. I think it will be too difficult to reconstruct that when I can buy one and cut what I need out of it for a graft.

Front area:

You can see there is some rust damage on the inner wheelhouse as well but that can be repaired.

Rear area:



So as you can see, there's substantial rust damage to the outer wheelhouse and a pretty good amount of rust damage to the inner wheelhouse too. But I think I can reconstruct the inner wheelhouse damage. It will take some time though.

I'm pretty sure it's going to be a similar situation on the other side too and I'll need to buy an outer wheelhouse panel also.

I'll be making an order for all 4 quarter panel patch panels, outer wheelhouses, 2 fender patch panels and the p/s firewall body mount bracket from Ames fairly soon.

Btw, during previous body work to the holes behind the wheel openings, the body man covered the rust holes with masking tape and that was used as a backup for covering with bondo. I wonder what school taught him that?
 
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Discussion Starter #63
A few things done in the last couple of days.
I removed all the undercoating from both rear wheelhouses. Very messy.
I also made the same metal cuts on the p/s wheel well as I had done on the d/s. Rust was pretty much a carbon copy but was a little worse in the area behind the wheel and I cut it all the way back to the rear edge.

I decided to cut it back further on the d/s too even though it wasn't as bad and removed all the rusted metal back to good welding edges on both sides in the rear part.

I also stripped the paint and bondo off of both fenders. Removed some undercoating too. Both have the rusted areas with patches on top and had bondo thick as heck to blend it all in.
Both fenders also had dents that had holes drilled into them and covered with about 3 times as much bondo as they should have taken.

The right fender's dent is above the patch:

Left fender dent:

So I will weld up the holes and remove the dents with a hammer and dolly. Not a big deal.

Closeups of the patches:
A little brazing was tried on them as well as the spot welds.


At some point in the past my car was undercoated by Ziebart. They drilled 4 holes in the door jambs on each side, squirted in the undercoating and put these plastic plugs into the holes afterwards.

I welded all the holes up today. Here's the d/s:


I now have the 6 patch panels on order. 2 for the fenders and 2 each for the rear wheel wells. Also the both the rear outer wheelhouses and the p/s firewall motor mount brace. I actually had to order a pair of braces as I couldn't find them individually. So I guess I'll sell the d/s one on ebay.
 
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Discussion Starter #64
After further thought, I've decided my overhead setup for hoisting the body is safe for me to get under. I just can't imagine it failing anywhere. Plus, it sure is handy to use the equalizer to tilt it for working underneath.

I finished using the wire wheel on the under side of the floor, outer firewall and cowls and I'd say I've got 99% percent of the undercoating off. I worked on it yesterday afternoon and started mid morning today and finished late afternoon.
A lot of work and glad it's done. Like I did the frame, this will make it blast quicker and easier and not contaminate my spent media so I can reclaim and reuse.



 

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Discussion Starter #65
Update:

After removing the undercoating and dirt from underneath the floor, I noticed another spot of damage caused by the leaking heater core.
This was just a rusty crust but not a hole until I poked all the crust away.

2 layers of steel overlap in this area and connect to the rocker flange. Both layers were rusted away but the rocker flange was fine.
I cut it back to good metal and squared it up for replacing the layers with 2 patches. I also cut the hole in the floor back to good metal

Here's the first layer patch:

Smoothed out and holes drilled for plug welds through the patch and rocker flange:

Second layer patch tacked in place:

Second patch smoothed off:

Plug welds smoothed off on the rocker flange:

I had to make 3 different patches to fix the hole where the floor meets the firewall. First one was to replace the small section of flange that was missing:


I did the rest with one small patch and one large one:



This was more of a challenge than I thought it would be but I'm happy with how it came out. Amazing how much damage can be done from a leaking heater core. It must have been leaking and gone unnoticed for quite a while.
 
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