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Discussion Starter #101
I have to say your work is impressive, the attention to detail shows true love of your craft. Keep up the good work!
Thanks! I appreciate your comment. And yes, working on cars has been a hobby for me since I was a teenager and am fortunate to be able to make it my focus in retirement.
 

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Discussion Starter #102
So after resting my back for over a week, I tried out my new creeper seat the last couple of days for short durations and it does seem to work. My back has continued to improve.
So I started working on installing the quarter panel patch panels on the p/s. I got the rear one tacked in place and have the front one clamped on and ready to scribe a line for the final cut on the existing metal.


I did have one issue where the 2 panels meet together. These panels come flanged on the ends and of course the best thing to do is not use them and do butt welds instead. So I cut those flanges off and this left them a little short necessitating an extension be fabricated and welded to one the panels.
 

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So after resting my back for over a week, I tried out my new creeper seat the last couple of days for short durations and it does seem to work. My back has continued to improve.
So I started working on installing the quarter panel patch panels on the p/s. I got the rear one tacked in place and have the front one clamped on and ready to scribe a line for the final cut on the existing metal.


I did have one issue where the 2 panels meet together. These panels come flanged on the ends and of course the best thing to do is not use them and do butt welds instead. So I cut those flanges off and this left them a little short necessitating an extension be fabricated and welded to one the panels.
I don't think many know what tools you are using for attachment? Those "pins" are called Cleco's. I used them all the time when I used to assemble helicopter panels. They require a special set of Cleco pliers. A great addition for the guys who do sheet metal repairs. I still have these and the small clamps used with the cleco pliers. They come in handy.


 

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Discussion Starter #104
I got a new goody for the car delivered today:

I won't be ready for it for quite a long while but YearOne had a price on that was so good, I figured I better jump on it. I got it for $1895 plus $46.50 shipping and no tax. I thought they had it on sale but I'm now wondering if they had it mispriced since they raised their price on it shortly after I ordered it.

Installing the quarter panel patch panels has been pretty time consuming. Several iterations of welding and planishing. It's coming along well but still have a little more planishing left to do on the rear section.
I've been using a combination of a hammer and dolly and slapper and dolly and I needed my wife's help for some of it.

 

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Discussion Starter #105
The rear patch panel on the passenger side gave me some trouble to finish out. It sucked in on me in a couple of places and it was enough to pull in the styling crease. I had to do quite a bit of planishing and needed my wife's help by holding a dolly while inside the trunk. I overstretched a few places and needed to use my shrinking disc to shrink those spots back. We got it though and it's now pretty darn good I think and the entire passenger side quarter is complete.


This is the shrinking disc I use:


I've now moved on to working on the driver side and installed the rear patch panel.
Here's a progression of photos from fitting to finish.

First was to use some Cleco fasteners to hold the patch panel tightly in place in order to scribe a line onto the existing metal:

I used a Sharpie first then scratched that line using a utility knife. I then removed the patch panel:

I then used a cutoff tool to cut the existing panel fairly close but a little shy of my scribed line:

I then used the Roloc flap disc to carefully grind the metal back to the scribed line:

I then started tack welding in the patch panel. I first made tacks about an inch apart and then tacks in between after letting the panel cool:

At this point I ground the tacks down and did some planishing to stretch the heat shrinkage:

After more welding followed up with more planishing, here is the finished panel. It went well. I did not get any sucking in issue that I did on the other side:

 

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Discussion Starter #106
Got the front patch panel section installed on the driver side and finished off.
Between all the work I had to do with the wheelhouses and these skins, I've got a bunch of hours in repairing these wheel wells. Me and my back are glad to have this done.


The planishing part of the skin installation to stretch the heat shrinkage was certainly not easy. But, I'm very pleased with how it all came out.

 

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1968 GTO Convertible, 4-speed
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Couldn't be more impressed with your thoughtfulness, creativity, and your attention to detail. You are an excellent photographer and explain things clearly and simply while also "showing us" through the pics. Thank you for taking the time to document it all so well. Really enjoying following this thread and I'm learning a ton. Now I know exactly what to look for and where to check when the time comes on my car. Heck.. I might have to hire you to do mine next. Keep up the great work!
 

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Discussion Starter #108
Couldn't be more impressed with your thoughtfulness, creativity, and your attention to detail. You are an excellent photographer and explain things clearly and simply while also "showing us" through the pics. Thank you for taking the time to document it all so well. Really enjoying following this thread and I'm learning a ton. Now I know exactly what to look for and where to check when the time comes on my car. Heck.. I might have to hire you to do mine next. Keep up the great work!
Thanks for the compliments!
I have been kind of a photography buff since I was very young and enjoy the photo taking process. I have a dedicated camera that I use for this. They don't make the model anymore so I bought a NOS one a while back and it's still in the box unused. I also enjoy the documentation. It allows me to show off a little and to give back by sharing info that may help others. When it comes time for the engine to be assembled, I will need help from you guys here so I guess I'm paying it forward. I'm considering paying to have it assembled for me but I'll still need help with deciding about some parts for it.
 

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Discussion Starter #109
Fenders are done.

I may have shown these before but here are the previously repaired (mangled) dents. One in each fender. It looks to me like they were repaired by hammering without a dolly and by using one of those slide hammer dent pullers that created the holes. Bondo was 1/2" thick in these areas.


I used a hammer and dolly on them some before welding up all the holes then a lot more work using a slapping spoon and dolly and shrinking disc.
Here's the driver side dent completed:

P/S Fender brace repair.


This one shows the repaired dent:

Patch panel tacked in:


P/S Done:

Repaired D/S brace in the same manner as the P/S. Patch panel clamped in place for scribing a cut line.

Tacked in place:

D/S complete:
 

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Discussion Starter #110
So it's been over 2 weeks since I've posted here last. Much of that time we were in the deep freeze and I wasn't able to work on the car. I have electric heat in my shop and even though we were among the lucky ones not to lose our electricity, they were asking us to conserve as much as possible. Our city lost water and is still having issues but we are on a well so with electricity, we didn't lose water either therefore could keep things dripping to not have any frozen pipes either.

I have been back at it now and have reached 2 milestones. The first is that the car's seats are now at the upholstery shop. I've used the shop for 3 other car projects and I think they are the best of the best. First thing he is going to do is strip the seats down to the frames and send them out for blasting and powder coating. And, I've ordered Parchment covers from Ames and decided to go with the Legendary brand for him to install.

The other milestone was that I have chosen a shop to build my engine and have already taken it there. They are a racing engine shop and do all of their own machine work.
The seller of my car had most the machine work done already but I'm going to have them thoroughly check the work that has been done and finish up what hadn't. They will assemble it and run it in and put it on their dyno too. This will include the setup of the new Edelbrock fuel injection system I just bought.
They also have a guy that comes in from time-to-time that does rear end work so the owner told me to bring him my rear axle and new parts and he will get him to put that together for me.

So anyway I am quite excited that I've got the ball rolling on these things.

As far as the body, the only thing I've accomplished since my last post is removing the lead from the panel seams between the trunk lid and rear window and welding those seams up completely.

To remove the lead, I used a propane torch and a hand wire brush. I tried to heat it minimally and not fling the lead all over. I wore rubber gloves and a face mask and vacuumed it up afterwards.
Here's what they looked like after removing the lead:


I welded it up and did about 3 or 4 passes:


Smoothed out:


My plan is to blast these welds then coat with epoxy primer and then add epoxy filler to it while the primer is still early in it's re-coat window.
 

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Discussion Starter #111 (Edited)
I totally degreased the insides of the rear axle and got it blasted along with some suspension parts:


I will spray these parts with black epoxy primer same as what I did with the frame. I'm planning on getting the rear axle to the engine builder next week to have his guy set up the new gears in it.

I've got a little welding and finishing to do on the front upper control arms to repair boogers that were put in it from a previous owner getting too aggressive with a hammer when the bushings were replaced.

I recently bought some parts that will be needed for the engine builder to complete my engine.
I bought a new timing cover and harmonic balancer and painted them with Duplicolor DE1616 Pontiac blue metallic ceramic engine enamel.
Also got new Ram Air Restorations oversized ram air exhaust manifolds with the cast color ceramic coating option. The downpipes are 2 1/2" Pypes stainless and I will weld an oxygen sensor bung into one of them before taking them over to the engine builder.



I'll hang onto my ugly old log manifolds since they are original.
 

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While you are repairing your A arms there's a small modification you may want to consider. The lower arm sometimes cracks around the ball joint. The preventive fix is to weld a brace over that area.
This guy sells a kit.

 

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Moving right along nicely. I just got the call from my upholsterer who said my bucket seats are ready. Used all Legendary stuff in Parchment to change over from the original green/gold. I''ll post pictures.
 

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Discussion Starter #114
While you are repairing your A arms there's a small modification you may want to consider. The lower arm sometimes cracks around the ball joint. The preventive fix is to weld a brace over that area.
This guy sells a kit.
Thanks for the tip. I'll do some research on this.

Moving right along nicely. I just got the call from my upholsterer who said my bucket seats are ready. Used all Legendary stuff in Parchment to change over from the original green/gold. I''ll post pictures.
Thanks Jim. I'm looking forward to seeing your photos. Did you have them put new foam in those seats? If so, what brand were they?

Update:
I got my rear end painted with black epoxy primer today.



I'll let this all cure at least a couple of days before taking it to the engine builder's shop.

Also today, I primered and painted this 30 year old Radio Flyer wagon. I'm restoring it for a neighbor. I used the black epoxy and waited a couple of hours before painting it with the red single stage urethane. I had blasted this yesterday along with the other parts.
 
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Thanks for the tip. I'll do some research on this.


Thanks Jim. I'm looking forward to seeing your photos. Did you have them put new foam in those seats? If so, what brand were they?

Update:
I got my rear end painted with black epoxy primer today.



I'll let this all cure at least a couple of days before taking it to the engine builder's shop.

Also today, I primered and painted this 30 year old Radio Flyer wagon. I'm restoring it for a neighbor. I used the black epoxy and waited a couple of hours before painting it with the red single stage urethane. I had blasted this yesterday along with the other parts.

I used ACI seat foams as they are said to be the best. I'll be getting my seats on Wednesday, and I will post a few pics for you to see. Everything I got was directly from Legendary, not through one of the retailers. They have an online catalog and you can see all that is needed. My bill was just over $1,000 for the bucket seat covers, foam, installation kit, seat backs, and seat bases. Recovering both seats is $680.00. Not inexpensive by any means and with mine being a resto-mod I could have gone way cheaper buying ready to go and bolt in aftermarket seats, but I wanted to keep the interior somewhat original. I also wanted something that will wear well and not go bad in a couple years. On my door panels, I did cheapen out and go PUI as I am doing some modifications and not using 1968 arm rests and handles, and these don't get the wear seats do. The colors between the manufacturers may not be a perfect match, which I have not yet compared, but I am OK with it as metallic parchment is metallic parchment in my book and they don't lay on top of each other so as to make any difference in shades highly noticeable.
 

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I used ACI seat foams as they are said to be the best. I'll be getting my seats on Wednesday, and I will post a few pics for you to see. Everything I got was directly from Legendary, not through one of the retailers. They have an online catalog and you can see all that is needed. My bill was just over $1,000 for the bucket seat covers, foam, installation kit, seat backs, and seat bases. Recovering both seats is $680.00. Not inexpensive by any means and with mine being a resto-mod I could have gone way cheaper buying ready to go and bolt in aftermarket seats, but I wanted to keep the interior somewhat original. I also wanted something that will wear well and not go bad in a couple years. On my door panels, I did cheapen out and go PUI as I am doing some modifications and not using 1968 arm rests and handles, and these don't get the wear seats do. The colors between the manufacturers may not be a perfect match, which I have not yet compared, but I am OK with it as metallic parchment is metallic parchment in my book and they don't lay on top of each other so as to make any difference in shades highly noticeable.

OK, got my bucket seats today. I just put up a post on them here:


06 '68 Lemans Buckets.JPG
 

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Discussion Starter #117
Looks great to me Jim. Congrats.
I looked through all the photos and see that you sound very pleased. Excellent!

One worry I have that you don't is that I have headrests. Since I don't want to use headrest covers, my only choice for new headrests is black and will have to paint them. I don't think it's all that important if the plastic parts don't exactly match the seat vinyl but it is important for the headrests to match IMO. I noticed Legendary doesn't sell paint but does have a recommendation for a paint company to use.
 

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OK, got my bucket seats today. I just put up a post on them here:


View attachment 141222
Hey Jim,
How long did it take for your stuff to come from Legendary? I ordered a complete interior for my 65 in black on 2/12. Received the kits for the front and rear seats already, but no seat covers, door panels, or carpet.
 

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Discussion Starter #119
I ordered my '69 Legendary covers from Ames and got them in a week. Evidently, Ames had them on their shelf.
 

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I ordered my '69 Legendary covers from Ames and got them in a week. Evidently, Ames had them on their shelf.
I ordered my interior from Ames as well as a complete glass kit. They called me about the glass kit and stated that it would be $60 additional to box it and $225 additional for shipping(to a commercial address). Told them I didn’t have a commercial address and just deliver it to my house. I live on the main road in my subdivision and there is a constant stream of 18 wheelers and other big rigs up and down all day long. THAT was an additional $50 too, so I told them to cancel the order. She then told me that the Legendary stuff would be delivered in July so I told her to cancel that order as well. I ordered a glass kit from auto city on eBay for $700 delivered. Saved over $500 from the Ames order. Ordered directly from Legendary and got part of the order already but am waiting for the pretty stuff.
 
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