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Discussion Starter #21
Justvdetailed the rear axle.
The rear was all rebuilt and is from a 1968 GTO 4 pinion Posi with 3:55 gear ratio,
I sandblasted the axle. Drained and refilled with new gear oil and additive.
Replaced the dented rear cover with new, new brake lines, Brakes and inspection marks and decals
 

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Justvdetailed the rear axle.
The rear was all rebuilt and is from a 1968 GTO 4 pinion Posi with 3:55 gear ratio,
I sandblasted the axle. Drained and refilled with new gear oil and additive.
Replaced the dented rear cover with new, new brake lines, Brakes and inspection marks and decals

Looks great, well done with all the detail into it. If your car does not already have these, while you have the rear end out and can get to everything, I would add either the factory style reproduction upper/lower control arm braces https://www.opgi.com/gto/D250054/ or spring for a set of aftermarket braces. 1964-1967 GM A-Body Control Arm Reinforcements/Frame Braces [4029] - $129.99 : UMI Performance, Inc. The 4 speed cars had them, but it does help to add some strength to the frame mounting points if you plan on "using" the car.

https://www.gtoforum.com/f122/rear-reinforcement-braces-105514/
 

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Discussion Starter #23
A little more progress

Sandblasted the wheels over the past weekend
Applied self etch, Painted back of wheels in gray enamel, taped and sprayed with Argent silver then charcoal.
New caps and lugs
You Rally I guys have it easy..haha:smile3:
A lot more taping and masking on a Rally II
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Metal Phase

My 67 is in the body and metal phase right now.
The metal work is being done by JMCR. The shop knows Pontiacs and they have a few gold and silver awards from POIC.
The first thing that was done was fitting the doors using new door hinges before cutting out the quarters and so there is a benchmark knowing the doors now fit perfectly
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Here is the rear sheet metal removed
I have full rear quarters, inner and outer wheel houses, full 1 piece trunk floor, 2 trunk extensions, and an NOS rear tail light panel.
Still a lot more tear down to go. Hopefully new sheet metal will be fitted next week
 

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Here is the rear sheet metal removed
I have full rear quarters, inner and outer wheel houses, full 1 piece trunk floor, 2 trunk extensions, and an NOS rear tail light panel.
Still a lot more tear down to go. Hopefully new sheet metal will be fitted next week
Looking better, but it would scare the heck out of me to cut everything off and then rebuild and hope it all lines up. I would have tackled 1 side at a time to make sure I had the structural integrity left in the other body panels to keep things aligned.

Just how I would have done it, but I don't do this everyday either. :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #27
This is the only way to do it when you are replacing the wheel houses and the full trunk.
The inner wheel houses were not that great after closer inspection so they were repaired using new wheel houses. Its a big project to replace the entire inner wheel house so piecing together was the logical way to go.
Using a one piece floor pan too that goes all the way to the rear seat support. Its a nice piece and well worth the money
The fitment is pretty good too
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Had some unforeseen rust in the drivers side rocker so both the inner and outer rocker was replaced.
Now getting back to hanging the new sheet metal for final fitment
 

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Impressive build and level of detail.....Where are you located?
 

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Discussion Starter #30 (Edited)
Thanks
I am in NJ
I have a metal/body man doing the bodywork and then will hand it off to my painter. I enjoy doing all the intricate work or disassemble and restoring parts and final reassembly
 

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Discussion Starter #31
My body man has been back on it the past 2 weeks
The new sheet metal is finally going back on and looking like a car again.
Even with new sheet metal it takes time to align gaps and still make everything fit
 

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Very nice, wish i could that with my chevelle!
 

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Discussion Starter #33
All the metal work is now complete and I can finally make real progress and move forward.
The 1 piece floor is in and I decided to replace the firewall too since someone previously used a floor patch that cut into the firewall and was an amateur job at best IMG_6118.jpg IMG_6121.jpg IMG_6130.jpg IMG_6094.jpg IMG_6095.jpg IMG_6101.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #35
My chassis is now complete Frame has been sandblasted and painted with new brake and fuel lines, disc brake conversion, new ball joints, tie rods, body bushings, etc.
Just waiting on the body to be ready for paint in the next couple of months IMG_0050.jpg IMG_0052.jpg IMG_0053.jpg IMG_0056.jpg IMG_0058.jpg IMG_0085.jpg
 

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Very nice work. I was fortunate with mine and had very little rust. Can't imagine what the metal work bill would be, but you will have a very well built and solid car afterwards.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
As the bodywork continues I installed the engine and my new Gardner exhaust system.
Ready to test fire it up soon.
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Discussion Starter #39
Its been a while since I updated the work progress.
The body work has been completed. The car was put in epoxy primer then high build surfacer and blocked down 3 times so its straight as an arrow now and all the body gaps are perfect








 

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Discussion Starter #40
Trunk had been painted with Black/Aqua splatter paint. I used Zolatone on my last project but for some reason black/aqua is no longer available so I used paint from Parts Place which is actually the same as Zolatone now. Past versions of Parts Place trunk paint was water based, this is now petroleum based as Zolatone was too. It dries hard as nails if you add a hardner



 
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