Pontiac GTO Forum banner

1 - 20 of 240 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
310 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
My son bought this last July. This is the only photo of it before the tear down.

Appears only thing replaced on the interior from original was carpeting
Maybe you guys would know, was a 8 track available in 68, his car has it

Motors not original, appears to be a 69 400, wasn't looking for numbers matching GTO, he's has a budget. He sold his 05 Tacoma PU to buy this car, money left over is getting ate up quick





Well seeing how his old man is a worn out autobody guy... that would be me... we started this project last Oct in my shop at home.
Will post some more photos when I get a chance, most of the photos are on his computer, he has the day off today, celebrating is 22nd birthday:cheers

Bill
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
727 Posts
Yes, that is the proper 8 track player for a 68.
Nicely optioned car; gages, 8 track and clock.
Great score!!!
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
5,742 Posts
Nice car. Those heads and block are correct for a 'base' 69 400. Check the 4 character date code on the top rear of the block next to the distributor to get a positive ID on the model year.

Bear
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
310 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Thanks guys
Hey Bear is this the date code

When my sons brought this car home on a trailer I would call it a 30fter, well maybe more like 50. It was 3 shades of red, front sheetmetal alignment problems, paint was popping all over.
Whole car was like this scoop

Car ran and drove really nice, beside a few rust issues, all and all pretty solid, and pretty much all there, well except for about half of the bolts holding her together.






Bill
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
310 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Against my better judgement I had the fenders, hood , doors and trunk sand blasted. The shop I had used in the past was moving and they wouldn't be up and running for a month. Found some else to blast the parts, they talked me into sand blasting, guaranteed they wouldn't warp it. Well quess what.

Hood was no big loss, had some rust and someone at one time took a pick hammer to it

Trunk upset me tho, trunk had no rust at all and one small ding in the center

fenders and doors were fine, no warping there, just glad I didn't send them the whole body, can only imagine what roof would of looked like.
With a lot of work was able to save the trunk, opted for a reproduction hood, pretty happy with the one we got, took a lot of blocking and filling but all in all not bad.
Got a question on the hood, anyone know the proper hole size for the hood tach, been putting off cutting the hole for some time now. Old hood the hole is like 3 3/4", not a factory cut, seems way too big

Bill
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
310 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Both fenders had some rust in the same spot

both qtrs had some rust in the wheel arch, couldn't see it till mouldings came off

Back window not bad,

Rad support corrosion from battery, note location of l rail to support


Shot blasted parts with Glasurit epoxy primer, spot and miged in patch panels on fenders. Front end pasted at least once, Fenders off a Lemans I guess, welded up the holes. L fender also at front was rolled back inside and was filled with about 1" of mud, we drilled out the spot welds to remove inr brace for straightening of fender and brace



At this point we had rad support over as far as it would go to the left and nothing was even close to lining up...aargh... never enjoyed frame work
Bill
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
574 Posts
Looking good. Always more to do..... Been there doing that..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
310 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Time to get the car to town. Decided to kill 2 birds with 1 stone.
Had car towed to local garage to have engine checked out before pulling of running gear. She supposedly hadn't been driven much the last 10 or 15 years, mostly in storage,had a few oil leaks here and there, those needed to be addressed plus a couple other issues.
Me and oil, grease don't get along, done enough mechanical stuff to consider my self dangerous, decided to let someone else take care of that.
Garage pulled engine and tranny and towed it to my shop.
Like I said never really enjoyed frame work but have to admit it was kinda fun doing it again, Had to ask my guys how to turn the machine on,we got rack 5 years ago and I personally had never run it. Shop was closed for New years, perfect time to get her in and out. Heck of a way to spend the holiday tho. Frame measured out good except for the front, she was swung to the right just enough to make for poor fit of sheetmetal. Took me longer to set the car up on the rack and figure out the frame machine then it did to fix the frame. Measured the frame old school, hanging gauges and tram gauge, had frame measurements for car in a old crash book




Good to go, time to get her back home
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Bill the car looks great. Hope you and your son are having a good time building one of these great machines. Matter of fact im going to get a 69 gto to restore with me and my dad.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
310 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Bill the car looks great. Hope you and your son are having a good time building one of these great machines. Matter of fact im going to get a 69 gto to restore with me and my dad.
Thanks
It has been fun....well at least most the time.
Son comes over every night after work, mom feeds him first, then we work on it for a couple or 3 hours.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
310 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
We decided to tackle front bumper first and see if it was saveable.
Bumper was bent, didn't fit hood or the crown on the fenders, was bent down in the middle. It was previously repaired with bondo and was all cracked up. We sanded all the paint and mud off it, straighten it out the best we could by tying it down to the frame rack and using portapower and chains, they bend pretty easy we found out. After stripping the bumper applied primer with flex additive.



The pink stuff is a repair product made for flexable bumpers.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
310 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
For the time being we quit any more work to the bumper, we wanted to get going on the fenders and door, after they were just about ready for prime we could reinstall bumper and address any more adding or subtracting to the bumper and any addtionial work needed to the front fenders were they line up to bumper.
Applied all metal to the welded seams of patch panels and to the welded up holes. Had to pull my old body hammers , shrinking dolly and metal files out of the moth balls. Got to most the dents from back side of panels, on few we used stud gun. Mask taped edge of doors with notes and measurement of gap issues because doors were going on stands for repairs.


Started razor blading topcoat off the rear. Car had been stripped the last time it was painted, single stage paint over what I think was lacquer primer straight to the metal. Thinking maybe that was why paint was blistering over the whole car, more of issue with not letting primer cure enough before paint, paint was popping on the hood tach also which has a plastic cover
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
310 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
Can you guess how I got my nickname;)



Got doors and fenders in primer
After razor blading paint from body, DA'd the primer off

Time to pull glass
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
574 Posts
Looking great... I'm glad I'm past that point. Looking to spray mine saturday morn.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
310 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
Back window shelve little worse then we first thougt. Looked online and it appears no one reproduces the inside metal package tray? One of the priors had treated it some years ago, doesn't look like it is getting any worse.

Applied one coat of wash,etching primer then one coat of epoxy primer.


Started cutting into the rust areas little at a time to see how bad it was,kept chasing it on the wheel arches on qtrs. Was able to look from inside trunk at outer rear window shelve

Decided at this point I needed a lift. I knew my knees wouldn't take kindly to this part of the rebuild, Back to town.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
310 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
Looking at rear shelve from underneath we decided to order a repro panel and use only what we needed, wanted to stay away from factory seams if possible, cut out the rusted areas and treated bare metal underneath with zero-rust

Decided to replace both R & L qtr wheel arches and outer wheel houses.Had ordered a l qtr skin and wheel house from one of our aftermarket suppliers to see what they looked like. Company we ordered from sells them to us at so called wholesale and no shipping charges, figured what the heck, take a look any way if not happy could always return em. The repro qtr skins were pretty rough, decided to use the wheel house and take just a few inches around the arch

Cut out wheel house about 1 1/2 " from factory seam, used left over piece of wheel house to make a sleeve to weld to. Wanted to try welding panel in with our spot welder...another piece of eguipment I bought 5 years ago and had to ask my guys how to turn it on:confused

Made sleeve for qtr panel out of left over skin
 
1 - 20 of 240 Posts
Top