[Grandpx]

I been looking at buying a 05' GTO impluse blue w/ black interior. I live in Vermont in a small town. I have searched the pontaic web site and i only found a midnight blue GTO and they say they do not have it yet but will be getting it. They are not sure when. So i go to a dealer in New Hampshire that has a 04' GTO impluse blue just to look to see if the color is what i like. They say that they can get a 05' for me from Illionis I think thats the place? Keep in mine i have a 98' Grandpx GTP with 46k and still owe 3,500. I just but it in a magzine that covers 5 states for 8,500. For two weeks. So here is what they gave for a Quote:
34,295 GTO
6,500 My car
2,000 Rebate
3,000 Cash
1,389 Extend Warranty

They want me to pay the 3,500 to pay off my car. They want me to pay the sale tax of 1,547.70 6% in vermont. They said that they could add it in to my Payment. I would get a loan for 24,339.00 @ 72 months @5.14% so that would give me a $418.00 month payment. So should i wait to see if my car Sells? Or wait for better Rebate? Or Try to get a better deal? Or just go get it now? NEED HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[Punchy]

Keep looking around, doesn`t sound tremendous to me. I would advocate skipping extended warranty and buy it from Fitchner (see corvetteforum).They can do better on interest rate too. Not much help on your trade though you are still pretty deep in that.There is a dealer in Carolinas here with about 12 GTO`s punch 28327 into gm buypower. Good luck.
Mike

 

[fergyflyer]

I been looking at buying a 05' GTO impluse blue w/ black interior. I live in Vermont in a small town. I have searched the pontaic web site and i only found a midnight blue GTO and they say they do not have it yet but will be getting it. They are not sure when. So i go to a dealer in New Hampshire that has a 04' GTO impluse blue just to look to see if the color is what i like. They say that they can get a 05' for me from Illionis I think thats the place? Keep in mine i have a 98' Grandpx GTP with 46k and still owe 3,500. I just but it in a magzine that covers 5 states for 8,500. For two weeks. So here is what they gave for a Quote:
34,295 GTO
6,500 My car
2,000 Rebate
3,000 Cash
1,389 Extend Warranty

They want me to pay the 3,500 to pay off my car. They want me to pay the sale tax of 1,547.70 6% in vermont. They said that they could add it in to my Payment. I would get a loan for 24,339.00 @ 72 months @5.14% so that would give me a $418.00 month payment. So should i wait to see if my car Sells? Or wait for better Rebate? Or Try to get a better deal? Or just go get it now? NEED HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Something for you to think about. The dealer will probably discount the GTO 2000, definately 1500. Using the 1500 mark, they are really giving you 5000 for your GTP. You are saving the tax for the amount of the trade-in which is 6% of 5000 or 300. So to break-even you need to get 5300. Looking at Kelly Blue Book I'm coming up with 5000 trade for your car, so that means they are treating you right, but probably have another 500+ that they can move. Kbb private party retail is 6600, at 8500 you are probably a little high and may end up sitting on the car for a bit.
If you could get another 500 out of the dealer, then by selling outright and getting 6600, you would only save 770. For that 770 you would have to deal with people saying they were coming to drive the car and not showing. People looking but not buying, and all the hasles of selling a car. Plus what if 2 weeks after you sell the car the engine blows, you know they are coming back to you.
I'd try to get the warranty included for free, their cost is less than 1300, so they would be giving up less and you would get more. Then trade the car and get the GTO now. 2 weeks from now you may have to wait for a month or more to get a car. If you've sold the GTP what will you drive?

 

[Pvt. Joker]

put your car on autotrader...it only costs like $40. My wrx sold in a month after listing it on autotrader. it's only a $40 risk, you have nothing else to lose. You could get a few extra thousand over what the dealer would give you on a trade

 

[Tom]

just put our aurora on autotrader. 64 for an until it sells ad. i plan on getting a rendezvous towards the end of june. it it sells....

the problem with a five year loan is you will be upside down again in three years. look into leasing. the great equity argument doesnt hold water, you are getting a whopping 1500 in equity, i bet it would have cost less for you to lease a nice accord than the old pontiac.

 

[b_a_betterperson]

All you need to know is three things:

1. The cost of the new car.

Forget about rebates and all that other crap. Just go for the throat and get the lowest possible price -- then have the incentives thrown on top. Know what the invoice price for the car is and know what you want to pay.

To get an idea of the real market price -- check into forums like these and see what people are paying. Take the super wacky low numbers with a grain of salt -- as somebody might be BSing you. That said, if you consistently see people getting sub-invoice numbers before incentives -- there's your bogey to hit.

NEVER talk payments with a dealer -- because you're playing into their hands. If you want to pay $400 a month -- they'll do something like propose a 7 year loan with an 8% rate -- and some sucker will bite because it's at the amount they want to spend per month. Just get your best deal -- because the payments will work themselves out.

2. The sale price of your used car.

Your selling it is the only way to get top dollar. Otherwise, look up the Kelley Blue Book number and get as much as you can. Always be ready to walk away from a deal unless you're totally blown away at how good the numbers are.

3. The cost of money.

You can't beat GMAC when they're doing stuff like throwing 0% dough at you plus a $1000 GMAC incentive. Don't think they're doing that right now. So go to http://www.peoplefirst.com and see what their rates are. They are consistently among the best in terms of low cost loans -- although Capital One recently bought them and might have screwed them up.

Bottom line? Put your car up for sale on Auto Trader. Get a good price for it. Once you get that note off your books, look up the invoice price for a GTO at kbb.com -- and find out what the vehicle sale and finance incentives are at Pontiac.com. If GMAC isn't offering insane deals, go to peoplefirst.com and get qualified for a loan. Now you're ready to go shopping.

That said, don't be a dope and start driving off to dealerships. Just search for inventory at pontiac.com and start making phone calls. Ask for a sales manager. Just say, I see you have an Impulse Blue GTO with VIN xxxx -- what is your best price? I'm prequalified and ready to conclude the transaction by phone and FedEx today.

Do that with 5 or 6 stores and either:

1. Buy from the dealer with the best price (with a contingency that you have the right to refuse the vehicle after inspecting it for damage or unusually high miles for a new car).

2. Say to heck with it and either buy something else or just wait.

It's a car. They can always make more. And forget the extended warranty, interior treatment package, permashield treatment, gold package, and, especially, any wheel and tire package the dealer puts on -- because it's all overpriced junk.

As for the types of dealers to target -- a big myth is that the little Mom and Pop dealer with a building that has been paid off for years offer the best deals. They don't. They can afford to hang onto inventory and swing for fences on every deal. The places that are good to shop around at are stores owned by Sonic, United Auto and AutoNation -- right before the end of month -- particularly at the end of March, June, September and December. These publicly traded companies HAVE to flip inventory -- and they have no problem dumping a GTO, which they consider slow sellers.

Good luck. Be patient. There's only one more important purchase than a car -- and that's a house. So take your time and do the job right.

 

[tump]

I am a Virginia Dealer. Here is a secret there is something called "Hold Back" that is money the dealer gets when we sell a car. It can be anywhere form around a grand to 10 grand and can be shared with the buyer depending on the vehicle..trucks usually are the higher amount. Do alot of research before you buy an you can save a lot of money. You may have to call/drive to a larger dealership and talk to the Sales Manager. I am lookin at getting a GTO or Corvette for my wife and am checking the forums for problems and saw your post.

 

[6QTS11OZ]

This is based on my own opinion so hopefully no one will get offended.

The deciding factor in you owning a GTO is how much are you willing to purchase the car for. No matter what advice you get here you have to be comfortable and okay with your purchase and new payments. Someone making $80,000 a year may not be too concern about paying $35,000 for a car as someone who makes $40,000 a year. Yeah the advice is good but it comes down to what you're willing to fork out every month. So first figure out what you can afford for payments. Make sure you let the dealer know what that is and don't veer to far away from it. I normally give myself an extra $25 a month cushion above my (bluff) monthly payment. Then determine how much you can afford to put down whether it's a trade in, cash or both. Never let the dealer know how much you're putting down until you've got the price of the car where you want it. That way you can use that as a buffer to lower you car payment even more or keep some of that cash in your pocket. Once you get the price of the car to the price you can afford, let the salesperson sweat a little before you say, "YES". Then drop the trade in/cash on them and start working on your payment goal. If your trade in/cash doesn't get you there start haggling on lowering the price of the car some more. What do you have to lose? When you're ready then you buy the car.

This is how I bought my car:

I told the salesperson that I wanted to pay below $35,000 out the door for the car. Was this a good price...I don't know but this is what I could afford to pay for the car. After lower the price a few time they're "final" price out the door was $35,200. I said no. Then I inquired about the $500 military discount eventhough I am a Government contractor. I was told the discount was for active duty and reserves only. Then I told them that I was looking to put $20,000 down but I still wanted to pay below $35,000. Then all of a sudden there was a loophole in the military discount that allowed them to give it to me because I worked for the Department of Defense. AMAZING! Now the price out the door was $34,700 out the door. My goal was reached. My payment was never mentioned because I knew I wanted to pay under $200 a month and with $20,000 down I was within range depending on my interest rate. After a credit check, I had the option to pay 0% for 3 years, 2.9% for 4 years or 3.9% for 5 years. I chose the 5 year plan. I gave them $24,700 down and my payments are $183 a month. Final goal met. Going to the 5 year term will increase my finance loan amount of $10,000 by $1100 but I have the option to pay more each month to lower that amount.

With that siad... I hope you get the car. You won't be disappointed. GOOD LUCK!