New Z06 in My Town
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G
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·Hmmm, good question, allow me to answer it.
Z06 puts down @ 430-440 at the tires, and runs a 11.7-12.0 @ 120-122.
GTO puts down @ 340-350 at the tires, and runs a 13.2-13.4 @ 106-108.
a 150 shot would do it
a blower would do it
a converter, sticky tire, full exhaust and a cam would do it
a radical heads/cam package would do it
in other words, about another 150 horsepower would put you on the same playing field.
Z06 puts down @ 430-440 at the tires, and runs a 11.7-12.0 @ 120-122.
GTO puts down @ 340-350 at the tires, and runs a 13.2-13.4 @ 106-108.
a 150 shot would do it
a blower would do it
a converter, sticky tire, full exhaust and a cam would do it
a radical heads/cam package would do it
in other words, about another 150 horsepower would put you on the same playing field.
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Yeah Mike was thinkin' 2005. I agree that it'd take at least 500 whp to hang with a Z06. Heads/Cam/Intake/LT's on an LS1 can get you between 420 ad 440, then a 100 shot would make a Z06 pretty easy to handle. That is until the Z06 spends $1700 on LT's and a cam and puts down 525+. It's gonna be hard to hang with a car with 81 more ci and that is 600 pounds lighter.
G
Guest
·supercharge a LS2 ... you will get anywhere from 500-530 HP ..then u got a race... :willy: 
arty:
arty:Thanks guys, i was thinking, a head and cam package, converter, full exhaust, programmer, and intake. then a 75 shot. Is my engine/ transmission equipped to handle that kinda power??? Unless i bet the Z06 for 5,000 dollars and could buy a new engine/ trans. it might not be worth it.
Thanks
Blake
Thanks
Blake
G
Guest
·First off, a head and cam package will raise your compression to at least 11.5:1 which is way too high to spray on using your stock pistons. heads/cam, or nitrous, cant use both, has to be one or the other. Unless you do a rebuild and put in forged pistons.
Secondly, when doing that kind of work, you would need a FULL tune, not a band-aid fix from a programmer.
Lastly, your intake is fine for up to 600hp, after that you can go with the FAST intake.
You stand a better chance of beating a Z06 on traction aside from horsepower. For example, he runs high 11's to low 12's at well into the 120 range. Whereas you can get the same ET or better based on traction but only have a trap speed of 110-112. So at the track, your "quicker" but on the street he would be "faster".
Secondly, when doing that kind of work, you would need a FULL tune, not a band-aid fix from a programmer.
Lastly, your intake is fine for up to 600hp, after that you can go with the FAST intake.
You stand a better chance of beating a Z06 on traction aside from horsepower. For example, he runs high 11's to low 12's at well into the 120 range. Whereas you can get the same ET or better based on traction but only have a trap speed of 110-112. So at the track, your "quicker" but on the street he would be "faster".
G
Guest
·I dont know why, but I keep doing that to poor Blake. I dont mean to but dangit, I keep on forgettin!slonlo_350 said:
damn old age!
the head and cam pkg is the way to go!!! it wont increass your compression ratio,{in fact you can lower it, buy getting a larger cc chamber} and get a converter that works with your new cam choice,if you increese the line pressure in the trans, it will help it from slipping, with your new found hp...and if that aint enough ?? you could spray it...hopfully the street tires will prevent you from breaking.. as they should break traction before someting breaks???? note: i said SHOULD.. there is no guarentee when you add that kind of exta hp, so dont be surprized if you smoke a u joint or a ring gear cause that stuff can happen.... :cheers04BlkGto said:
G
Guest
·Before we mislead blake, when you buy heads, they will ask you what your intended use is for them. Whether its forced induction, nitrous or naturally aspirated. This is very important as if your forced or nitrous, your compression ratio will be lowered to compensate the added pressure. BUT if you are running NA, then it increases to get the additional power. Compression is what makes power with smaller cubic inches. You cant have a 9:1 350 making 600hp but you CAN have a 9:1 540 big block making 600hp.
As for traction, here is what -I- think you should build, and its fairly cheap. Meaning under $10,000 with labor.
Heads from the LS6
Cartek camshaft
Long tube headers
Catback WITH mufflers
3600 stall converter with shift kit using 3 washers
Upgraded half shafts and output shafts
Drag Radials
Custom dyno tuning
You will have @ 450-480 hp, about 400 will hit the pavement, and you will drop an honest 1.5 seconds from your ET, all day, every day, any day.
As for traction, here is what -I- think you should build, and its fairly cheap. Meaning under $10,000 with labor.
Heads from the LS6
Cartek camshaft
Long tube headers
Catback WITH mufflers
3600 stall converter with shift kit using 3 washers
Upgraded half shafts and output shafts
Drag Radials
Custom dyno tuning
You will have @ 450-480 hp, about 400 will hit the pavement, and you will drop an honest 1.5 seconds from your ET, all day, every day, any day.
slp uses AFR heads..they have 65 cc chambers,so C/R is perfectly fine...they get the hp from higher flowing heads and increased volocity...and different cam profile, i belive they are 50 state legal...the other companys find hp the same way...added compression does however increase hp but the knock senser on owr cars will retard timing so your hp gains will be usless if compression is increased too much ,belive me.. the companys that mill these heads take that into concideration....as for bolting a set of ls2 heads on ls1's i think they will fit but your going to have some issues with sensors positions that are changed in the ls2 heads??? :cheers
G
Guest
·with a tuning, all that is taken care of. you never want to just bolt a set of heads and cam in a car without a tune. no no no no no.
G
Guest
·taking care of knock, higher compression, timing issues, all of that is resolved for a smooth idle and daily driveability with a tune. I have seen a 13:1 355 idle as smooth as stock.
the knock sensor retards timing by "hearing" dentonation,that shouldnt be messed with, or disabiled... allthough i have hear of some computer gurus messin with it.. because a soilid lifter, full race motor, {with modified factory computer operation in a closed loop mode} making more valve train"noise" and trigger the sensor by mistake....but that would have nothing to do with any street aplication...but fuel maps and timing curves,pluse width,speedo,rev limit,shift points,and that studid TQ management,and A/F ratios, is what tuners manipulate to get hp..... :cheers
G
Guest
·sounds like we both agree and are just getting the particulars mixed up.
back to the original question.
get heads/cam, converter, full exhaust, A TUNE, drag radials, and cross your fingers.
back to the original question.
get heads/cam, converter, full exhaust, A TUNE, drag radials, and cross your fingers.
The first two might put you at power parity with a new Z06.big_mike said:
The last two will not get you the 150hp and low end torque you'd need to post up hp numbers with the Z.
You'll also need to lose about 700 pounds of ugy fat...I mean your car will need to lose about 700 pounds
and buy appropriate tires if you want to have any chance at all of beating a Z06.I.e. you can't get there from here.
Just don't run for pinks.... :thumbs:big_mike said:
slow
G
Guest
·if he can pull a GOOD short time, say 1.5 - 1.6, that will catch the Z06 driver off guard and he wont be able to reel him back in. I dont think he needs to lose 700lbs, just needs to add more power. But by all means I would stay away from the nitrous.
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