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First, I'm glad to be back. I see in my profile that I haven't posted since 2012. Since then I've been hanging out at transamcountry.com, and finished a 78TA. But now I'm back to a Lemans. I can't wait to start asking you a bunch of questions. But first the car: Very solid CA car. Just some surface rust in trunk and under back window, everything else is really solid. Original 326 and 2 speed auto. 1 poor repaint at least 30 years ago. I goes down the road really nice as is. 3.23 open rear. I plan to keep it a lemans and keep the 326 at least for now. I need to pull the motor and inspect it and reseal it. And, I would like to replace the tranny with a 3 speed auto or maybe 4 speed auto. And I would like to find a nice posi.
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NICE! Looks like a good foundation and very complete.
Love the wood-grain dash used with '67 Lemans floor shift console option, wish they would have offered it on '66 Lemans'.
Best of luck.
Cheers.
 

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I've read that a TH350 is almost a direct bolt-in for the ST-300. If it runs & drives OK now, I'd consider swapping the trans when you install your bigger engine that you'll probably want. Just saves some work. No fun pulling & installing a trans.

Posi units & gears are still sold for the 8.2" BOP rear. Obviously, if you plan on a big power 455 later on, it would be better to upgrade to a stronger rear end. I had a 455 bracket engine break an 8.2. But, that was with slicks, at the track. So, if you never plan to have big torque and sticky tires, the 8.2 will do.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks to all. On this one I think I'm just going to stay with the little 326. I plan to pull it and reseal it (it leaks pretty bad and probably needs a new rear main seal) and see how it looks. It was rebuilt .030 over 20 years and 20K miles ago locally and I have all the receipts from that. It should still be within spec but I'll check it out. I think all I need for the turbo 350 swap will be a kick down cable.
 

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Great looking project.
I wouldn't do too much to it but I agree maybe a trans upgrade would make the car a better driver.
I would clean and refinish certain parts that are easy to remove and install just to freshen the car up but its more of an original car then a restored car at this point and they are always nicer in my opinion.
Good luck!
 

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First, I'm glad to be back. I see in my profile that I haven't posted since 2012. Since then I've been hanging out at transamcountry.com, and finished a 78TA. But now I'm back to a Lemans. I can't wait to start asking you a bunch of questions. But first the car: Very solid CA car. Just some surface rust in trunk and under back window, everything else is really solid. Original 326 and 2 speed auto. 1 poor repaint at least 30 years ago. I goes down the road really nice as is. 3.23 open rear. I plan to keep it a lemans and keep the 326 at least for now. I need to pull the motor and inspect it and reseal it. And, I would like to replace the tranny with a 3 speed auto or maybe 4 speed auto. And I would like to find a nice posi. View attachment 132916 View attachment 132917 View attachment 132918 View attachment 132916 View attachment 132917 View attachment 132918
looks good, nice color. I was going to do the same with my 65,i bought it a little over 20 years ago, it originally had a 326 w/2 spd. powerglide. when i bought it it had no motor & a clutch & brake pedal set up, so i went with it, i found a 71 455, bought a new m-22 & i had a 65 gto 3:55 rear. I did most of my parts shopping years ago. now finding parts for these cars for a fair price is very rare. when it comes to body parts most aftermarket parts suck, you always have to modify them to make them fit. But all in all it's fun, they're great cars. good luck with it.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
gtomike455, it's been a while since I've seen this post and your reply made me think I could add a couple progress pictures. All new body bushings, new control arms and bushings front and rear, new springs front and rear. New posi unit,(was one wheel spin) cleaned up engine bay. Resealled engine gaskets, added a mild cam. New HEI (cheap Chinese). ST 300 out, turbo 350C in. The turbo 350C has a locking converter....trying something new there, we'll see how that goes (cheap, used off CL from what seemed like a legit dude). New ball joints. Hope to get a new gas tank in today. It's not running yet. This thing blows me away how solid it is. No rust issues anywhere. I know the blue paint isn't the right color but it's what I had left over from another project (78 TA). If I ever drop a 400 or 455 in it I'll make sure its correct. And yes it came with air shocks and I'm keeping them in there for now. Way, way, way down the road, I'd like to get the AC to work, it's all there.



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Looks great. The TH350 should be a nice upgrade and give a little more pep due to the gear ratio's.

Air shocks are good. Just don't get too crazy in jacking up the rear with them. Where they bolt up at the top is not the strongest of points and you don't want to be lifting the back of the car to high with all its weight focused on that spot. If you don't want to buy springs right now, maybe a pair of 1 1/2" spacer to go under the rear springs along with the air shocks. They do come in shorter and taller versions depending on manufacturer/supplier.

 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks. I've looked at those spacers before. Do you drill a hole through them and secure them to the spring shelf on the axle? Seems like you'd need to do that to keep them from moving around.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
This turbo 350 had a universal mounting pattern ( BOP or Chevy ) I think that made it fit a little tighter around the firewall. Or, it was my imagination.
 

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Thanks. I've looked at those spacers before. Do you drill a hole through them and secure them to the spring shelf on the axle? Seems like you'd need to do that to keep them from moving around.
The spacer should fit right on top of the spring perch just like the open end of the spring does. Then the spring sits on top of the spacer just as stock. Personally, I would feel more comfortable with drilling a hole down the center of the spacer, inserting a long bolt or threaded rod, and a cross bar of flat steel under the rear's spring perch and then bolt it down.

I don't think the spring will pop off the top of the spacer unless you pulled a "Duke's of Hazzard" jump and got airborn in which case the shocks should still limit the travel and keep things together - just like when you jack up the rear end using the bumper jack to change a rear tire. But if it made you feel better, you can always put another cross bar on top that extends over the spring coil.
 
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