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Discussion Starter #1
turns over hard, tested the battery @ 12.4v
there is fuel
there is spark
Engine was professionally built only 4 months ago so I know I have compression.
Drove it last weekend ran great
Gas is one week old
Took plugs out (wet) cleaned them, checked gaps, left out overnight in case of flloding
Took a wild stab at HEI coil, so I replaced it

any thoughts?
 

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First guess is a flooding problem. I would also check your timing as it could be a combination problem - timing set wrong makes the engine turn over harder coupled with a flooding condition that can cause a no start problem.
 

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Gawd, I hate that term "turns over". To some people it means starts, to some it means cranks. And I took "turns over hard" to be cranking well. PJ took it to mean cranking against resistance.

Anyway, mine starts hard too, especially in cold weather like we have in NEPA these days. Mine floods almost instantly, and I know I need to adjust the carb, I just haven't had the time yet! If I need to get it running today I would spray a bit of ether in the carb. Yes, more fuel in an already flooded engine makes no sense. But ether is a lot more volatile than cold gas. BE VERY CAREFUL IF YOU TAKE THIS ADVICE!!!
 

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turns over hard, tested the battery @ 12.4v
there is fuel
there is spark
Engine was professionally built only 4 months ago so I know I have compression.
Drove it last weekend ran great
Gas is one week old
Took plugs out (wet) cleaned them, checked gaps, left out overnight in case of flloding
Took a wild stab at HEI coil, so I replaced it

any thoughts?
You say you have fuel,...Do you physically see the spray in the Carb ?...If not, obviously not flooding...If no fuel into the carb, check your inline fuel filters, as I had a similar problem at one time...The ether trick should tell the story if this is the case !...Good Luck, ...J
 

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once you have verified fuel in fuel bowl, and squirter works in carb. You have to make sure spark is strong enough to jump the gap,...on these quick tests you see an external spark but that does not mean it will jump the gap under compression.

a battery at 12.4 volts is at 75% capacity and can produce a weak spark. If you have a spark tester, you can see this by running it out to the gap of say 40.....spark will not jump,..it will at closer gap.

So verify fuel and recharge that battery then retry.......
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I tested the Voltage at the distributor plug @12.1 but while cranking it dropped down to 8.5. So it was giving me a spark but not enough of one. Replaced the ignition module and she fired right up.
Also just realized that I might have not been firing the whole fuel charge while the module was weak, so maybe more power on the next outing.
Will continue to use the term “turns over” as much as possible now.
 

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I tested the Voltage at the distributor plug @12.1 but while cranking it dropped down to 8.5. So it was giving me a spark but not enough of one. Replaced the ignition module and she fired right up.
Also just realized that I might have not been firing the whole fuel charge while the module was weak, so maybe more power on the next outing.
Will continue to use the term “turns over” as much as possible now.
I just posted this due to your HEI findings and want to add it here to round up the post should another run into a similar experience. http://www.gtoforum.com/f50/hei-distributor-diagnosis-procedure-126457/
 

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Discussion Starter #11
fuel smell

due to the constant cranking without firing while diagnosing the ignition module I have a fuel smell to my oil. Unfortunately I just put new brad penn 10-40 in, should I just bite the bullet and do a drain and fill? TIA
 
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